How to make a Joycon Jig for beginers

Ok I'm going to show how I turned my right Joycon into a jig. This is really handy as I'll never lose my jig. This is aimed at beginers.

You'll need a tripoint y00 scredriver, a phillips ph00 screwdriver and some electro conductive paint (you can use foil, wire or solder.... I'll explian why I used the paint later). Youll also need cardboard and tape.

Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for anything that goes wrong. It shouldn't if you do it right and it worked for me.


Firstly if your using cardboard pop a hole in it slightly bigger than the circumference of the joycon. This will allow your joycon to lie flat as you work on it.

IMG_20230309_210252.jpg


Put some tape on the joycon release button (optional). Then undow the 4 Tripoint screws and undoe the case carefully. The case unfolds so the joycon rail should be in the middle.

IMG_20230309_210419~2.jpg



Now you want to unscrew the back cover from the joycon rail (one phillips screw). Take note that there is a guide pin at the opposite end of the case. Be careful not to lose the joycon release button.


IMG_20230309_213322~2.jpg



Now that done tape the joycon rail and the main body to the card. Space them out a little. Keep the back cover handy, make sure the release button is in the right position If you taped it down you should be ok. If it falls out it has a notch so has to go back in the right position (keep turning it you'll know when you get it right). Were also going to remove the sponge pad with some tweezers (plastic if possible). Put the sponge pad into the back cover for now.

IMG_20230309_210859~3.jpg


Ok now get your paintbrush/wire etc. What we are trying to do is join the 2 points I've highlighted together. I'm using electroconductive paint. Because the area is so small I'm actually using my phone (use the flash too) to zoom in so I can see where to put the paint. This is a live photo, I'm approaching the pins from the right as there is nothing other than plastic on that side so I won't bridge connections I shouldn't. It doesn't really matter if the paint goes on the plastic. If you do make a mistake wipe the paint off with kitchen roll and try again.

IMG_20230309_211224~2.jpg



Below is what the finished product looked like
IMG_20230309_211512.jpg


You can see the paint is/was wet. Its still a little glossy, it takes about 30 min to dry. You can use a hair dryer (don't use full power)... it takes about 2 min with a hair dryer. Once dry the paint will matt slightly (please be aware there are different paints). The paint won't conduct unless its dry and also when we replace the sponge it'll probably soak it up. Below is a dried image. Make sure you haven't briged any of the other pins. It shouldn't matter too much if you go over one of the lines as the conductive material is on the other side of the ribbon cable. I still feel its good practice not too. The lines I've gone over are the ones that correspond to the pins I wanted to bridge anyway.

Tip: Once dry you can add a very small piece of insulation tape to cover the paint. The paint isn't waterproof and is at best water resistant (small amounts of water and condensation shouldn't affect it). This shouldn't be necessary, but will add longevity. After that the mod should be at least more water proof than the rest of the joycon.


IMG_20230309_213101.jpg



Ok That's pretty much it. Replace the sponge pad. Then screw the back cover back to the joycon rail. Use the guide pin to put it in place first.
IMG_20230309_213322~2.jpg



Finally remove all the tape clip the joycon back together being very careful not to catch any of the cables. Then screw back in the tri point screws

IMG_20230309_210419~2.jpg



OK so now an explanation of why I used conductive paint.

Firstly My soldering skills are average at best so I was never going to solder this. Even someone skilled could make a mistake and maybe melt the ribbon cable. Then there's the tinfoil/wire/tape option. This option is fine and lots of people have done it. I'd just worry that one day that wire or tinfoil would come out playing switch sports and potentially damage the switch. I will say this is unlikely but the conductive paint is designed for applications like this.... I'd describe it as a semi-permanent solution. Its not as permanent as solder, but a lot easier to work with. I couldn't even find my small paint brush so I actually used my daughters paintbrush (6 years old) for water colours.

There is also a residual resistance in conductive paint compared with wire, solder or tinfoil. This will offer some protection against "feedback". I believe this isn't a problem since fw6.0 so I have been unable to test how effective this is. It may act as a complete barrier like a switch or the resistance may be miniscule.

Also I believe you can buy a conductive glue... but I've not used or tested it.

Anyway I thought I'd share as I've just seen an advert for a Joycon jig on eBay and the price was shocking!

