How to fix a Nintendo 64 Controller's loose Analogue Stick

I bought countless replacements that either sucked big time or died soon after some smash bros or mario party. So I was looking for a way to make those old analog stick modules playable again and now I finally found it:



I am very satisfied with my result, since you can probably repeat indefinitely, in case it gets too loose again.
Hopefully, this works for you just as fine as it did for me!

P.S. I hope it's fine to post about this twice, since I can't really create a symbolic link for my other thread in here ^^
 
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Walker D

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Cool ..that seems to be a good fix actually (better than the ones I have seen using paper...) ...have you done it? ..and did you use some kind of epoxy or the same product shown in the video?
 

Öhr

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Cool ..that seems to be a good fix actually (better than the ones I have seen using paper...) ...have you done it? ..and did you use some kind of epoxy or the same product shown in the video?
that is my video :)

also, the product is epoxy based.

the one i bought is this:
http://www.amazon.de/QuikSteel-Metall-Modellierbare-Spezial-Reparaturmasse-Stahl/dp/B005554WUO/

but since thats german, heres also the amazon.com one:
http://www.amazon.com/16002-QuikSte...TF8&qid=1371592087&sr=8-1&keywords=quicksteel

but there are two major difference. first: its not called metal or aluminium (there are two version of that product on amazon.de) and the second one is, that the amazon.com only needs 15mins to harden. mine takes at least an hour though...

edit: seems to be identical, just different wording. the official website lists both times:
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/b..._reinforced_epoxy_putty_2_oz_24_unit_display/
 

Öhr

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played around with alternatives today:

Fimo (clay that hardens at 110°C/230°F) also works pretty well. The white plastic does not melt or deform at these temperatures, so rest assured! It is also much easier to install (same way as the epoxy in my video), but I prefer the feel of the epoxy stuff. Dunno about how well fimo will do on the long run, but it doesn't seem to be that bad thus far :-)

EDIT:
I can no longer recommend using Fimo. Issue is, that it sucks up the water you use. Fimo itself won't change its shape when drying, but when its mixed with water it will. Thus, it won't properly fill the scratched of area as well as the epoxy stuff did (way looser unfortunately). It does still work an a nice quick fix, but still: do it properly the first time around :)

EDIT:
totally forgot to edit my post... I redid fimo and my second attempt was much better. Fimo is the cheaper and probably better alternative, but much harder to apply unfortunately!
 

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