Hardware I have lifted pads! :-( ..... Any hope....

[lpoolm]

SO schoolboy error, lifted two pads (and one folded a bit but probably ok)

I am not bad at soldering etc but I have struggle fitting these ports, its not as easy as all of the videos seem to show!



I found the following youtube video:
if you go to 11.00 of the vid it shows readings for the pins, however not sure what OL means?

So is it a scrap board or do I have some hope?

Any tips would be great..

 

[linuxares]

Yes, but only one side will work in the USB-C. @mattytrog you got any tips?

 

[xYuunax]

you could scrape the board and expose the bare copper and solder a short wire to connect the pins on the usb C connector

 

[linuxares]

you could scrape the board and expose the bare copper and solder a short wire to connect the pins on the usb C connector

What he means are scrap the traces to those slots and solder directly on it.

 

[lpoolm]

Yes, but only one side will work in the USB-C. @mattytrog you got any tips?

that might not be the end of the world but depending on the side it might not recognise when docking?

 

[linuxares]

that might not be the end of the world but depending on the side it might not recognise when docking?

Then it's just to turn it around

 

[lpoolm]

you could scrape the board and expose the bare copper and solder a short wire to connect the pins on the usb C connector

What he means are scrap the traces to those slots and solder directly on it.

i did think this but after zooming in on the board I can not really see any traces running from it, I assume the traces would run up so could scrape 1mil above the pad hoping that that taps into it?

 

[linuxares]

i did think this but after zooming in on the board I can not really see any traces running from it, I assume the traces would run up so could scrape 1mil above the pad hoping that that taps into it?

Then they did the dirty move to have the traces inside the board.

 

[lpoolm]

Then they did the dirty move to have the traces inside the board.

thanks for your input.
I am having a break from it now, might return to it tomorrow!

 

[xYuunax]

i did think this but after zooming in on the board I can not really see any traces running from it, I assume the traces would run up so could scrape 1mil above the pad hoping that that taps into it?

Trying to find schematics with no luck, but there could be test points (alternative pads) you might be able to solder a wire to the new connector, I think you should wait for someone more experienced to offer advise and/or pictures for alternative points.

Maybe contact the guy from the TronicsFix youtube channel? he fixes alot of switches, so he could potentially offer you advise? doesn't hurt to ask.

 

[lpoolm]

Trying to find schematics with no luck, but there could be test points (alternative pads) you might be able to solder a wire to the new connector, I think you should wait for someone more experienced to offer advise and/or pictures for alternative points.

Maybe contact the guy from the TronicsFix youtube channel? he fixes alot of switches, so he could potentially offer you advise? doesn't hurt to ask.

yer thanks, I like his videos, will see if I can get in touch!

 

[FAST6191]

I have not got a pinout to hand (or any for that matter) and that picture and step 12 of https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nintendo+Switch+Teardown/78263 is not detailed enough to make anything out. You say there are no obvious traces leading away though.

If you are lucky then the half peeled one can be stuck back down and the other two that are gone with be not connected (NC on many diagrams) or part of a shared ground or common positive and you can leave them as is. If they are not and you can not see a trace leading out then is there a spec of copper/gold/something metallic in the remains? If there is then they probably attached directly to a via. You would then have to find an alternative point and run a wire to it.
What I can see on the ifixit thing has a whole lump of presumably ground plane on the back layer of the board.

Assuming it is the normal shooting off pins that most double stack connectors employ from the connector then it is either A2 and A10 or B11 and B3 that have been removed, all of which are members of the communications setups if https://components101.com/connectors/usb-type-c-connector-pinout-datasheet is anything to go by. Good news is the USB chip if you had to go there is fairly close by on the other side, and looks like it has exposed pins (no BGA or annoying socket) or possibly even some nice resistors to solder to (looking at a basic datasheet for the USB chip https://www.mouser.co.uk/pdfDocs/PI3USB30532-DB.pdf those resistors are fairly high value to presumably pull it low).

 

[mattytrog]

Easily fixed. They are just duplicated from the other trace.

Only snag is which side connects to the trace on the mid layer on the board...

Just needs belling out with a dmm and linking. But I have a feeling it is connected to the lower (intact) pin. Will check on a scrapper when I get home tonight.

Self adhesive copper tape works well. Trim with Stanley blade. Tin onto other trace.

If struggling, let me know

 

[lpoolm]

Thanks that's great, if you don't mind checking for me when you get a minute I really appreciate it!

 

[lpoolm]

sorry to bump an old thread but just found this in my spares draw and wanted to see if I can save it. Not touched since the tips above.
@mattytrog is this below what you mean? If i can link the two rows together?

thanks

 

[Fixyourtechnology]

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd share. Here 's a pin-out of top and bottom pads but you can't just join up top and bottom. The diagrams below are for the HAC-CPU-10 board.
There are a few other diagrams online, but this is the one that I created and use for every repair that I have done. It has never steered me wrong (yet ).