If one of the Chosen almost Godly people at the top of GBATEMP wishes to promote us use this guide in the pins it'd be an honour.... I just hope someone finds this useful
 
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CMDreamer

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Can't see anything but a single picture. What was this meant to be?

Edit:

The use of conductive ink is a clever idea. It simplifies the process a lot and removes the posibility of damaging permanently the soldering points and/or the flex cables.

I sure recommend this method. It might be expanded if some sort of a switch would be made using the conductive ink in the outside of the joycon, but that's another story.
 
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Kallim

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Can't see anything but a single picture. What was this meant to be?
Sorry I was writing and editing it.... you should be able to see it now.
Post automatically merged:

Can't see anything but a single picture. What was this meant to be?
Sorry I was still editing it.
Post automatically merged:

tin foil is the best first jig


Be careful doing that one of the pins conatins voltage.
Post automatically merged:

Joycon mod is pretty good if you can do it, a few different ways you can about it depending how creative you're feeling
I've seen that before but one of those pins contains voltage. You can
Joycon mod is pretty good if you can do it, a few different ways you can about it depending how creative you're feeling
I really wouldn't do it that way. If the tinfoil moves you could blow the switch. Tecnically you can just bend pin 9 to pin 10 on the rail. If your going to use tinfoil the safest way is inside the casing.
 
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Dust2dust

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The problem I see with this method is that the pins will be permanently seen by the Switch as connected. As it's not a normal state, it might create problems when you're trying to update the joycon. This can happen every once in a while with new firmware updates. Try to check your controller in HOS. The first pic is with pins connected. The second is no abnormal connections between pins.

Modded (pins connected):
jig_inserted.jpg


Normal mode:
no_jig.jpg


Personally, I went with a mod proposed by mattytrog way back when. It allows the joycon to behave normally and is very simple to do, just one wire to solder.
 

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Joycon mod is pretty good if you can do it, a few different ways you can about it depending how creative you're feeling
iam just saying that as first quick jig tin foil is the easiest way to do :D iam to lazy for joycon mods i was planing to do it by switch under lock button but i have 3 pairs of joycons so :P too much work xD and iam not even power it off that much :D

Be careful doing that one of the pins conatins voltage.

I didn't know what you are posting in here :D as a permament jig tin foil is ofc no go but as an alternative to f*** paperclip is a way easier and safer method :P
 

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The problem I see with this method is that the pins will be permanently seen by the Switch as connected. As it's not a normal state, it might create problems when you're trying to update the joycon. This can happen every once in a while with new firmware updates. Try to check your controller in HOS. The first pic is with pins connected. The second is no abnormal connections between pins.

Modded (pins connected):
View attachment 358115

Normal mode:
View attachment 358117

Personally, I went with a mod proposed by mattytrog way back when. It allows the joycon to behave normally and is very simple to do, just one wire to solder.

I actually thought about that and I've sent mods with magnetic switches etc. But it didn't need it the joycon behaves normally.

I'm not sure why but I've seen it also done with a resistor. Maybe the paint contains some resistance but it works perfectly. I've done 3 now and they all just work.
Post automatically merged:

I actually thought about that and I've sent mods with magnetic switches etc. But it didn't need it the joycon behaves normally.

I'm not sure why but I've seen it also done with a resistor. Maybe the paint contains some resistance but it works perfectly. I've done 3 now and they all just work.


The main reason I was a little worried was that you need joycons attached to factory reset... That won't be an issue now.
 

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I really wouldn't do it that way. If the tinfoil moves you could blow the switch. Tecnically you can just bend pin 9 to pin 10 on the rail. If your going to use tinfoil the safest way is inside the casing.

I didn't mention tinfoil, its an an awful way to do it. I only mentioned joycon mods lol

Pin 4 is the one that provides 5v for the joycon
 

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I didn't mention tinfoil, its an an awful way to do it. I only mentioned joycon mods lol

Pin 4 is the one that provides 5v for the joycon
Sorry.

Do you know if the soldered way causes the disconnect/forced Bluetooth issue? Or does that also just work.

I've seen another mod using pin7 obviously you can change the ground pin to any pin with ground. I'm not sure if this works because pin 9 and 10 have more resistance or maybe the electro conductive paint has a very slight resistance compared to wire (good luck getting a multi meter in there).... But I do know it just works. It works perfectly as a jig and a joycon. You can also remove the paint with alcohol and a small paintbrush if you really needed too. I posted because I don't see a downside to this method (yet).
 

