Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

FreeLander

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i would also say this is caused by a dat0 adapter, eather not properly set and it moved or it bent while it got warm what the issue is with some dat0 Adapter.

some how it bridged and not thats the reason u have this issue.

but since u have it already installed for a week u should have made a backup. so take the emmc out set it properly and restore the emmc and ur issue should be gone
Thanks, if no backup is made? Is there any way to revive it?
 
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Dee87

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Thanks, if no backup is made? Is there any way to revive it?

Bro what u mean if no back up is made, that's the first thing u do for cases like this.

U can rebuild firmware but u won't have be able to use Nintendo online services AFAIK .

But normally u won't need them if u only use cfw.
 
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bilalhassan341

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Thanks, if no backup is made? Is there any way to revive it?
Take prod key from switch by using lockpickrcm. Use the sthethix level 1 unbricking video to rebuild the firmware. if the level 1 didn't work, move to level 2. You can also confirm the firmware or nand pertitions are correct by using nxnand manager by selecting prod key and partition, it will show you switch seriel. If level 1 or 2 didn't work, then the whole emmc is corrupted you have to rebuild it with zero's seriel and partition, but level 3 is for rebuild nand from start. So, level 1 and then level 2 would be great.

Note: if the prod key is corrupted, the level 3 will have a zero's seriel prod key in rar file in decription link in stethix video. But online
gaming will not work as switch has zero seriel.
 
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FreeLander

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Bro what u mean if no back up is made, that's the first thing u do for cases like this.

U can rebuild firmware but u won't have be able to use Nintendo online services AFAIK .

But normally u won't need them if u only use cfw.
I know, pretty bad. I'm okay with rebuilding for sure!
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Take prod key from switch by using lockpickrcm. Use the sthethix level 1 unbricking video to rebuild the firmware. if the level 1 didn't work, move to level 2. You can also confirm the firmware or nand pertitions are correct by using nxnand manager by selecting prod key and partition, it will show you switch seriel. If level 1 or 2 didn't work, then the whole emmc is corrupted you have to rebuild it with zero's seriel and partition, but level 3 is for rebuild nand from start. So, level 1 and then level 2 would be great.
Alright. Thank you! Will do this and report back
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prod.key dump at least?
As Awful as it sounds, I really did not do any. Laziness has a cost.
 

bilalhassan341

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I know, pretty bad. I'm okay with rebuilding for sure!
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Alright. Thank you! Will do this and report back
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As Awful as it sounds, I really did not do any. Laziness has a cost.
Taking the backup of prod key is a must for me, before closing the switch back cover. I take the backup on the first run to hekake.
 

Hassal

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I know, pretty bad. I'm okay with rebuilding for sure!
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Alright. Thank you! Will do this and report back
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As Awful as it sounds, I really did not do any. Laziness has a cost.
If your USER partition table magically disappeared without having backup you might still have a chance as I've read more than one person reporting that HWFLY is able to read the corrupted eMMC.

Personally I had no luck when this happened to me, even the eMMC would not accept donor so I had to swap it out for another one to make the switch work again.
 
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Mr Skinner

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I finally got my hands on the Zelda Oled that I ordered 3 months ago and I decided to try and set a proper dat0 by removing the emmc.

A couple of things to point out:
- It was easier than I thought but I've been preparing/practicing for this for quite some time so for anyone reading this I would suggest you do your homework before diving in.
- The amount of beating these chips can handle is quite impressive.
- Same as Takezo-San wrote a couple of post above, I had no luck with stencil and paste (maybe I was stressed and tired because I started doing this at 11pm) so after trying a couple of times and failed I just did it manually one by one with 0.3 balls.
Everything went smoothly afterwards and since the board was already off I also decided to try the abal's mosfet placement on the back of the apu.
I just want to say that this is an amazing thread with some amazing people and the list of people to say thank you is way too long but I have to point out @Dee87 and @Takezo-San without whom I probably would have not had the courage/will to go through with this process and a special thanks to @abal1000x who’s dedication and contribution to this whole mod is priceless.
Below you can see some pictures, I should have done more but I got carried away in the heat of the moment :D
Edit: It goes without saying that without Rehius none of this would even be possible so... :bow: :bow: :bow:
Thank you for your dedication!

I really or a big fan of determined people, you and @Takezo-San are at the top of my list!

Thanks to the tips and advice, I was able to save my oled scarlet and violet edition, and now I have an extra mainboard that I bought thinking it was hopeless. I'm going to compare a Zelda OLED and risk installing dat0 on this new board!

Hello, I'd like your input on this, guys.
Picofly installed nicely on OLED and worked fine for a week. Now I get "eMMC slow mode" but not on the main hekate screen but when I create eMMUC.
Furthermore, eMMC tab shows the error with 0 bus speed.
OFW > purple screen.
CFW > failed to init eMMC, failed launch HOS

Do you guys think this is fixable with adding resistors on Dat0,CMD?, or is it a CMD resistor issue?, or eMMC?
I was able to replicate this error as a test on a lite switch by submitting the emmc to install a junk dat0 adpter from aliexpress. In my case it happened because of the short between dat0 and another dat pin on the chip. I removed the dat0 adapter, and made a cut according to the recommendations of the Quitin thread and I was successful.

About the speed problem, I don't know exactly. I would check the wires, their length, very long wires usually give this error. Check the resistors too.
 
