Gaming Cracked DS lite case, suggestions for parts

teh_ryn

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Also, I know it's probably too late for OP, but just in case anyone else stumbles across this thread in the same boat:

The shell I used for my shell swap I bought from Nintendo Repair Shop, here. I've seen this same shell "around"--on ebay and whatnot. It's a pretty generic cheap aftermarket shell. It actually fit together pretty well, but the plastic is definitely not as high quality as the original casing; you could really feel the screws biting into the super soft/cheap plastic. Also the buttons do seem a bit "clicky" compared to the originals, which bothers some people (but not me). I am tempted to order a few different cases off of eachgame to compare the quality of them, but I'm only going to do that if I end up putting together a larger order so the shipping is justified.
 

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Hey, how did this turn out? How do you even replace just the ribbon cable? I haven't seen any guides that don't just replace the entire LCD.

I think I may have borked my ribbon cable while performing a full shell swap on a DS Lite last night (it was my very first time getting into the top piece, so first time handling the ribbon :( ). I have to check it when I get home from work and see if it's damaged or if I just didn't put it in all the way. But the system turns on and stays on and the top LCD displays all white and then a bunch of color bands appear starting from the top of the screen, so I have a feeling I owned that poor cable.

Even if repairing the ribbon cable is out of my league I'd still be interested in knowing how it is done, if you wouldn't mind sharing info. The whole reason I decided to repair a broken DS Lite rather than buying a working one was to have fun taking it apart and learning about it. :)


The ribbon cables came in, but I'm finishing out my last week of the college semester. After that, it's a hectic/busy week of going to this wine tasting with my girlfriend, then helping with the shearing at this alpaca farm that I work at, and after that, a week bringing my girlfriend back to college (even though she graduated) to finish her neurophys research project.

After all of that is said and done, I'll be back home and become a vegetative videogame zombie who occasionally drags his ass out of the chair to go to that dreaded thing called work, and also try to get some exercise in so I can look like a little less of a slob than I usually do. During that time I'll be trying to do the ribbon replacement. I looked at one of the replacement screens that I also got, and the ribbon goes in between two halves of the metal enclosure for the LCD. If that simply holds the ribbon in place, it might be a very simple fix, just popping the screen apart, pulling out the old ribbon, and taping down the new one. If you have to solder it though, I probably don't have the means nor skill to do that and will try my hardest to not cry myself to sleep over the $3 I wasted on them.

Pics of the ribbons, front and back, click to expand (imgur):


 

teh_ryn

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I looked at one of the replacement screens that I also got, and the ribbon goes in between two halves of the metal enclosure for the LCD. If that simply holds the ribbon in place, it might be a very simple fix, just popping the screen apart, pulling out the old ribbon, and taping down the new one. If you have to solder it though, I probably don't have the means nor skill to do that and will try my hardest to not cry myself to sleep over the $3 I wasted on them.

Yeah, this is mainly what I was wondering: how does the ribbon connect to the LCD? I'm also not keen on soldering. And considering how badly I may or may not have treated my cable in my shell swap I'm not too keen on opening up the top again to investigate the connection to the LCD... at least, until I can rule out connection issues. If my ribbon cable is damaged after all, I'll take a look at it tonight.

BTW, I think it's cool that you're trying to fix them up for profit and I wish you luck on that. I considered it, more for fun than profit, but if I could turn a profit why the heck not, right? But after running some numbers I decided that it's kind of risky with very small profit margins and with the DS Lite being an older system the demand isn't super high (so there's risk of sitting on stock or an ebay listing not pulling in fair market value). I'll share with you my personal thoughts and findings.

My assumptions were $20-30 for a broken system off ebay (the ones that work but have a broken hinge go for more than ones with power issues or cracked lcds, of course) (also most don't come with power chargers, some are missing styluses, etc.), and, disappointly, anywhere from $45 to $70 for a used DS Lite. So if you assume buying and selling at those rates, once you factor in parts, you might be able to eke out a profit margin but only if you order all your parts in bulk from China and use them all up perfectly and so on.

Buying systems that are fully functional with broken hinges is the least risky purchase you can make--the first broken DS Lite I purchased had a power issue that, as described, sounded like it was going to be a simple F1/F2 fuse fix. When I got the item I discovered that some sticky liquid substance (presumably juice) had leaked in through the GBA slot (there was some slight stickiness left there, and the water damage indicator on the board near that slot was activated) and fried the chip on the motherboard. It smelled burnt, and when you opened up the shell you could see scorch marks on the chip. Now it wasn't a total loss because the shell is in extremely good condition, I got a battery out of it if nothing else, and I actually think the LCDs and such are probably fine. But if you were considering re-selling this unit, you would have to put in, at the very least, a new motherboard, which is, cheapest I saw, $28, shipping included. For that price you can snag a working system with a hinge problem--which is exactly what I did--and use its motherboard and salvage the extra parts.

