Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[dave11674]

i want auto rmc
ive put the files on for sx loader autorcm
but when i power down and reboot i get my green lights and then just the other flashing ornage light

any ideas guys please

thanks

running sx os

dave

 

[mattytrog]

i want auto rmc
ive put the files on for sx loader autorcm
but when i power down and reboot i get my green lights and then just the other flashing ornage light

any ideas guys please

thanks

running sx os

dave

You need to boot sxos, hold down volume + and select install autoRCM

 

[mooglazer]

Just wanted to drop a quick thanks. Got my internal install going using Method 1. I couldn't be happier.

I unfortunately butchered the usb connector (and the traces underneath it) while removing it, but luckily I discovered that pins 23 and 24 on the ATSAMD21 are D- and D+, respectively. Not too bad wiring up to the chip directly.

Once I got it wired up, it worked perfectly.

The 3V power point for Method 1:



The D- and D+ points on the ATSAMD21:

 

[mattytrog]

Just wanted to drop a quick thanks. Got my internal install going using Method 1. I couldn't be happier.

I unfortunately butchered the usb connector (and the traces underneath it) while removing it, but luckily I discovered that pins 23 and 24 on the ATSAMD21 are D- and D+, respectively. Not too bad wiring up to the chip directly.

Once I got it wired up, it worked perfectly.

The 3V power point for Method 1:

View attachment 136435

The D- and D+ points on the ATSAMD21:

View attachment 136436

Nice. I`d clean that flux off though

 

[Chm0d3r]

Thank you mattytrog! Your instructions and photos made this doable and fun for a novice. The trinket microusb port came right off with hot air, along with one of the LEDs, that's ok. Works perfectly every time. The 3v connection to the tiny capacitor would fall off when I moved the red wire to put the case back together, so I put a tiny drop of glue on the chip to hold on the wire. Nice and strong now.

I'm using Method_1_SXOS_Test_AUTORCM.zip and the only issue I've noticed is if the switch is off, and I plug it in to charge I can see the trinket powers on and remains on even after disconnecting the charger. Pressing power on the switch doesn't turn it on (appears to be in RCM mode), pressing the button on the trinket gets it to boot, or holding the switch power button will turn the trinket back off. I can see the green LED through the grille of the switch so it's easy for me to tell when the trinket is on, just wondering if that's just the way it is or if I did something wrong. Not a huge deal since it's easy to see if it's in RCM.

 

[mattytrog]

Thank you mattytrog! Your instructions and photos made this doable and fun for a novice. The trinket microusb port came right off with hot air, along with one of the LEDs, that's ok. Works perfectly every time. The 3v connection to the tiny capacitor would fall off when I moved the red wire to put the case back together, so I put a tiny drop of glue on the chip to hold on the wire. Nice and strong now.

I'm using Method_1_SXOS_Test_AUTORCM.zip and the only issue I've noticed is if the switch is off, and I plug it in to charge I can see the trinket powers on and remains on even after disconnecting the charger. Pressing power on the switch doesn't turn it on (appears to be in RCM mode), pressing the button on the trinket gets it to boot, or holding the switch power button will turn the trinket back off. I can see the green LED through the grille of the switch so it's easy for me to tell when the trinket is on, just wondering if that's just the way it is or if I did something wrong. Not a huge deal since it's easy to see if it's in RCM.

That's the way it is, if you suspect you are in RCM, press reset via pushing back cover our whatever... If in RCM, switch will boot. Even if it is to boot to finish the shutdown. If nothing happens, it is off.

But you can't mount it there!!! Hope that is just for testing

 

[subcon959]

How much battery drain would it cause if you charged it for a while and then unplugged the charger and forgot that the trinket is now flashing away inside waiting for another chance to send the payload?

 

[mattytrog]

How much battery drain would it cause if you charged it for a while and then unplugged the charger and forgot that the trinket is now flashing away inside waiting for another chance to send the payload?

It doesn`t flash away forever. Once switch is disconnected, the USB controller will turn off after a period of time. Have faith in it!