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Dee87

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I know, pretty bad. I'm okay with rebuilding for sure!
Post automatically merged:


Alright. Thank you! Will do this and report back
Post automatically merged:


As Awful as it sounds, I really did not do any. Laziness has a cost.

Well
About the speed problem, I don't know exactly. I would check the wires, their length, very long wires usually give this error. Check the resistors too.

The issue has nothing to do with wires, the oled worked for a week , and its most unlikely that the resistors gave up after a week.

It 100 percent dat0 fault, eather it's was I installation issue
Not soldered properly or warp after it warmed up and bridged some pins.
 

aguskaryana

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halo saya mau tanya kemarin saya pasang ficofly chip dan pas mau bikin eMMC ga bisa, ada yg bisa bantu saya
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hello I want to ask yesterday I installed the Ficofly chip and when I want to make eMMC it doesn't work, can anyone help me
 

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jkyoho

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halo saya mau tanya kemarin saya pasang ficofly chip dan pas mau bikin eMMC ga bisa, ada yg bisa bantu saya
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hello I want to ask yesterday I installed the Ficofly chip and when I want to make eMMC it doesn't work, can anyone help me
soldering pictures?
 
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FreeLander

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Well

The issue has nothing to do with wires, the oled worked for a week , and its most unlikely that the resistors gave up after a week.

It 100 percent dat0 fault, eather it's was I installation issue
Not soldered properly or warp after it warmed up and bridged some pins.
Agreed. I will follow the three-level tutorial Stheix did and see how it goes. You've always warned us on those adaptors. I'm glad I'm progressing in my reballing skills. Thanks again.
 

aguskaryana

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Last edited by aguskaryana,

aguskaryana

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Periksa bantalan solder cmd Anda. Saya rasa saya merobek bantalan saat mencopotnya.

Masalah emmc lambat, Anda memerlukan resistor 100ohm atau 2 47ohm pada jalur dat0 dan cmd.
bantalan cdm tidak rusak
 

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abal1000x

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I finally got my hands on the Zelda Oled that I ordered 3 months ago and I decided to try and set a proper dat0 by removing the emmc.

A couple of things to point out:
- It was easier than I thought but I've been preparing/practicing for this for quite some time so for anyone reading this I would suggest you do your homework before diving in.
- The amount of beating these chips can handle is quite impressive.
- Same as Takezo-San wrote a couple of post above, I had no luck with stencil and paste (maybe I was stressed and tired because I started doing this at 11pm) so after trying a couple of times and failed I just did it manually one by one with 0.3 balls.
Everything went smoothly afterwards and since the board was already off I also decided to try the abal's mosfet placement on the back of the apu.
I just want to say that this is an amazing thread with some amazing people and the list of people to say thank you is way too long but I have to point out @Dee87 and @Takezo-San without whom I probably would have not had the courage/will to go through with this process and a special thanks to @abal1000x who’s dedication and contribution to this whole mod is priceless.
Below you can see some pictures, I should have done more but I got carried away in the heat of the moment :D
Edit: It goes without saying that without Rehius none of this would even be possible so... :bow: :bow: :bow:
After you place the ball manually do you use hotplate or hot air to melt it down?
Post automatically merged:

The new V5 version. Used it on 20+ OLEDs with no issues. The one that has good half circle. This is news to me since I always push my adaptors to the right to avoid dat1.

Any idea if this can be fixed?
Have you check the cmd pull up resistor on the board (not on picofly).

Since the ofw shows purple screen and the picofly detect that the initialization of the emmc doesn't occured. Its highly probable that the cpu cannot connect to the emmc. The CMD and/or CLK of the emmc are disconnected from the nvidia tegra.
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bantalan cdm tidak rusak
Check the pullup resistor that connected to the cmd line in the mother board (not on the picofly)
 
Last edited by abal1000x,

aguskaryana

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Setelah Anda meletakkan bola secara manual, apakah Anda menggunakan hotplate atau udara panas untuk melelehkannya?
[penggabungan otomatis]1692076282[/penggabungan otomatis]

Sudahkah Anda memeriksa cmd pull up resistor di papan (bukan di picofly).

Karena ofw menunjukkan layar ungu dan picofly mendeteksi bahwa inisialisasi emmc tidak terjadi. Kemungkinan besar cpu tidak dapat terhubung ke emmc. CMD dan/atau CLK emmc terputus dari nvidia tegra.
[penggabungan otomatis]1692076424[/penggabungan otomatis]

Periksa resistor pullup yang terhubung ke jalur cmd di motherboard (bukan di picofly)
Setelah Anda meletakkan bola secara manual, apakah Anda menggunakan hotplate atau udara panas untuk melelehkannya?
[penggabungan otomatis]1692076282[/penggabungan otomatis]

Sudahkah Anda memeriksa cmd pull up resistor di papan (bukan di picofly).

Karena ofw menunjukkan layar ungu dan picofly mendeteksi bahwa inisialisasi emmc tidak terjadi. Kemungkinan besar cpu tidak dapat terhubung ke emmc. CMD dan/atau CLK emmc terputus dari nvidia tegra.
[penggabungan otomatis]1692076424[/penggabungan otomatis]

Periksa resistor pullup yang terhubung ke jalur cmd di motherboard (bukan di picofly)
dapatkah Anda menunjukkan kepada saya di mana resistor berada
 

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