Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Yep double post. (shoot me)

Copied and pasted from other thread...

OK... If someone wants to try this...

https://github.com/mattytrog/Basic-Modchip-UF2/blob/master/UF2/Trinket_Rebug.UF2?raw=true

This is my new "basic UF2" for people who want no pissing around.

Other boards updated tomorrow pending feedback. Trinket & Rebug only at the minute. Source on my git.

With this UF2:
  • Your Trinket / Rebug will look for "payload.bin" OR "start.bin" in SD root and launch automagically.
  • 0 folder not needed
  • nx files not needed
  • No folders will be made
  • If "payload.bin" or "start.bin" is not found, Hekate 4.5 will launch.
  • This is meant for people who don`t want to be pissing around with folders / nx files / etc etc
 

chronoss

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Yep double post. (shoot me)

Copied and pasted from other thread...

OK... If someone wants to try this...

https://github.com/mattytrog/Basic-Modchip-UF2/blob/master/UF2/Trinket_Rebug.UF2?raw=true

This is my new "basic UF2" for people who want no pissing around.

Other boards updated tomorrow pending feedback. Trinket & Rebug only at the minute. Source on my git.

With this UF2:
  • Your Trinket / Rebug will look for "payload.bin" OR "start.bin" in SD root and launch automagically.
  • 0 folder not needed
  • nx files not needed
  • No folders will be made
  • If "payload.bin" or "start.bin" is not found, Hekate 4.5 will launch.
  • This is meant for people who don`t want to be pissing around with folders / nx files / etc etc
Good think, not testé but it's good !

For my best choise, i use a UF2 for "boot.dat" on SD, very simple and easy. Just convert your .bin payload on "boot.dat" ;)
 

Frank1905

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Hello all, I've just ordered a Rebug SwitchMe and I have a little doubt about its installation.
Looking at this picture https://drive.google.com/open?id=1d6JXelUhbIfubrjMsXLjcG1y-pRSfgXE I saw that the SCL pin of the chip is linked to a 3V pin on the motherboard.
The picture on this post says that SCL pin represents an optional feature and it must be linked to GND.
Can someone explain me the difference between these two configs?
Thanks :D
 

mattytrog

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Hello all, I've just ordered a Rebug SwitchMe and I have a little doubt about its installation.
Looking at this picture https://drive.google.com/open?id=1d6JXelUhbIfubrjMsXLjcG1y-pRSfgXE I saw that the SCL pin of the chip is linked to a 3V pin on the motherboard.
The picture on this post says that SCL pin represents an optional feature and it must be linked to GND.
Can someone explain me the difference between these two configs?
Thanks :D
Linked to GND? Nope. Frank I got your pm. I will reply to you shortly. Was busy yesterday
 
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https://gbatemp.net/threads/basic-m...oot-files-trinket-rebug-rcmx86-others.518574/

For people who are after a more basic solution, with bootloaders... Go to the above link.

Faster booting
payload.bin or start.bin will be launched by default
if not found, Hekate will be launched.

Boards covered...
Trinket / Rebug (new universal bootloader methods / newer method 3 / legacy method 3 (quantumcross / atlas44)
Gemma
ItsyBitsy
Feather
NS-Atmosphere (bin file - upload with programmer) **link coming
RCMX86 **link coming
R4S **link coming
 
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FraYcheuR

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Hello,

I have put a Trinket M0 into my Switch.

Flash Trinket with : Version_2_trinket_rebug_both_straps.uf2
and after with : Trinket_Method3.UF2
(without renaming files)


I remove USB port and LED.


I put the Trinket with 3V, GND, USB+, USB- (blue, black, green, yelow)


I have modify Joycon right connecting pin 1 to pin 10


I put off the Switch, i boot with "volume +" and power.

The Trinket do sequence with LED, and stop.

The screen of the Switch stay off/black, nothing appear.


What am i do wrong ?
 

mattytrog

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Hello,

I have put a Trinket M0 into my Switch.

Flash Trinket with : Version_2_trinket_rebug_both_straps.uf2
and after with : Trinket_Method3.UF2
(without renaming files)


I remove USB port and LED.


