Creator should just put a disclaimer in the OP stating that any bricks aren't his fault, it is obviously the fault of the user, their software, and/or their hardware.
U
uberNeko
Guest
@rajkosto
I'm not posting here to bash you at all.
You do put out some amazing work!
But you have to consider the possibility it's your cfw its as simple as that.
The hardware failure that would have to cascade for this issue would be astronomical.
Could it be an issue with your patches and tinfoil? That's a possibility.
I didn't run tinfoil with the other cfw I only ran tinfoil with your cfw and my personal rips.
If people still want to think it could be from the internal mod? Fine they can think that all they want, and lets go out on a limb and say OK its the internal mod after hundreds of hours of being connected and tested and flashed no less than 2000 times, lets say it burnt the battery when docked (I'm going WAY out on a limb now) The system should still be able to boot when docked with a fuct battery. The fact that I even have to test reflashing the nand, boot0/1 is so far off base of a burnt battery/charge controller
also the fact this same exact chip that was in this muffed console is now sitting pretty in a brand new console and booting should speak volumes.
I'm not posting here to bash you at all.
You do put out some amazing work!
But you have to consider the possibility it's your cfw its as simple as that.
The hardware failure that would have to cascade for this issue would be astronomical.
Could it be an issue with your patches and tinfoil? That's a possibility.
I didn't run tinfoil with the other cfw I only ran tinfoil with your cfw and my personal rips.
If people still want to think it could be from the internal mod? Fine they can think that all they want, and lets go out on a limb and say OK its the internal mod after hundreds of hours of being connected and tested and flashed no less than 2000 times, lets say it burnt the battery when docked (I'm going WAY out on a limb now) The system should still be able to boot when docked with a fuct battery. The fact that I even have to test reflashing the nand, boot0/1 is so far off base of a burnt battery/charge controller
also the fact this same exact chip that was in this muffed console is now sitting pretty in a brand new console and booting should speak volumes.
How has he made GBATemp as a whole, great again? I'm not being biased but this is a very poor choice of words.
@evilsperm You still havent said if you've played legitimate games without any CFW on (or some other CFW on) that console while docked for any period of time ? Because flux residue on the board starts to corrode/conduct stuff only when sufficiently heated. And if it was a testing switch for modchip installations, it's likely it had a bunch of flux residue. See the images i've linked for someone else who didnt bother cleaning off the flux (even though it was no-clean) and it completely hardware ruined their switch even with no CFW (but only after like half an hour of usage).
It's extremely unlikely that this fault was caused by a CFW. There's really nothing more for me to do about it.
It's extremely unlikely that this fault was caused by a CFW. There's really nothing more for me to do about it.
Last edited by rajkosto,
We don't need 500 pages of roundabout bickering. Everyone in this thread has proven they can't handle discussions that require the maturity of someone over the age of 6. OP can request his thread be reopened once everyone goes and has a little nap. The trolling here is ridiculous. Regardless of your thoughts on this pack, there is NO need to constantly hound the same topics over and over again in this thread.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 15,144
- Trophies
- 0
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
- Website
- boot9strap.com
- XP
- 11,119
- Country
@evilsperm's brick wasn't caused by RajNX. Will open this thread again, but please behave yourselves or it will be locked again.
...So
I want to apologize to @rajkosto
I have looked at his code base and nothing pointed to any hardware registers being muffed.
That being said, again sorry my dude I thought we were going to have another ps3 brick fest. Thankfully we will not!
Well not due to your CFW anyway
Seeing this happened out of nowhere and it really was perfectly lined up for me to think it was the fault of the CFW.
It was not, I have however followed the rabbit hole down as far as it can go, and have come out the other side
I reproduced the brick on a brand new console.
I did not install SwithME, trinket, or use the SwitchME external dongle. So we could take that out of the equation.
I tested with all CFW, and OFW (5.1) and every payload under the sun just because I wanted to be sure.
Again CFW or Payload are ruled out (for these particular switch(s) anyway but don't get it twisted bad CFW or a bad nca can 100% brick your system)
When the new system died it was booted in OFW with Zelda booted up.
I booted up OFW and CFW about 40-50 times. I started to notice some weird things going in both OFW and CFW.
At one point I had to keep plugging and unplugging the console into the dock 10-20 times very fast to get it to power back on because it was showing signs of a bricked
Charge controller IC. This happened in both CFW and OFW, it was just being random.
So lets travel down the path of wtf went wrong and how to avoid it in the future.
But first I want to say Nintendo has a VERY poor design at power management, it was just poorly thought out and execution even worse.
After ripping apart the burnt up switches and testing everything I found it very odd that both switches got burnt up exactly the same.
