mosfet below?Well I did try it on my personal Oled did get it running with one MOSFET for the first time on a Oled
But with very slow glitching.
I'm gonna do some more testing later
I was just giving further reasons why @abal1000x's idea could be more efficient. No reason to be defensive. I deliberately avoided talking about the guide even.
okay i did get it fixed and have faster glitching now i just didnt add enough solder to it i guess :-)Well I did try it on my personal Oled did get it running with one MOSFET for the first time on a Oled
But with very slow glitching.
I'm gonna do some more testing later
this was a short test , for now ill do some more testing tommorow but i thin its fine now.
getting some more resistors tommorow so ill also do some testing with 100ohm on dat0
and finally add a 1k pulldown on the mosfet Xd
Huh?
Post automatically merged:
@abal1000x didn't your testing conclude 'bigger than 1k' for pulldown?
i think it was beetween 1 and 3 k not sure gonna do some reading that again ;-)
Last edited by Dee87,
Here's my answer, i done today my lil bro v2.
And it's my first install.
There was a little problem with the d0 and mosfet.
The cpu clamp is touched these cables that was the problem.
Don't place cables under the cpu heatsink clamp because it's very sensitive to force and you can get d0 error, mosfet error or big black lazy D.
maybe only this enameled wire like this.
Don't be afraid of that white paste on the chip and solder points, that is uv mask to ensure nothing get sorted and the soldering stay in place.
With the solder masking it takes hours but it's gonna be more stable and reliable.
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I don't know why people afraid on bridging on there.
I also experiment on adding cap on the center of the crowded caps in there, to see if it could reduce the glitch time on mariko. Got accidentally bridging cap in there and unbrigde it. The key to unbridge is you must use a very high temperature, in my station i set it to 400 degrees Celsius, lot of flux, low temp solder, and wick to suck the tin out.
For me the risk on modding the cpu is greater than cap in the back. First, the cpu cap is so small, and since its cpu, its designed to suck heat. So soldering in there is difficult with a high risk in broking the cap and/or cpu. While the cap in the back was so big, you could literally use high temperature without worrying gonna destroy the cap, or cpu. You also need not worry some debris will goes to the BGA of the cpu.
In my opinion the risk is lesser than modding the cpu caps.
I don't know a thing about making video on youtube. So i pass on that to other which have the knowledge on it.
Post automatically merged:
Not yet experiment on it.
By calculation its should be 300k.
But if i do the trial, i will start on 100k then 50k, then 20k, and 10k.
I think 1k is too small.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I've check the cap on oled, it quite good point, avoid open apu shield, clean paste... and just get D point from it could save lot of time. But for the s pin, I won't risk it. S point can get from any gnd padI don't know why people afraid on bridging on there.
I also experiment on adding cap on the center of the crowded caps in there, to see if it could reduce the glitch time on mariko. Got accidentally bridging cap in there and unbrigde it. The key to unbridge is you must use a very high temperature, in my station i set it to 400 degrees Celsius, lot of flux, low temp solder, and wick to suck the tin out.
For me the risk on modding the cpu is greater than cap in the back. First, the cpu cap is so small, and since its cpu, its designed to suck heat. So soldering in there is difficult with a high risk in broking the cap and/or cpu. While the cap in the back was so big, you could literally use high temperature without worrying gonna destroy the cap, or cpu. You also need not worry some debris will goes to the BGA of the cpu.
In my opinion the risk is lesser than modding the cpu caps.
I don't know a thing about making video on youtube. So i pass on that to other which have the knowledge on it.
Post automatically merged:
Not yet experiment on it.
By calculation its should be 300k.
But if i do the trial, i will start on 100k then 50k, then 20k, and 10k.
I think 1k is too small.
The first time i experiment i also do that, just solder the D part. The s part using other point.
So if the experiment failed, its easily removed.
But after the experiment successful, its safe to solder both on the caps.
Of course it will be harder to remove, but that the whole point, so no mechanical shake could remove it. Who knows that switch will be used to play some moving activity games.
Interesting. What's your strategy? ONE mosfet for V2/Lite, and TWO for OLED? Before using this.Well I did try it on my personal Oled did get it running with one MOSFET for the first time on a Oled
But with very slow glitching.
I'm gonna do some more testing later
I've done many OLEDs with Flex v1 no boot delayWell I did try it on my personal Oled did get it running with one MOSFET for the first time on a Oled
But with very slow glitching.
I'm gonna do some more testing later
Attachments
Well lucky u :-) I tried a pled first with 1 MOSFET didn't work after that is only went with 2 cause I didn't wanna fuck around with it.
But I did add more solder and that worked also I did it on the back side ;-)
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