Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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eMikey

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Please let me know if I have this correct.

I'm using a Trinket M0. My goal is to always boot in to CFW (SXOS) unless I hold the reset button down on the Trinket M0 to boot in to OFW. "Version 2"

Step 1. Download Trinket_Rebug_Bootloader_Pack.zip Extract and flash the trinket with "Version_2_trinket_rebug_both_straps.uf2" Once Trinket (switchboot) windows goes away and opens back up, the info_uf2 says "UF2 Bootloader -Joycon and Vol+ Straps. Permanent boot into CFW. Hold RESET on device during power-on for OFW boot"


Step 2. Download "Trinket_Rebug_Bootloaders.zip" and flash with "Step_1_Version_2_both.uf2" Once back up the info_uf2 says "UF2 Bootloader -Joycon and Vol+ Straps. Permanent boot into CFW. Hold RESET on device during power-on for OFW boot"


Step 3. From "Trinket_Rebug_Bootloaders.zip" flash the Trinket M0 with "Step_2_Trinket_Rebug_basic.UF2"

Trinket (Switchboot) goes away for good..
 

mattytrog

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Please let me know if I have this correct.

I'm using a Trinket M0. My goal is to always boot in to CFW (SXOS) unless I hold the reset button down on the Trinket M0 to boot in to OFW. "Version 2"

Step 1. Download Trinket_Rebug_Bootloader_Pack.zip Extract and flash the trinket with "Version_2_trinket_rebug_both_straps.uf2" Once Trinket (switchboot) windows goes away and opens back up, the info_uf2 says "UF2 Bootloader -Joycon and Vol+ Straps. Permanent boot into CFW. Hold RESET on device during power-on for OFW boot"


Step 2. Download "Trinket_Rebug_Bootloaders.zip" and flash with "Step_1_Version_2_both.uf2" Once back up the info_uf2 says "UF2 Bootloader -Joycon and Vol+ Straps. Permanent boot into CFW. Hold RESET on device during power-on for OFW boot"


Step 3. From "Trinket_Rebug_Bootloaders.zip" flash the Trinket M0 with "Step_2_Trinket_Rebug_basic.UF2"

Trinket (Switchboot) goes away for good..
Correct.

Sorry everybody Ive not been around for as much as I want.

Had consoles to fix. And a missus to keep happy by not doing anything electronics related.

New chainloader ready for release almost. No 0 folder or nx files needed. Hekate fallback if no file present. Yep it's coming.

Just need to get my bloke shit sorted before I get skinned alive for destroying the kitchen. Workshop too cold this time of year :(
 
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jasongan

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I am totally tired on my switch console I send it to the technician shop change up charging ic, when it change finish console can open it main screen,still cannot charge then change USB port .Now black screen at all.. he told me my console problem it true?why type c get it totally loss ...Matt can u found something ?
 

mattytrog

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I am totally tired on my switch console I send it to the technician shop change up charging ic, when it change finish console can open it main screen,still cannot charge then change USB port .Now black screen at all.. he told me my console problem it true?why type c get it totally loss ...Matt can u found something ?

Sounds like you took it to somebody who doesn`t know what they are doing.

You need to make sure the new USB port is fitted correctly.

You changed charging IC? BQ24193?
 

josete2k

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Hi, I have one RCMX86 internal and I wish to install it in a few days.

Sorry if this is an answered question but, can I access to te recovery mode (VOL- VOL+ and POWER) with the 5 wires installation diagram?

As I see, the console will enter in RCM when VOL+ and POWER will be pushed because the autojig option (the wire to joycon's pin10), isn't it?
 

Nazosan

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I have a question if I might. I have a friend who wants a "modchip" (I really hate calling payload deliverers things that.) I was going to do the SwitchMe like I put in my own, but they're completely out of stock on the worldwide seller and I'm in the US, so while the EU sellers have it in stock that doesn't help very much. I'm thinking of just doing the Trinket M0 since it's even on Amazon. Based on what I know I presume it's basically the exact same thing other than the fact that the USB connector is just supremely in the way and D+/- have only the tiny pins of that connector to use? (Well, I am a tad concerned with how hard it will be to solder to those pins, but at least it's only data.) One thing I wanted to ask: will it use the same exact UF2 files? I actually would rather just put Hekate on there to keep it as simple as possible for them. They've been keeping an up-to-date Hekate UF2 on their Github and it would be nice if I could just use that with a Trinket.

Oh, and I'm pretty sure the answer is yes, but just to verify, they've come up with the idea to use a point on the NAND PCB to power the 3v3 (picture below.) It's actually a relatively large contact compared to the rest (and a heck of a lot better than trying to solder to that capacitor.) I presume I can use that for the Trinket too? Just double checking there aren't different requirements or anything (ok, why would there be, but given it's not even mentioned here I wanted to double check.)

I wish I could get another SwitchMe since it has those very nice contacts with no USB connector to deal with, but who knows when they'll ever get it back in stock (yeah, it could be today, but it could also be months.) It's ultimately up to him and he seemed fairly comfortable with waiting at least a little while, but I don't want him to have to wait too long nonetheless and it goes without saying that the Trinket M0 is just so very close to being almost literally the exact same thing.
 

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So after getting everything installed I go to start and nothing comes up on the screen. My dumb ass bent the screen ribbon cable clamp pins. Any one know of a thread or post that addresses this kind of shitty mistake? If not does any one have any suggestions?
 

mattytrog

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So after getting everything installed I go to start and nothing comes up on the screen. My dumb ass bent the screen ribbon cable clamp pins. Any one know of a thread or post that addresses this kind of shitty mistake? If not does any one have any suggestions?
You need to replace the FFC connector. Parts should be available from mouser.
 

eMikey

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That site is a little overwhelming. There are a lot of options to filter thru.

Is this a .5 or .3 pitch?

EDIT: Apparently these are not available. Found a dude in China that has a few off of other switch mainboards.
 
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mattytrog

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That site is a little overwhelming. There are a lot of options to filter thru.

Is this a .5 or .3 pitch?

EDIT: Apparently these are not available. Found a dude in China that has a few off of other switch mainboards.
They are .5 pitch each side, which makes 0.25 pitch you need to be looking for. 53 way. Molex 503300-5310 should fit. But are discontinued.
 

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Can I at least double check about the power source definitely being compatible? I mean, I'm 99% sure it is, but I just would feel a lot better if it could be confirmed is all. (I don't know if this thing might have different power requirements or anything -- maybe use more current or something.)
 

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Can I at least double check about the power source definitely being compatible? I mean, I'm 99% sure it is, but I just would feel a lot better if it could be confirmed is all. (I don't know if this thing might have different power requirements or anything -- maybe use more current or something.)

The Trinket and the Switchme are the same electrically. They both attach to the stabilised / regulated / clean 3v rail that goes all over the board. 1-2mA draw.
 
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mur1l0gs

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HELP!
In the SwitchMe fitting method, I see the Joycon strap is marked as two orange circles, I don't get if I have to solder only one of those options or them together. In other mod chips you just marked the left one, I got confused by this. Thanks in adv.
 

mattytrog

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HELP!
In the SwitchMe fitting method, I see the Joycon strap is marked as two orange circles, I don't get if I have to solder only one of those options or them together. In other mod chips you just marked the left one, I got confused by this. Thanks in adv.

Solder one or both. Makes no difference. They are linked
 

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