Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[haydonny]

I used AWG38 and it works fine.. so if you have nothing else, give it a try.

You used 38 awg going to chip and also to the caps?

 

[swordeye2]

Why you using rcm? That is the wrong place to look at.

When the chip boots, it boots to RCM.

Post automatically merged: Apr 15, 2023

I used AWG38 and it works fine.. so if you have nothing else, give it a try.

Does the chip do anything when you connect it to PC? And you did flash the firmware to the chip first, right?

I followed the instructions and successfully installed in some lites, but this one lite goes boot then pink then out of whim i try to connect it in my pc to find out it goes rcm. I flashed it properly. I even changed rp2040 i thought it is just faulty.

 

[Hayato213]

When the chip boots, it boots to RCM.

LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success

Check your CMD/CLK since you got purple light.

 

[swordeye2]

LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success

Check your CMD/CLK since you got purple light.

I did clean flux again, change picofly, check shorts and continuity but it still acts up.

 

[Hayato213]

I did clean flux again, change picofly, check shorts and continuity but it still acts up.

If you got purple light that is what you suppose to check.

PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK

 

[swordeye2]

If you got purple light that is what you suppose to check.

PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK

I did and still acts up like that. As effect, the NSW proceeds to RCM instead.

 

[Hayato213]

I did and still acts up like that. As effect, the NSW proceeds to RCM instead.

show your soldering.

 

[swordeye2]

show your soldering.

i'll send picture tomorrow. it's 1 am here. thank you for your advice!

 

[neo_33]

I used AWG38 and it works fine.. so if you have nothing else, give it a try.

Does the chip do anything when you connect it to PC? And you did flash the firmware to the chip first, right?

I did flash the firmware first. I guess something happened when I removed the USB connector and buttons. I have a spare one and it works fine, so all good.

 

[FreeLander]

I used AWG38 and it works fine.. so if you have nothing else, give it a try.

Does the chip do anything when you connect it to PC? And you did flash the firmware to the chip first, right?

Really? 38awg? This is 0.1mm right? Worked fine that thin?

 

[deeps]

What wire did you use for single mosfet install? I have 36 awg but thinking thats too thin. Do you have a pic of your mosfet install?

I forgot to take a pic of the mosfet install before closing it up, sorry. However it looks very much like the one rehius posted, except mine is messier: https://gbatemp.net/attachments/rpico-jpg.364817/
I accidentally used different wires for the points - 30AWG for the S/ground wire, 34AWG for the D/cap wire and 34AWG for the G/cpu wire.

 

[Phantomas77]

- There is no way to fit a 2040-zero under the full body heat shield, even if connector and buttons are removed. If someone claims they did then their heat shield is bent to hell and will cause a bulge in the housing. A hole in the shield is necessary.

What Switch version do you have?

After removing USB + 2 buttons on RP2040-zero, regarding the fit I can confirm:
- No problems in OLED at all, smooth closure.
- Bump on the shield for Lite, probably will cut a hole.

There's an extra 500-1000 microns that can be taken out by removing the LDO on the back of Pi.

 

[deeps]

What Switch version do you have?

After removing USB + 2 buttons on RP2040-zero, regarding the fit I can confirm:
- No problems in OLED at all, smooth closure.
- Bump on the shield for Lite, probably will cut a hole.

There's an extra 500-1000 microns that can be taken out by removing the LDO on the back of Pi.

This was a lite. the shield sits about 0.3mm above the ram shield. the zero is about 2.5mm in height. Does not compute.

 

[FreeLander]

If you got purple light that is what you suppose to check.

PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK

Hi.
One OLED I worked on kept giving me purple. I quadrupled my CMD and CLK. Both were good. I decided to re-solder everything and noticed that the APU caps were not soldered correctly into the flex cable. I resoldered them and it worked. I kept wondering why was it not giving a Cyan color? Since that's the CPU color. Any idea?

 

[realtimesave]

do you guys think this is going to work? I'm waiting for a modchip to come in the mail to use with this soldering setup:

 

[Hayato213]

Hi.
One OLED I worked on kept giving me purple. I quadrupled my CMD and CLK. Both were good. I decided to re-solder everything and noticed that the APU caps were not soldered correctly into the flex cable. I resoldered them and it worked. I kept wondering why was it not giving a Cyan color? Since that's the CPU color. Any idea?

Im not sure if it apply to flex cable as it apply to mosfet.

 

[Arakon]

You used 38 awg going to chip and also to the caps?

Really? 38awg? This is 0.1mm right? Worked fine that thin?

Yup, boots within 2 seconds (Erista patched).
Only place I used AWG30 is the power and GND to the RP2040.

 

[Frullone]

do you guys think this is going to work? I'm waiting for a modchip to come in the mail to use with this soldering setup:

You forgot to solder the two anchors

 

[handsom_tomato]

No. See attached pic - i've placed a ruler on top of the side supports, which is where the back of the case rests so it is the same height as the case. there's a rp2040-zero with connectors removed (under the kapton tape) and a rp2040 unmodified in the pic. As you can see the USB connector is far too tall.

I reinstalled Pikofly taking inspiration from this person's idea. I cut off the shield near the RAM and found that Pikofly sinks slightly deeper! However, as a result of my own attempt, it protruded about 1mm beyond the outer metal plate. But when I tightened the final back cover, I didn't notice any issues due to the cover originally being warped. The perfect amount of space felt like it was waiting for Pikofly, lol.

If you can remove the APU shield and the metal plate on top of it properly, you can install it without any issues.

 

[QuiTim]

do you guys think this is going to work? I'm waiting for a modchip to come in the mail to use with this soldering setup:

As @Frullone pointed out, you need to solder those 2 anchor points otherwise one small pull on that flex cable and you will rip the caps off.