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Sorry.

Do you know if the soldered way causes the disconnect/forced Bluetooth issue? Or does that also just work.

I've seen another mod using pin7 obviously you can change the ground pin to any pin with ground. I'm not sure if this works because pin 9 and 10 have more resistance or maybe the electro conductive paint has a very slight resistance compared to wire (good luck getting a multi meter in there).... But I do know it just works. It works perfectly as a jig and a joycon. You can also remove the paint with alcohol and a small paintbrush if you really needed too. I posted because I don't see a downside to this method (yet).

I couldn't comment on bridging 9 and 10 I've only ever bridged them temporarily, I believe bridging 7 and 10 with a 10k resistor doesn't affect the normal functionality of the joycon.

I think conductive paint is a great way to bridge the pins especially for those who aren't comfortable using a soldering iron. Very easy to correct any mistakes and to clean off if you don't want the pins bridged permanently.
 
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I couldn't comment on bridging 9 and 10 I've only ever bridged them temporarily, I believe bridging 7 and 10 with a 10k resistor doesn't affect the normal functionality of the joycon.

I think conductive paint is a great way to bridge the pins especially for those who aren't comfortable using a soldering iron. Very easy to correct any mistakes and to clean off if you don't want the pins bridged permanently.

That was my chain of thought.

Pin 7 is the "official" ground. And I've seen (on git hub I think) someone bridge this permanently to pin 10.

Now I will admit I didn't want to solder.... But this method worked out better than I'd planned. I'm not sure if you were to solder straight to pin 9 if that would eliminate the need for a 10k resistor? The paint obviously will have some minimal resistance. But it should last and conduct well I know people use this to fix rear heated windows etc when there is a break in the lines across windows.

But it did work really well with the paint. The joycon connects and updates with no issues and you don't need a magnet. The only future issue I can see might be the longevity of it. In theory it should last as long as the joycons. I've googled how long it lasts and it's up to 2 years but that's in the bottle until it dries... That said the product isn't waterproof. I guess if you wanted it permeant you could put a small slither of insulation tape over the paint (smaller than the mini sponge) then you're probably more likely to break the joycon via water damage than break the modification (not that either of the goal).
 

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At the OP, if you were going to do a simple mod like this, you'd have been better using a resistor or diode or both instead of paint. Didn't you have a soldering iron?
 

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That was my chain of thought.

Pin 7 is the "official" ground. And I've seen (on git hub I think) someone bridge this permanently to pin 10.

Now I will admit I didn't want to solder.... But this method worked out better than I'd planned. I'm not sure if you were to solder straight to pin 9 if that would eliminate the need for a 10k resistor? The paint obviously will have some minimal resistance. But it should last and conduct well I know people use this to fix rear heated windows etc when there is a break in the lines across windows.

But it did work really well with the paint. The joycon connects and updates with no issues and you don't need a magnet. The only future issue I can see might be the longevity of it. In theory it should last as long as the joycons. I've googled how long it lasts and it's up to 2 years but that's in the bottle until it dries... That said the product isn't waterproof. I guess if you wanted it permeant you could put a small slither of insulation tape over the paint (smaller than the mini sponge) then you're probably more likely to break the joycon via water damage than break the modification (not that either of the goal).

I think the 10k resistor across 7 and 10 allows for a permanent mod that can be used as a jig and a normal joycon without any loss of functionality.

I personally just bridged 9 and 10 with a blob of solder, used it to enter rcm once, turned on auto rcm, then unbridged them. If you leave them bridged I think there is some possibilty of something not working properly but I can't remember what it was sorry.
 
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I think the 10k resistor across 7 and 10 allows for a permanent mod that can be used as a jig and a normal joycon without any loss of functionality.

I personally just bridged 9 and 10 with a blob of solder, used it to enter rcm once, turned on auto rcm, then unbridged them. If you leave them bridged I think there is some possibilty of something not working properly but I can't remember what it was sorry.
If you bridge 9/10 and are below a specific JoyCon firmware, the bridged JoyCon will no longer work until the firmware is updated. This can be tricky if you don’t have a Pro controller to update the JoyCon firmware after, but it isn’t an issue if you update the JoyCon firmware to the latest beforehand.

I solder blobbed 9/10 a few months ago. Everything still works perfectly fine.
 
