My order from GuliKit that they identified as the newest version has been shipped out! I know the cheapest they offer is the quantity 50. I’ll report back when I get these! Glad to see continued improvement on these.
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Switch pro sticks, I may be tempted actually seeing after ton of hours of mario kart it got a drift
(if I leave it without moving for like a second)
Original sticks? Try calibrate them and may be fixed.
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Not, GuliKit works for this.
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nah I tried, it just like wjen I do nothin it progressively goes to the down left
I tried calibrating cleaning etc nothing changed it sadly
If this is the original joystick and you don't want to replace the controller, you can only buy a replacement joystick from the market first and replace it yourself.
they have any bulit in calibration? or i need to add some potetiometer to them? Or iam that stupid and i still dont know how to calibrate dualsens and sualshock 4
?
that ones on aliexpress have a basic mechanical calibration putting a needle on the potentiometers to move the magnets, but in some cases you could need that flexible PCBs which solder underneath.they have any bulit in calibration? or i need to add some potetiometer to them? Or iam that stupid and i still dont know how to calibrate dualsens and sualshock 4
If dualsense or dualshock, i don't know how to calibrate them also.they have any bulit in calibration? or i need to add some potetiometer to them? Or iam that stupid and i still dont know how to calibrate dualsens and sualshock 4
Hello there, I just discovered what TuberViejuner a Spanish youtuber made a review of the Gulikit Hall Effect Sticks for Nintendo Switch.
For the spanish speakers from Temp could be a good review and test before buy the sticks.
For the spanish speakers from Temp could be a good review and test before buy the sticks.
@AKNES I hope your Amazon store gets these soon, I got my shipment in today, I did in fact use the order link Gulikit sent and got the newest version. It’s hard to see but the ribbon cable has NS40 printed on it, these are leaps and bounds improved, the sticks aren’t slippery, they calibrate easier, and so far all have worked, so awesome!
Edit: while they are all new sticks, the new caps must not be all assembly lines yet, only about 20% of my order has the closer to OEM cap, but still an improvement!
Edit: while they are all new sticks, the new caps must not be all assembly lines yet, only about 20% of my order has the closer to OEM cap, but still an improvement!
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Just wanna pop in to say that I have installed these in both my joy cons (along with a D-Pad) and they pretty much work perfectly. Just make sure to recalibrate them, and you may want to get a grip for the sticks as there's less friction than the official ones.
Sorry, not sure I understand. But any decent third-party caps or thumb grips should work just fine.
Ahh. I'm not sure tbh. Maybe the old caps? They certainly don't feel like my newer joy cons.
Ah old caps, there is a version with caps that feel identical to Nintendo caps, I have no magic way to get these yet, my latest order of 10 only had 2 sets with the newer cap, hopefully in time they roll it out to all.
You are really professional.
The new version is indeed not an assembly line production at present, and we are still working hard to convert it to fully automated production.
Hello there, I know it so late, but after getting to work my Xbox series controller I have some opinions and improvements for the product.
Will be nice if you can use a Computer program to upgrade the firmware (or recovery in case of a failed upgrade) directly by USB. and or and computer program similar to KeyLinker, I prefer my PC than my Phone for that type of things.
Definetively the battery and wireless LEDs indicators will be better pointing to the front of the controller.
Again @AKNES Thanks a lot for the opportunity of test this great product, I am very happy with it.
By the way I forget to mention what the original box of the RetroFlag is perfect to store the original battery lid of the controller.
- First, The packaging although it is austere it is great, appealing to the eye, well packaged, all elements are in the correct place, and no space wasting.
- The construction of the device is top of the class, the device finishing are beautiful, the size of the buttons are perfect and once installed on the controller they looks like was originally designed.
- In my case the external finishing is exactly the same of the controller so you never will note what is an add on.
- The overall weight of the device (including the battery) is ridiculous, you can't tell you add so many functions to the controller because is almost no weight added.
- The feature of override the R Stick with accelerometers is mind blowing.
- The user manual is a little bit confusing. I am not English native speaker but can understand written English very good. I think the text of the manual could be improved or make it a little more clear. Will describe more in deep later. Also you could include a QR for an online extended version of the user manual.
- The first time the battery level reported on Switch console is not correct, I did needed two charge - discharge cycles to start reporting OK.
- On X mode Windows do not report the battery level, at least on Windows 11.
- For me the "Eject" icon on the RetroFlag is enough to make friction in order to remove the RetroFlag from controller.
- On the user manual does not indicate the way you can turn on the switch console from controller, I found by chance you can turn on the console easy:
- With controller off, RetroFlag switch on "." position and console turn off. The controller was previously paired to console.
- put the RetroFlag switch on "S" position
- The console Will turn on automatically
- or
- Console turn off, Controller turn off, RetroFlag already on "S" position but turned off by timeout or from console.
- Press any of the RetroFlag buttons, Wireless or Fn; or toggle the RetroFlag switch to "." and then back to "S" position.
- The settings for "Turbo" and "Auto" and how to disable it is a little bit messed on the manual, as far I did got from experience:
- To turn on "Turbo" mode on a button, you press and keep pressed the RetoFlag FN button and then also press the controller button you want to activate turbo mode, then release booth of them. Now when you press and keep pressed that controller button the button keeps repeating on the console.
- While a controller button is on "Turbo"mode you can activate "Auto" mode; press and keep pressed the RetroFlag FN button and then press a controller button which is on turbo mode, then release booth of them, now each time you press the controller button the state of the repeating button press on console.
- repeating the process on the same button you cancel the "Auto" mode.
- For cancel the all "Turbo" and "Auto" mode for all controller buttons you simply press twice (like double click) the RetroFlag FN button.
- On the Macro definition section is no too clear how to end the macro definition.
- Is clear you need to press and keep pressed the RetroFlag FN button and press either the MR or ML button, then release booth to start recording a macro, you press the combination of buttons you want to be assigned to MR or ML button, and then you press again the correspondent MR or ML button to stop recording and save the macro. also something important what is no on the manual is the macro recording keeps track of the duration for pressing a button and the time between the next button.
Will be nice if you can use a Computer program to upgrade the firmware (or recovery in case of a failed upgrade) directly by USB. and or and computer program similar to KeyLinker, I prefer my PC than my Phone for that type of things.
Definetively the battery and wireless LEDs indicators will be better pointing to the front of the controller.
Again @AKNES Thanks a lot for the opportunity of test this great product, I am very happy with it.
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By the way I forget to mention what the original box of the RetroFlag is perfect to store the original battery lid of the controller.
Last edited by impeeza,
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