So on that note something I've noticed is, is that most of the time I think that salvaging parts and selling them would net you a much higher profit than a working system--assuming you could sell your stock and not be left sitting on a few parts. However, the market is pretty flooded with parts so there's that to consider...

Anyway I could ramble on and on about this because I found the whole thing quite fascinating, and I love cost-breakdown-analysis type stuff, but I don't want to bore you / get too far off topic from the original post. :) On the other hand if you'd like to continue this discussion in a PM or something I'd be fine with that; I will share whatever I know freely because like I said, I wasn't actually that concerned with profit and I don't think I'll be pursuing this route for money. Similarly, I picked up a 3DS XL with a broken top LCD to tinker with so I could talk a little bit about the potential market and costs there, since I looked into that as well.
 
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Sicklyboy

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I've dropped about a total of $45, maybe $50 on 4 systems.

DS Phat sold "as is", seller couldn't test it. Works flawlessly. Needs a new case and a stylus, and it's good to go.
DS Phat, cracked hinge, power issue (likely a blown f1/f2), no stylus, haven't been able to test it beyond that diagnosis. Just needs a new case, I'll bridge the fuses, stylii are cheap.
DS Lite, (I think it had a cracked hinge), needs a new top screen (red tinge, don't think a new ribbon would fix it). Stylus, digitizer, top screen, case (scratched anyway).
DS Lite, terrible condition. New case, new top LCD (or possibly a ribbon), battery, stylus, button pads (I think one of the cases came with them though), shoulder buttons, possibly a new digitizer.

I also bought and will be including an off-brand charger for each one, I got em for like just over a buck a piece off of eachgame (or maybe under a buck a piece?). So how I see it, I'm spending an average of $15 per console and putting an average of $10 worth of repairs into them. Some a little more, some a little less. I'll try to sell them at the flea market, include my business card with them (just self run hobbyist computer and game console repair, nothing actually "official" as the state would see it) and include a self-made serial number with each one and give a 90 day parts warranty on them. They'll look brand new because they essentially will be. I'm thinking I could get $40-$50 on the phats and maybe $50-$65 on the lites.

I won't be getting rich off of it, and I obviously haven't sold any yet to back my numbers, so it's all speculative. But it'll be fun. I like doing this stuff.
 

teh_ryn

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Yeah, if you have a place to sell them aside from ebay you could probably get more for them. Heck, gamestop's price on used DS Lites is $89.99! If you can get $50-60 per system then you have a lot more wiggle room on what you can spend on parts and still make a profit. You can afford to spend $6 or so for a replacement shell on each one. And as long as you order from eachgame and order for 4-5 systems at a time, you should be good to go. The other nice thing about operating offline is that you have the potential to handle returns and warranties and the like without taking a hit on shipping costs, if the customer is close enough and willing to exchange the item in person.

I do have one concern. You said you planned to bridge the fuses, and if you're dead set on doing this it would probably be 'fine' for what you plan to do, but if it were me I wouldn't feel comfortable selling someone a system I did that to. Replacing the fuse does require a decent amount of soldering experience, but it's just the "right" way to repair it and decreases the chances of your system shorting out before its time. But business-wise, odds are it'll last past your 90 day warranty.

Are the serial numbers for your tracking purposes or are you trying to fake Nintendo serials? I wouldn't be comfortable doing the latter. On the other hand if you have legit serials and are just reprinting them to put on the new shells, even if the serial isn't good for anything anymore (just Nintendo warranty and Club Nintendo points, or is there more to it than that? because assuming that's all it's good for, the warranty on a DSL or phat will probably be long out of its time and no one should expect to get Club Nintendo points on a used system because it may have been registered already) that's a good idea because it helps lend credibility--some people are turned off by a serial-less product.

I'm not familiar with the going rate on phats, so I can't speak to those, but $50 for 4 systems seems pretty good. Did you pick them up on ebay or elsewhere? There aren't really any convenient opportunities for me to acquire systems locally, so I'm stuck foraging on ebay.
 

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Yeah I got them off of ebay.

The serials would be made just for identification purposed by me, I'd track what serial was sold, when it was sold, condition, and how much, just for tracking the 3 months parts warranty.

I'm not too concerned with the fuses being bridged, but I'll look into any negative consequences for doing so. So far I haven't found anything.

Also, back on topic reminder sorta - if you do end up replacing your screen, you're going to need to desolder your old speakers and solder them to the new screen unless you buy a screen with the speakers already attached. It's two wires for each speaker, very easy solder job. DX is the only place I've seen that carried the screen with the speakers, and that was a while ago. I don't shop there too much anymore.
 

teh_ryn

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Update on my system: I took it apart and put the ribbon cable in again, this time making sure it was in all the way. It worked! Well... the screen, anyway. I stuck a DS cartridge in the system and it wouldn't recognize it. I'm not actually sure if that's new or if it came that way.. oops. Silly, I know, but thinking back I didn't actually test a cartridge in it, just turned it on and then off again and started taking it apart. I was just too excited.