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impeeza

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no bad, but I think you need a switch between the pins because shortcut the pins is like press a button for the SoC and you can get mixed results.

There has been lots of switches for that, I can remember: a Push button with a hole on the case to press it, two wires on each side of the release latch, and even a reel switch which is the coolest to me, you use a magnet to "press" the button like with the 3DS!!

Or you can try:

 

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I think the 10k resistor across 7 and 10 allows for a permanent mod that can be used as a jig and a normal joycon without any loss of functionality.

I personally just bridged 9 and 10 with a blob of solder, used it to enter rcm once, turned on auto rcm, then unbridged them. If you leave them bridged I think there is some possibilty of something not working properly but I can't remember what it was sorry.
I think it's been mentioned below and above with the joycon disconnect issue.

The 3 switches I've done seem to work perfectly and the joycons are fully connected.
Post automatically merged:

no bad, but I think you need a switch between the pins because shortcut the pins is like press a button for the SoC and you can get mixed results.

There has been lots of switches for that, I can remember: a Push button with a hole on the case to press it, two wires on each side of the release latch, and even a reel switch which is the coolest to me, you use a magnet to "press" the button like with the 3DS!!

Or you can try:

View attachment 358319
I've seen a few of the magnetic switches... But it's not something for beginners I'm trying to keep it simple.

Looking at another post there could be an issue with fw6. I might downgrade my firmware and check to see if it works.

I have a theory that the natural miniscule resistance in the paint (as opposed to wire) will stop this every being an issue. I think I may have to downgrade my switch to test it.
Post automatically merged:

At the OP, if you were going to do a simple mod like this, you'd have been better using a resistor or diode or both instead of paint. Didn't you have a soldering iron?
Yes but I wouldn't recommend micro soldering onto a soft plastic cable to beginners.... I wouldn't even like to do it myself as my soldering skills are only mediocre (I did an original playstation and wouldn't be confident doing more).
Post automatically merged:

If you bridge 9/10 and are below a specific JoyCon firmware, the bridged JoyCon will no longer work until the firmware is updated. This can be tricky if you don’t have a Pro controller to update the JoyCon firmware after, but it isn’t an issue if you update the JoyCon firmware to the latest beforehand.

I solder blobbed 9/10 a few months ago. Everything still works perfectly fine.
So it's the joycon firmware..... I guess I can't test my theory by downgrading the switch fw then.
Post automatically merged:

For “beginners” spending $5 on a jig might be better then opening up their joycons.
The guide is aimed at people who already have a jig and have a modded switch. It's just to provide a more convenient way to enter RCM mode. Doing it this way is probably one of the easiest mods to start with. You only need to remove the back cover and your straight into the joycon pins. The paint is a little tricky, but you can wipe away and try it as many times as you like.

Once it's done you never need to worry about losing your jig or not taking it in trips.
Post automatically merged:

no bad, but I think you need a switch between the pins because shortcut the pins is like press a button for the SoC and you can get mixed results.

There has been lots of switches for that, I can remember: a Push button with a hole on the case to press it, two wires on each side of the release latch, and even a reel switch which is the coolest to me, you use a magnet to "press" the button like with the 3DS!!

Or you can try:

View attachment 358319
I've just googled resistance in electro conductive paint. Apparently it has a resistance of 55 ohms. Do you know or does anyone know if that's enough to stop the disconnect issues or the issues not updating on early firmware?
Post automatically merged:

If you bridge 9/10 and are below a specific JoyCon firmware, the bridged JoyCon will no longer work until the firmware is updated. This can be tricky if you don’t have a Pro controller to update the JoyCon firmware after, but it isn’t an issue if you update the JoyCon firmware to the latest beforehand.

I solder blobbed 9/10 a few months ago. Everything still works perfectly fine.
I don't suppose you know if the residual resistance in the paint would stop that? It's 55 ohms of that helps.I know that's miniscule.
 
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Kallim

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Jigs are great but for the impatient/cheapskate begginer this is better than foil I'd say
The problem with foil is it can fall off.... And where's it going to go???
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The problem with foil is it can fall off.... And where's it going to go???
I meant fall off the inside of the joycon when the tape gets old. I just wouldn't even risk my switch using the foil trick on the outside of the rail.... But at a push I'd consider using a stripe of paint on the pins (I don't know if that would work and it'd probably wear off).
 
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