 

[subcon959]

It doesn`t flash away forever. Once switch is disconnected, the USB controller will turn off after a period of time. Have faith in it!

lol well it's never happened to me as I'm kind of ocd about powering off properly, but it's good to know that eventually the little git will give up.

 

[mattytrog]

lol well it's never happened to me as I'm kind of ocd about powering off properly, but it's good to know that eventually the little git will give up.

Even if worst case scenario, the switch discharges itself completely, turning its own power off, the trinket will not drain any more battery. Once charging power is applied, voltage will go to VB (Vbus) as well as VCCIN and sort things out from there. The trinket will probably flash while it is being charged, looking for Tegra. It should send automagically or just hit reset. Booted!

 

[sandog]

Method 1 or Method 3 that is the question? Needs some feed back...

 

[subcon959]

Needs some feed back...

Like a thread with lots of information and discussions about it?

 

[sandog]

lots of information is good.. There is never a stupid question only stupid people!

 

[Chm0d3r]

That's the way it is, if you suspect you are in RCM, press reset via pushing back cover our whatever... If in RCM, switch will boot. Even if it is to boot to finish the shutdown. If nothing happens, it is off.

But you can't mount it there!!! Hope that is just for testing

Yes it was just there for testing, pic is from when I was excited it worked! It's all mounted nice inside and the reset button is easy to press. Thanks!

 

[LFPereira]

A brief overview of the mod...

This is a trinket internal modification which basically replicated SX Pro dongle functionality from inside the console.

This is accomplished by running an umbilical from pin 5 (VCCIN) on the M92T36 USB 3 controller, which is the internal supply to the USB controller. This is at 3.3v and powered on from boot time and this is the most suitable place to connect the trinket. The trinket draws approx 1.4mA when pushing the payload and approx 1.1-1.2mA during sleep. The trinket disconnects when internal power to the controller cuts out. Connecting to VB (pin 9) isn`t suitable.
Mounting the trinket device itself in the air duct is fine. Airflow is not noticeably reduced due to space between the shielding and back casing, further improved by the trinket not being flat (reset button and capacitors). The LDO regulator on the trinket is not used and can be discarded if required.

Download links at bottom of OP. Read the pros and cons first near the bottom!!!

16/07/2018 UPDATE 2: Pictures updated for higher resolution. Let me know if helpful or not!

16/07/2018 UPDATE 1: Hekate 3.2 & SXOS test UF2 added. Try and report back please. This is for AutoRCM users ONLY using METHOD 1!!! Power off and reboot IN HORIZON should be working correctly now. The Hekate menu Reboot (normal) remains broken. For now. Download below... "Method_1_Hekate_3_2_Test_AUTORCM.zip" or "Method_1_SXOS_Test_AUTORCM.zip"

12/07/2018 UPDATE 1: Files for Gemma M0 added. Same installation as trinket. Different pin numbers!!! You will need to remove battery header, on/off switch and prefeably USB port without knackering up the traces from SAMD... FOLLOW METHOD 1!!! and include the extra RCM / vol straps from method 2 if you want them. Dotstar LED is now white, maximum brightness when operational. This is so you have a chance of seeing it working when switch back cover on.
Pin 0 - Goes to volume switch - Picture 1
Pin 1 - RCM strap - Picture 2
Pin 2 - Volume + strap - Picture 2... Double check it is the right one!!!
USB lines are the same as trinket - Picture 1
GND - Ground on board
3v on Gemma - Capacitor as pictured in picture 1.