I put the Trinket with 3V, GND, USB+, USB- (blue, black, green, yelow)


I have modify Joycon right connecting pin 1 to pin 10


I put off the Switch, i boot with "volume +" and power.

The Trinket do sequence with LED, and stop.

The screen of the Switch stay off/black, nothing appear.


What am i do wrong ?
Did you follow section 4?
 

FraYcheuR

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I don't understand what i have to do in section 4. (sorry i'm Frencheee...)

"Download THIS
Extract to the root of your SD card."
The link to 0.zip (on first page of this tread is broken).

I have put on SDcard Atmosthère files and folders.
Always black screen.
 

mattytrog

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I don't understand what i have to do in section 4. (sorry i'm Frencheee...)

"Download THIS
Extract to the root of your SD card."

The link to 0.zip (on first page of this tread is broken).

I have put on SDcard Atmosthère files and folders.
Always black screen.
OK. Think its time I defragmented this. Does anyone actually use the 0 folder / nx files? If not, I`ll discontinue and work on my folderless solution.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

OK. Think its time I defragmented this. Does anyone actually use the 0 folder / nx files? If not, I`ll discontinue and work on my folderless solution.
OK... Folderless solution coming tomorrow.

Nothing else required...
no 0 folder
no nx files

Select payloads with payload select pin - or autoincrease as before.
Up to 32 payloads launchable (possibly more)

Anyone up for it? I`m at a point I can discontinue the nx / 0 folder now.

Would anyone like the payloads in a certain folder?
This is similar to Hekate. However, it is done at modchip level rather than thru menus. Just got error-handling to finish.
 
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roamin

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i switched from sxos and went to kosmos and run hekate, i just set hekate to autoboot the payload i need, if i go back to sxos i will just load it through hekate with its built in autoboot.

i just use your hekate uf2 file. works great in my opinion. so simple even stupid like me can work it out :)
 

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Mate you're amazing, don't blame yourself

Inviato dal mio Nexus 5X utilizzando Tapatalk
Wish I was Frank! I'd have sorted this long ago. Still... This is pretty future proof. Will be discontinued all other stuff and just having the bootloader file to choose .... And one uf2. Which was my aim all along :)
 
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HippoDan

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Mattyfrog,

That's great. So far I'm only using one file to boot to sxos, so this new version would be perfect for me. I've got a full 6 wire setup with 0 folder currently. If I update would I need a new bootloader, or just the secondary uf2?

It's currently working perfectly, I'm a little scared to change what's working, but I'm doing my second switch this week, so I'll give it a try.

Thank you so much for doing the heavy lifting on this project. I was planning to do something very similar myself, but I think I would have been stuck at rewriting the bootloader. That would have left my child trying to remember to hold volume on power up...

Oh my god that solder point for the volume strap is tiny! I was shaking after I finished that one. That had to be the most challenging soldering I've ever done. I was practicing on scrap boards all week, but these were half the size of the components I was practicing on! I ordered .3mm solder for my second switch. Who would have ever thought that .8mm solder was so big?
 

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I got a Trinket M0 with a Broken Reset Button.
Can i install it with a Wire running from RST to the Switch Power Button, to use it as "Double Tap Reset Button" ?
 

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I got a Trinket M0 with a Broken Reset Button.
Can i install it with a Wire running from RST to the Switch Power Button, to use it as "Double Tap Reset Button" ?
Yes. However, I think I`d change the joycon pin. The joycon pin goes to GND on hard reset. Unless you are using my bootloaders, you might have gremlins. Would need to build your own custom version in the arduino ino.I have replacement reset switches
 

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Im using your Bootloaders ^^
Ok. But on the other Hand the Switch is only needet to update the Trinket istelf.
So it should not be a big Problem if i leave it as is i think.
 

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Im using your Bootloaders ^^
Ok. But on the other Hand the Switch is only needet to update the Trinket istelf.
So it should not be a big Problem if i leave it as is i think.
No, not a big problem.

I expect connecting the reset to power button to cause havoc with the payload injection / triggering RCM.
 

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