Charge Controller IC is bad.
Using official docks they came with same goes for the power cords.
Tore down the docks and tested them as well. I found no issue within the docks themselves (more on this later)
So after a few hours of racking my brain on what could have possibly gone wrong and tracking every lead back I found the issue.
I happened to plug in my cellphone charger into the outlet where the switch is plugged in. My phone said charging slowly and only showing 192ma
So flip the USB C cable in the phone and all of a sudden it spikes to 2200mA!
I figure OK this is a fast charger so that should be ok.
...but its not!
My phone should not be getting over 1940mA EVER.
I unplug the phone charger again and plug it back in. Showing 1730mA, flip the USB C and getting 340mA
So now I suspect its the power outlet (a usb combo unit).
I tare down the outlet and start to probe it. Nothing is visible to the eye, nothing smells or looks burnt.
So I wire it back in for further testing. I now see off of one of the regulators the power is fluctuating, its very minor but its enough to get me worried.
I plug in my phone charger again connect my phone and there we have it. I see 2200mA again.
So I start to test the circuit in the outlet, its pulsing current (never a good sign)
so I unplug everything and remove the socket for fear of it starting a fire.
So after testing what I have learned is that the power outlet I have in my wall is a piece of trash, it has failed very insidiously.
It could have been a failure of the controller IC in the outlet itself. I really don't want to dig any deeper and see why the outlet failed because I know it failed and that's good enough. Also I'm pretty sure it has been failing for a while but finally came to a head when the switch couldn't deal with repeated amprage pulses.
I watched the draw on the outlet load and release, sometimes it was rapid and sometimes it took a few minutes.
The only explanation I can come up with for why the the switch drops dead and my phone, laptop, or anything else I plug in doesn't die in a fire, is that every device is actually built to handle amperage fluctuations. Be it 100mA or 1000mA usually they will build in a cutoff or a fuse. We all know nintendo didn't want to spend $0.00007 for the 56k Ohm caps that should have been placed on the usb port for usb C standards. So who knows what else they skimped on or didn't have the foresight to test before releasing their hardware.
So in closing, don't plug your switch into an outlet that has an IC switching system (combo usb outlet)
You haz been warned
Again sorry Raj
Good to hear it wasn't the firmware. I thought it strange that that would be the case
Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
RMA fluxes are not corrosive and non conductive (at least for all but the most sensitive analog circuits) under normal operating conditions including heat. These fluxes are considered no clean by all IPC and military standards. Unless he is using an organic or water based flux this is an unrealistic concern. @evilsperm were you using an Organic, RA, or water soluble flux?
Last edited by gallymimu,
So true. Flux is non conductive. Fact.
I have several electronic componenets that work after 15 years and are full of nasty flux residue.
Not saying raj is causing bricks but saying flux is the problem is a very long stretch
Last edited by Kafluke,
I think it has been confirmed that RajNX was not the cause of this issue, so why are we renewing the brick topic again in this thread?
Last edited by efxonly123,
Saying that RajNX was the problem was probably even more of a stretch. Nobody had enough evidence to know what it was, so we were all grasping at straws.
Oh my GOODNESS! Does NO one read? Quantumcat re-opened the thread by stating the brick wasn't caused by Raj and even quoted evilsperm who stated exactly what DID cause the brick. So, can we drop the speculations about whether or not it was Raj?
@evilsperm's brick wasn't caused by RajNX. Will open this thread again, but please behave yourselves or it will be locked again.
evilsperm said:...So
I want to apologize to @rajkosto
I have looked at his code base and nothing pointed to any hardware registers being muffed.
That being said, again sorry my dude I thought we were going to have another ps3 brick fest. Thankfully we will not!
Well not due to your CFW anyway
Seeing this happened out of nowhere and it really was perfectly lined up for me to think it was the fault of the CFW.
It was not, I have however followed the rabbit hole down as far as it can go, and have come out the other side
I reproduced the brick on a brand new console.
I did not install SwithME, trinket, or use the SwitchME external dongle. So we could take that out of the equation.
I tested with all CFW, and OFW (5.1) and every payload under the sun just because I wanted to be sure.
Again CFW or Payload are ruled out (for these particular switch(s) anyway but don't get it twisted bad CFW or a bad nca can 100% brick your system)
When the new system died it was booted in OFW with Zelda booted up.
I booted up OFW and CFW about 40-50 times. I started to notice some weird things going in both OFW and CFW.
At one point I had to keep plugging and unplugging the console into the dock 10-20 times very fast to get it to power back on because it was showing signs of a bricked
Charge controller IC. This happened in both CFW and OFW, it was just being random.
So lets travel down the path of wtf went wrong and how to avoid it in the future.