Anyway, regarding the bridging, it will work, but you are effectively negating the entire purpose of a fuse, which is to blow when something goes wrong electrically before the other, expensive parts are harmed. When the fuse is bridged, you are making the system vulnerable to any future power surges or any other electrical mishaps that could occur naturally. Instead of just a fuse blowing you could lose the motherboard, LCD, you name it.

See this:
 

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A new housing replacement will replace the hinge, as well. The hinge isn't its own piece, it's actually part of either side of the upper half of the console. I -think- that the piece that broke on yours is the inner-upper half, but in any case, a new housing will fix it.

You'll need a triwing screwdriver to get anything done with it, too.

eachgame.com has the best prices I've found on the housings and such so far, however shipping is not free and it is as painstakingly slow as most other Chinese distributors.

Tmart has them for slightly more, but they also have a warehouse in NJ so you'll get it faster (free shipping, but if you live in NJ you'll get sales tax)

DX has them too but tends to be the worst in all areas except the price of the shipping.
I never really had a problem with eachgame when I ordered my Red Dragon DS Lite shell. It took about a week and a half to arrive - a far cry from the month it took to ship a NES game from the central US using USPS.
 

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teh_ryn

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Update on my system: I took it apart and put the ribbon cable in again, this time making sure it was in all the way. It worked! Well... the screen, anyway. I stuck a DS cartridge in the system and it wouldn't recognize it. I'm not actually sure if that's new or if it came that way.. oops. Silly, I know, but thinking back I didn't actually test a cartridge in it, just turned it on and then off again and started taking it apart. I was just too excited.

Uh, so, I decided to clean slot 1 with some rubbing alcohol and lo and behold, even though it didn't seem dirty, games now work.. *flex*
 
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loco365

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This shell? http://images.bidorbuy.co.za/user_images/186/451186_111111021854_ds_lite_dragon_housing1.jpg

How do you like it? Did it fit together well, come without defects in the plastic, etc.? Is the plastic fairly malleable (inside the case) or is it on par with the original ds lite case?
Yeah, that's the one. It fit together really nicely, but then, it's an official case for the iQue Lite, so it'll fit very snugly, as good as an official shell. I only have a few minor issues in the back where the two halves of the bottom meet (Probably my fault), but other than that, the only issues are ribbon cable issues that I'm trying to address.
 
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teh_ryn

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I only have a few minor issues in the back where the two halves of the bottom meet (Probably my fault), but other than that, the only issues are ribbon cable issues that I'm trying to address.

What issues are you having with the ribbon cables? Anything we can do to help or are you just waiting on parts to arrive?
 

loco365

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What issues are you having with the ribbon cables? Anything we can do to help or are you just waiting on parts to arrive?
I just don't have them in correctly. The screen has a bit of an odd flicker, and when I fold it shut at just the right position, the screens go all crazy and stuff.
 

ShadowNeko003

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That ribbon cable is a beast. When I was trying to fit it into of the bottom shell, the corner tear a bit. Off to order a new screen. And everything was going perfectly too!
 

Sicklyboy

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I mean, I'm not going to advise against a DSTWO, they're wonderful little things. But for the sake of having a system with speakers still it's a tiny bit unnecessary.

But let's see.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-DS-Lite-Complete-Top-LCD-Screen-Speakers-/270669809060 - Used, "minor scratches.

DX used to sell them iirc but I can't find them anymore, and none of the other sites I shop sell them.

Worst case scenario, if you feel comfortable doing so, you could mail me the old screen and the new one and I'll swap the speakers over for you (or you could go so far as to just send me the whole console and I'll get everything going and repaired for you). Google search on the screen with the speakers has turned up very little though.

I take it you're not comfortable doing the soldering? You can get a pretty good idea of how it'll be off of that ebay pic, it's just 4 solder points, 2 for each speaker. Just don't put the wrong wires in the wrong spots.
 

ShadowNeko003

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I've never soldered anything before. I do have access to a soldering tool that I can borrow. Judging from a video from NintendoRepairShop, I would just have to heat the tool up, apply the tool lightly to the wires, and they come off?
 

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Correct. You'd want to go with nothing higher than a 30w iron, a 15w would be good too. Let it heat up, probably about ten minutes, and just touch the wires on the solder joint until the solder heats up and melts, then you can pull the wire out. You'll probably need to tin the new pads (drop a little solder on them), will probably need some flux too (helps draw the solder in). If you have to hold the iron to it for longer than maybe two seconds, it's not hot enough and you need a more powerful iron. (I don't think they use tin solder though, it ought to be leaded, which 15/30 is fine for)
 
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