Not really a tutorial per say but decided to create this since its dead easy for people that are used to soldering, and IMHO way better than to have to stick a JIG every time you boot (Not considering AutoRCM because of the possible battery issues that would occur if you forget to power it down every single time)

Basically we will bridge pins 9 and 10 on the joycon rail which would be the same as to what people were doing bending the pins together, but it would be 100% safe and you wouldn't have any chance of long term problems connecting and disconnecting the joycon.

- Remove the 4 triwing screws on the joycon

- Open it up and remove the philips screw holding the rail agains the plastic case.

- Remove the foam pad protecting the pins, and bridge as the picture below (if you prefer you could also use a wire)

This will not have any negative effect on the joycon or switch itself. If you want to boot into OFW just boot it normally.

If you want RCM, just hold power button + Volume UP and you are golden!

If by any reason you want to undo it, just use some solder wick and unbridge the contacts.


EDITED:


Since some people informed me of a non-permanent way using a reed switch (guide below) I decided to use it myself:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/f-g-joycon-mod-magnethax-switch-edition.502459/


Installed a reed switch to short pins 1-10 and now It only boots to rcm If I use a magnet on the back of the joycon

 

[Pacote]

I know the second statement definitely isn't true. Mine still works even after the update.

You are the second user on this thread that confirmed that got the latest update and still works so probably some mistake on his part

 

[DocKlokMan]

You are the second user on this thread that confirmed that got the latest update and still works so probably some mistake on his part

Yep, I meant to say ‘won’t be seen as attached by the Switch’. It’ll still connect by Bluetooth but won’t see that the JoyCon is docked.

 

[Pacote]

Yep, I meant to say ‘won’t be seen as attached by the Switch’. It’ll still connect by Bluetooth but won’t see that the JoyCon is docked.

Again, can you provide a link of why you so certain of this?

 

[DocKlokMan]

Again, can you provide a link of why you so certain of this?

Nope.

 

[Pacote]

Anyhow, I got a reed switch for a few cents and installed to make it non-permanent.

Any excuse to mod the joycon again lol

 

[Devin]

Again, can you provide a link of why you so certain of this?

It's the case for some people but not all. Like I said in my other post, with points 9-10 bridged the joycons function just fine. Whether it be in bluetooth mode, docked (With bluetooth disabled via airplane mode) and they charge just fine. Not sure where the notion if was firmware related came from but that's not the case.

As for his #1, haven't a clue where he got that information from either. If it's anything like the second then I have doubts of it's legitimacy.

Nice reed switch mod, where'd you buy it from?

 

[DocKlokMan]

Again, can you provide a link of why you so certain of this?

Can now:

Kinda forgot to tweet something about this: current joycon FWs detect the pin 9-10 bridge and refuse to work and stay in bluetooth mode when attached to the console if pin 10 is grounded. Here's a nice little solution to that; 10k (0805) resistor between pins 10 and 7 is the fix. pic.twitter.com/AumBHR1As6

— stuck pixel (@pixel_stuck) May 27, 2018

 

[Pacote]

Can now:

https://twitter.com/pixel_stuck/status/1000552886626148352

Actually this is wrong. My jig uses pin 1 and 10 and my joycon ran into the same issue. A simple turn off/on of the joycon fixes the issue.

 

[Reecey]

Just a quick extra safe idea for everyone with this mod I have done it myself a while back. So before you go and solder your pads together, get some black electric tape and stick/run it down the two pads before the ones your soldering together, make sure its virtually touching the pads your going to solder and covers the rest up and then get a knife and run it down the black tape down the middle, just to make sure when you do solder your contacts you don't get any solder on the others and when your done just remove the tape, its less messy and makes it a safer job! At least this way if your solder went a bit out to that direction of the other pads it will dry on the black tape instead of touching the other joints and you will always have a slight gap between the solder and touching the other pads when you remove the tape off.

 

[Maximilious]

Doesn't matter @Pacote , I saw this in the OP. The title is misleading (since it happens with pins 1 and 10, not just 9 and 10) and this mod is ridiculous. Power cycling the joycon is all that is needed.

Edit: I was referring to this post which the other tweet is in reference of and that my original quote is from:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/finally...n-9-with-10-is-bad.505374/page-3#post-8006808

 

[Pacote]

Doesn't matter @Pacote , I saw this in the OP. The title is misleading (since it happens with pins 1 and 10, not just 9 and 10) and this mod is ridiculous. Power cycling the joycon is all that is needed.

Edit: I was referring to this post which the other tweet is in reference of and that my original quote is from:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/finally...n-9-with-10-is-bad.505374/page-3#post-8006808

I know

I was just quoting on for people that insist in saying that the issue comes with 9 and 10 pin alone.

 

[cpasjuste]

Hi guys.

I do have the "joycon not detected as railed" problem :/

I did the mod with a 10k resistor between pin 1 and 10, but my joycon still doesn’t want to be recognized as railed :/ I do have good solder skills so i don’t think the problem comes from here (enter rcm fine). Maybe the probem is i’m on 3.0.0 ?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hi guys.

I do have the "joycon not detected as railed" problem :/

I did the mod with a 10k resistor between pin 1 and 10, but my joycon still doesn’t want to be recognized as railed :/ I do have good solder skills so i don’t think the problem comes from here (enter rcm fine). Maybe the probem is i’m on 3.0.0 ?

Hum, very strange. I'm on 3.0.0 as said, i did let the device goes in sleep mode with latest CTCaer mod, so i had to hard reset. Now the right joycon is correctly detected as railed...

 

[Jonataurus]

I just put a switch between these pins. I can "mod/unmod" the Joycon with this as I wish.
In case Nintendo can detect permanent mods on a Joycon.

There is no way Nintendo will ban people for having modes joycons because they can be shared.

 

[nitrozz]

i use a push button and is perfect

 

[Robert McCoy]

Snip

 

[Canna]

Two reasons not to do this:


As of the latest JoyCon firmware update, pin 9 no longer works for this and will cause the JoyCon to no longer be seen by the Switch, use pin 1, 2, or 7 instead, those are actual ground pins.

This has been confirmed you should not permanently bridge pin 9-10... but a reed switch would be ok as long as you dont leave the magnet connected for longer then needed..

 

[Arnold101]

Two reasons not to do this:

1. The Switch logs if pin 10 is grounded when the Switch OS boots up and running. So you don't want it ground ALL the time, just long enough to get into RCM
2. As of the latest JoyCon firmware update, pin 9 no longer works for this and will cause the JoyCon to no longer be seen by the Switch, use pin 1, 2, or 7 instead, those are actual ground pins.

shorted pin 1 and 10 but the joycon works only in bluetooth mode, and not when attached to console why?

 

[mattytrog]

Just put the pin 10 wire through a screw hole and screw the screw back in. Short to ground. Done.

Search for Screwhax. One of mine.

 

[IIIIeXTREMeIIII]

i did it and if you connect pin 9 and 10 after the joycon update it wont work in handheld mode

 

[menixabic]

Can not make quote
Great tutorial, thank you. I'm planning on doing it by myself (or ask friend to do it, because my solder skill is kinda bad). Thinking about permanent one solution, because taking magnet with me is problem, because I always forget to take Jig, taking some other thing also will be problem. So my question is, what is the best points to solder, so Joycon will continue to working as intended (bluetooth\wired) and I press vol + go in. The question I want to ask, what is consequences to it? I heard that you solder wrong pins, joycon just stop from working. What I need to solder, so it work wired\bt and work as rcm?