But first I want to say Nintendo has a VERY poor design at power management, it was just poorly thought out and execution even worse.
After ripping apart the burnt up switches and testing everything I found it very odd that both switches got burnt up exactly the same.
Charge Controller IC is bad.
Using official docks they came with same goes for the power cords.
Tore down the docks and tested them as well. I found no issue within the docks themselves (more on this later)
So after a few hours of racking my brain on what could have possibly gone wrong and tracking every lead back I found the issue.
I happened to plug in my cellphone charger into the outlet where the switch is plugged in. My phone said charging slowly and only showing 192ma
So flip the USB C cable in the phone and all of a sudden it spikes to 2200mA!
I figure OK this is a fast charger so that should be ok.
...but its not!
My phone should not be getting over 1940mA EVER.
I unplug the phone charger again and plug it back in. Showing 1730mA, flip the USB C and getting 340mA
So now I suspect its the power outlet (a usb combo unit).
I tare down the outlet and start to probe it. Nothing is visible to the eye, nothing smells or looks burnt.
So I wire it back in for further testing. I now see off of one of the regulators the power is fluctuating, its very minor but its enough to get me worried.
I plug in my phone charger again connect my phone and there we have it. I see 2200mA again.
So I start to test the circuit in the outlet, its pulsing current (never a good sign)
so I unplug everything and remove the socket for fear of it starting a fire.
So after testing what I have learned is that the power outlet I have in my wall is a piece of trash, it has failed very insidiously.
It could have been a failure of the controller IC in the outlet itself. I really don't want to dig any deeper and see why the outlet failed because I know it failed and that's good enough. Also I'm pretty sure it has been failing for a while but finally came to a head when the switch couldn't deal with repeated amprage pulses.
I watched the draw on the outlet load and release, sometimes it was rapid and sometimes it took a few minutes.
The only explanation I can come up with for why the the switch drops dead and my phone, laptop, or anything else I plug in doesn't die in a fire, is that every device is actually built to handle amperage fluctuations. Be it 100mA or 1000mA usually they will build in a cutoff or a fuse. We all know nintendo didn't want to spend $0.00007 for the 56k Ohm caps that should have been placed on the usb port for usb C standards. So who knows what else they skimped on or didn't have the foresight to test before releasing their hardware.
So in closing, don't plug your switch into an outlet that has an IC switching system (combo usb outlet)
You haz been warned
Again sorry Raj
I think Raj got a lot of hate for calling his work a CFW and not a "starter pack" or whatever and that cause someone to look to blame him, just my 2 cents.
Back on topic...
I've asked this before but still not saw an answer, and it may now have changed.
@rajkosto , what are in the definite plans for the future development of this CFW ?
and...
What are the future features you will try to implement and what are "wish list" (might not develop but feel are possible) developments?
Back on topic...
I've asked this before but still not saw an answer, and it may now have changed.
@rajkosto , what are in the definite plans for the future development of this CFW ?
and...
What are the future features you will try to implement and what are "wish list" (might not develop but feel are possible) developments?
Last edited by Slimmmmmm,
No one forced anyone to use their CFW, Homebrew or tools. If you like the rest of us that take a chance on any CFW, Homebrew or tools posted here or on any other web/forum you run the risk of things going wrong. You are the first and hopefully, the only (I'm not being a dick) to report a brick on this CFW but if more people get brick again you are taking the risk and no one is forcing anyone to the CFW, Homebrew or tools posted here or anywhere else.
Maybe because his work is not a CFW per se, it's a pack with Atmosphere and i think a modified Hekate plus tinfoil. It's a starter pack, not really a CFW, at least not in the way we know the word but whatever, Rei's is the same i believe, they all sue atmosphere and Hekate as a base
What a shit show...
Stop with the hate!
And people should go down the rabbit hole before start making accusations, not after.
This is a perfectly fine CFW, the guy is a great developer. His work speaks for itself.
He actually must be a very calm and pacient person. If it was me in his position I'd stop contributing to such a toxic community.
Stop with the hate!
And people should go down the rabbit hole before start making accusations, not after.
This is a perfectly fine CFW, the guy is a great developer. His work speaks for itself.
He actually must be a very calm and pacient person. If it was me in his position I'd stop contributing to such a toxic community.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 15,144
- Trophies
- 0
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
- Website
- boot9strap.com
- XP
- 11,119
- Country
Can we keep this thread on topic with giving and receiving support for RajNX, or discussing RajNX itself, and leave the drama behind?
Yeah, I'm looking forward to RajNX developement and see its new features and not to dirt it with more drama than it is.
Enviado desde mi LG-X240 mediante Tapatalk
Similar threads
-
- Portal
-
- Article
