Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[BlueBeans]

usually because of not enough resistance on dat0+cmd. what resistor setup do you have?

I’ve always used the 47ohm for all 3.

 

[deeps]

I’ve always used the 47ohm for all 3.

try 100/100/47 for this one then

 

[BlueBeans]

try 100/100/47 for this one then

I don’t own any 100ohm. Could I double up the 47? I know it’s not quite 100 but do you think it’ll work? Do you always do that set up?

Post automatically merged: Nov 14, 2023

I don’t own any 100ohm. Could I double up the 47? I know it’s not quite 100 but do you think it’ll work? Do you always do that set up?

I can order some and they’ll be here tomorrow

 

[deeps]

I don’t own any 100ohm. Could I double up the 47? I know it’s not quite 100 but do you think it’ll work? Do you always do that set up?

Post automatically merged: Nov 14, 2023

I can order some and they’ll be here tomorrow

double 47 works too. i do 100/100/47 on all my switches.

 

[BlueBeans]

double 47 works too. i do 100/100/47 on all my switches.

Ok. I’ll just order a bunch of the 100 and double up on the other 2 for now. Could there be any other issue or should this fix it?

 

[deeps]

Ok. I’ll just order a bunch of the 100 and double up on the other 2 for now. Could there be any other issue or should this fix it?

There can definitely be other issues, but this is the most likely culprit.

 

[LuigiGad]

Ok. I’ll just order a bunch of the 100 and double up on the other 2 for now. Could there be any other issue or should this fix it?

Even I for the first time an OLED gave me the same problem. It's the first oled that with 47/47/47 gives me that problem. I solved it with 47x2-DAT0/47x2-CMD/47-CLK, even if occasionally I got the error again but less burdensome as it worked normally both in ofw and in emu

 

[BlueBeans]

There can definitely be other issues, but this is the most likely culprit.

Ok thank you. I’ll double them up tonight and report back.

Post automatically merged: Nov 14, 2023

Even I for the first time an OLED gave me the same problem. It's the first oled that with 47/47/47 gives me that problem. I solved it with 47x2-DAT0/47x2-CMD/47-CLK, even if occasionally I got the error again but less burdensome as it worked normally both in ofw and in emu

I always use 47 on all 3. This is the first time seeing this message. This happens when trying to create an emmunand.

 

[lightninjay]

Ok thank you. I’ll double them up tonight and report back.

Post automatically merged: Nov 14, 2023

I always use 47 on all 3. This is the first time seeing this message. This happens when trying to create an emmunand.

Not to be a dick or anything, but this IS covered in the guide.

 

[supertaco]

https://files.zzattack.org/img/console/switch

Hi, do you know how can i donwload it all with one click? its super useful!

 

[FelpaAzzurra]

I have this error =*== which happened a lot of times but after some reboots it fixed itself but now it is doing this shit and booting to ofw since yesterday night and i don't know how to fix it, it also did it 2 days ago and 2 reboots fixed it. Picofly on fw 2.75 OFW on 17.0.0 and i have the classic rp2040 board. Thanks

 

[RiotRetroGaming]

Just received this message for the first time. What could be the problem?

I've seen this with a few cowboy fixes I've had to do.
The DAT0 is sitting partially on DAT1, with the crappy OATO adaptors the silk screen is either off center, or the DAT0 pin connector is a 'C' kind of look and not a 'u'... sometimes the C connection touches the side of DAT1.

I'd pull it, move it over to the right a mm or so (as you're facing the emmc from the switch's pcb edge) so it's touching a no connection ball under the emmc next to DAT0.

That usually sorts it.
Seeing slow mode is usually bad news and a few power ons/offs away from a corrupted emmc.

I had to fix a few by restoring a dummy emmc.
Pain in the butt.

EDIT: I've also never had to double up on any resistors on a mod still and no come backs.
It's usually a bad wiring joint.
I know it's a pain, but go through all connections and buzz them all out or redo them all, it will be something not quite right.



Ant

 

[LuigiGad]

I've seen this with a few cowboy fixes I've had to do.
The DAT0 is sitting partially on DAT1, with the crappy OATO adaptors the silk screen is either off center, or the DAT0 pin connector is a 'C' kind of look and not a 'u'... sometimes the C connection touches the side of DAT1.

I'd pull it, move it over to the right a mm or so (as you're facing the emmc from the switch's pcb edge) so it's touching a no connection ball under the emmc next to DAT0.

That usually sorts it.
Seeing slow mode is usually bad news and a few power ons/offs away from a corrupted emmc.

I had to fix a few by restoring a dummy emmc.
Pain in the butt.

EDIT: I've also never had to double up on any resistors on a mod still and no come backs.
It's usually a bad wiring joint.
I know it's a pain, but go through all connections and buzz them all out or redo them all, it will be something not quite right.



Ant

let's not talk nonsense, the eristas all want double resistance on dat and cmd, and it's not an installation problem. I also thought it was impossible on OLEDs but some models require double resistance.

 

[Hassal]

Oy vey. Bad news for my long flex. Full report coming later when I identify the issue.

Unfortunate, the master flex ribbon gave me a headache. I had to separate D0 and 3v3 lines to be able to retrieve the system because it won't let me write to the eMMC. The flex left the system unstable, it was constantly getting corrupted from interference. The adapter is perfectly fine though. Oh well, I think I'll just repurpose the master flex to handle several lines instead of the whole.

 

[Crung]

Why in the hell would u add UV mask directly under the emmc.
When u set a dat0 point always us UV mask above the emmc and not directly underneath, if u do that ur gonna have issue cause the emmc will never sit properly instead its gonna lay on the UV mask

its a really thin layer even if you cant tell from pictures its to secure the wire and not go to narnia while solder is melted and the emmc is sitting on top of the wire causing tension

Post automatically merged: Nov 15, 2023

They filter/stabilize the vcc (3.3v) supply for the emmc. i would guess some other chip on your 3.3v rail has broken - perhaps your rp2040 or the 3.3v wire to it?

yeah i removed the picofly wires from power and ground and the caps are no longer shorted. i wonder if the picofly is dead or not out of curiosity. Ill replace it anyways i think. First time a picofly chip dies on me

 

[GPTRPSN]

Is it okay to use it with only one mosfet instead of two? (without flex cable) Mine is working like a charm without problem with one mosfet only. (OLED model)

 

[Gladuin]

Hi, do you know how can i donwload it all with one click? its super useful!

not on the website itself. i've downloaded the folders before so i've attatched it here (removed some folders and files to keep the size down)

EDIT: couldn't attach the zip because it was too large. you can use some kind of http downloading tool like wget to download the entire thing

 

[deeps]

Is it okay to use it with only one mosfet instead of two? (without flex cable) Mine is working like a charm without problem with one mosfet only. (OLED model)

Yes, I do all of mine with just one

 

[karatefeet]

Been dealing with a OLED that stopped working after a week. Reballed the eMMC and ran a permanent wire and it boots to OFW with no issues.
Installed the zero and hekate boots fine but not ofw. Ok, no problem - add extra resistors to Dat0 and CMD. Now when trying to boot OFW, I get a 2002-3539 error right away. Removed the chip and ofw boots fine.
Any ideas what the issue might be? Read it could be the dat0 so I ran a new wire just in case but no dice.

 

[GPTRPSN]

Yes, I do all of mine with just one

Thank you. One more question.

Is it possible that we will have to update or change the file we put into rp2040 in the future? How will this process be done since we have removed the USB port?