10/07/2018: As a workaround for the Hekate reboot RCM problem, when in Horizon, hold down power button and rather than selecting power off or restart, just hold power button for 8 seconds. Switch turns completely off and will always reboot Hekate 3.2 added for both methods. Download attached to bottom of this post. There seems to be a difference in the power-off routines for SXOS and Hekate. If you are using Hekate with method 1 & 2, selecting power off in Hekate (and Horizon that has been booted with Hekate) will put you into RCM and won`t reboot. Holding down power for 12 seconds fixes this and boots normally. The same happens if you select restart. My testing leads me to believe that at every boot / reboot in SX OS, it turns the trinket completely off and back on, allowing a normal boot. This appears to be part of the battery recalibration routine in SXOS. I`ve been testing this all evening. So it appears that SX loader is superior as a bootloader in the case of internal installs and cold boots. Hekate is superior regarding NAND backups, patches etc etc... Just be mindful that if you are using Hekate, selecting restart will put you in RCM.

• Q - Whats the point of this thread? There are others here for trinket installs.
• A - To stop the trinket flattening the battery when switch is in storage. There are other threads here for installs. But they seem to all keep the trinket connected permanently to the battery. This is a different approach. Slightly.

*****FLASHING THE TRINKET*****

• Only the 3v Trinket M0 will work with this method. It must have a ATSAMD21 microcontroller for USB host mode purposes.
• Select your chosen method and download appropriate file from attached files. You are better off making a choice regarding UF2 files and sticking to it. Once installed, it is a pig to get the trinket in download mode using method 1 & 2.
• Double-press RESET on trinket while plugged in to PC.
• You will see a small drive open. Delete / backup whatever is on there and extract the files from your download and drag and drop to the drive.
• There are 3 files in total...
• You need the CURRENT.UF2, INDEX.HTM and INFO_UF2.TXT from the downloaded file in the TRINKETBOOT drive.
• Trinket will boot automatically
• Disconnect and proceed to an install method below
• For every internal install ever, done by whoever, the switch will not boot using the trinket when in docked mode. It will boot without it if AutoRCM is disabled. This can be an advantage to not using AutoRCM as it boots(really???)... Big BUT though... If it isn`t using the trinket, you aren`t getting CFW / hax/ homebrew.

*****METHOD 1*****

​

PICTURE 1
View attachment 136009
This is, in my opinion, the easiest way to permanently mod your switch without the Trinket flattening battery.

Get a trinket, flash it with below files of your choice.

Solder as laid out in the picture. Mount somewhere. Somewhere you can flex the panel and press reset if you need to, for checking console is off for example. I use easy-strip (with soldering iron) 40 AWG magnet wire. Secure each wire with a dab of epoxy or even superglue if you can get the tiny amount on there. If you want to that is.

You need to enable AutoRCM!!! I think we should rename AutoRCM to "AutoFuseSave" to get the message out there...

The switch will power on with a single power button press.

For method 1 & 2 - Selecting restart in the power menu will put you in RCM mode if you are running Hekate. Hold down power for 12 seconds and restart. Restart in SXOS works correctly - SHOULD BE FIXED... Try test UF2 files at the bottom of OP please!!!

You do not have to flex the back panel if you don`t need to. The console will cold-boot.

4-wire install. I recommend mounting in air duct with double sided tape (no it won`t make your processor overheat. Air flow isn`t restricted. Blow up it and see for yourself with trinket fitted. Mount it vertical. Remove USB port and solder to pads if you haven`t got a shim or something you can butcher.

IF FOR WHATEVER REASON YOU INSTALL THIS AND REBOOT TO A BLACK SCREEN, PRESS AND HOLD POWER FOR 12 SECONDS.

*****METHOD 2*****

​

PICTURE 2
View attachment 136008

If you REALLY don`t want to use AutoRCM then continue...

I recommend you use AutoRCM though to avoid burned efuses if you want to chop and change firmwares

PICTURE 3 (Blue = Power Switch) (Brown = OPTIONAL Vol+ Switch)
View attachment 136007

PICTURE 4 (Orange = RCM Strap)
View attachment 136006

3v - capacitor next to M92T36.
GND - Ground point on motherboard
Pin 3 - RCM strap (pin 10 of joycon or point on board)
Pin 4 - Ground this to reset the trinket - Designed to go to power switch return on board (so when power switch is pressed and goes to ground, this does too...)
Optional: - Pin 0 - Volume+ strap (goes to return from volume+ switch to emulate pressing vol+ to get into RCM). If you do not connect this, you will need to manually press vol+ and power on to boot to Hekate/SX. Useful to boot into OFW by default?

*****METHOD 3*****

​

The older method which involves all of the above apart from pin 4 going to the same capacitor and the trinket being permenently connected to power.
This is a current-sensing method that will use a positive voltage on pin 4 to reset the trinket.

PICTURE 5
View attachment 135051

Method 1 vs Method 2 vs Method 3 pros and cons as I see it...​

Method 1 Pros:
Doesn`t burn efuses - guaranteed as the console will not boot without payload
Doesn`t keep trinket powered all of the time, even when off like other methods do
Easy(ish) and faster install - 4 wires

Method 1 Cons:
If you don`t confirm your console is off, you might have inadvertantly put it into RCM by rebooting instead of shutting down. This will flatten your battery. This happens using Hekate only so it appears. If this happens to you, let switch charge for a good while before trying to boot. Or you might have to remove cover and disconnect/reconnect battery. And smile to yourself because your efuses are still intact. Trinket can be a pig to get back in bootloader mode once installed. It is all about timing.EDIT: HAVING SAID THAT... Try the test UF2 files for SXOS/Hekate. Should fix this.

Method 2 Pros:

If you leave out the vol+ strap, you can either boot normally (by pressing power) or SXOS/ Hekate (holding vol+ while pressing power)

Method 2 cons:

Does the trinket boot fast enough from being powered completely off? If not, a method exists (not putting it out there just yet as it involves cuttong a trace / removing a component). FEEDBACK NEEDED ON THIS METHOD AS IT IS AT THE MOMENT PLEASE!!! Logic dictates to me that the trinket cannot load fast enough.

​

Method 2 & 3 Pros:

Avoids AutoRCM so you can never forget it is in RCM

Method 2 & 3 Cons:

Potential to burn efuses if trinket decides not to boot, rendering your hard-work efuse-safe upgrade useless (finding keys, finding cartridges/firmware, etc etc)
Kids will come to you asking why you can`t pick a game out of the album as it has booted into OFW. Ruining your peace and quiet.
More wires... More soldering, more traces to burn, more headaches
More time... The wife/husband/pet will be more pissed off because you are taking a long time to do it...

Method 3 Pros:

Achieving Trinket bootloader mode can be somewhat easier after installation

Method 3 Cons:

Trinket will keep trickle-draining your battery as the PMIC at present is not configured to turn off that part of the board upon power-off

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak and everyone else for valuable input.​

Disclaimer:

You only have yourself to blame... What worked for me may work differently for you. I`m not responsible if you knacker your switch. This modification voids your warranty!

Would it work with Digispark ATtiny85?

uploads.filipeflop.com/2017/07/1-26-600x600.jpg

 

[mooglazer]

Quick question, once the mod is installed/working, is there a convenient way to inject other payloads as needed, say biskey/briccmii/etc? Or should they simply be run through SX?

 

[mooglazer]

Nice. I`d clean that flux off though

Thanks lol, it's going inside the case (and for personal use) so I'm not as OCD as I would be if it were for someone else [emoji4]

 

[mattytrog]

Quick question, once the mod is installed/working, is there a convenient way to inject other payloads as needed, say biskey/briccmii/etc? Or should they simply be run through SX?

Run through SX. You can double-press reset when on Horizon homescreen and program trinket that way

 

[Nopt]

Do I really have to remove the usb port ? that seems tedious
I was thinking about cutting a USB cable in half and soldering it to the switch, and plug the other end in the USB port

 

[64Dp128k]

Do I really have to remove the usb port ? that seems tedious
I was thinking about cutting a USB cable in half and soldering it to the switch, and plug the other end in the USB port[/QUOT

Had a bit if an issue redid the whole install used some glue, toothpick was put to good use! Cheers op. Also my make shift shim was getting loose so I just soldered it together.

All good.