Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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living

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I can easily access the TRINKETBOOT with a double click, then I drag the CURRENT.UF2 file but then I can not find the SWITCHBOOT or REBUGBOOT unit, the same TRINKETBOOT unit appears again, I try to wait 1 sg between pressing and pressing. but the same unit always appears ..

(to say that the chip is installed in the console and well connected through the USB.,., since it detects me the TRINKETBOOT ...)

What I can do? Thank you
 

mattytrog

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I can easily access the TRINKETBOOT with a double click, then I drag the CURRENT.UF2 file but then I can not find the SWITCHBOOT or REBUGBOOT unit, the same TRINKETBOOT unit appears again, I try to wait 1 sg between pressing and pressing. but the same unit always appears ..

(to say that the chip is installed in the console and well connected through the USB.,., since it detects me the TRINKETBOOT ...)

What I can do? Thank you
A few pages back, I posted the stock trinket bootloader. Drag that to the UF2 drive then try again.

Failing that, check you have a good GND connection
 

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to see I drag the CURRENT.UF2 to the TRINKETBOOT ..- and when overwriting the file that was, the unit is closed, indicating that it has been recorded, but it does not give me the option to open the second unit to write the chainloader.

if GND were bad, the TRINKETBOOT would not open either?
 

mattytrog

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to see I drag the CURRENT.UF2 to the TRINKETBOOT ..- and when overwriting the file that was, the unit is closed, indicating that it has been recorded, but it does not give me the option to open the second unit to write the chainloader.

if GND were bad, the TRINKETBOOT would not open either?
If the GND was crap, it could fail to flash. Noise on the digital lines or if the samd requires more current to flash than to read. I'd try the stock bootloader first.
 

taxco

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Check in hekate to see what battery info says.

You could try a battery desync fix. That disconnects the bq24193
Oke, hekate - CTCaer mod v4.2 on sd crad.
with the method you described
First i showed in 36.6% in red -421 at battery info and now it has changed to green.

Let see if it will charge, hope soo

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

What games comes with firmware 6 so i can update, ( iam banned and cant update online )
 

mattytrog

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Oke, hekate - CTCaer mod v4.2 on sd crad.
with the method you described
First i showed in 36.6% in red -421 at battery info and now it has changed to green.

Let see if it will charge, hope soo

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

What games comes with firmware 6 so i can update, ( iam banned and cant update online )
You can do it with choidujour and download from the website that we cannot mention.

Be careful of Jellybaby and creaturdle. Never know what those two little scrotes are up to.
 

taxco

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You can do it with choidujour and download from the website that we cannot mention.

Be careful of Jellybaby and creaturdle. Never know what those two little scrotes are up to.
i found that, i needs external fimrware to be extracted from a game containing 6.0.
 

taxco

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You can do it with choidujour and download from the website that we cannot mention.

Be careful of Jellybaby and creaturdle. Never know what those two little scrotes are up to.
I cant figure it out,
New firmware 6.1 did not help nor desync.

Still chares when in os but in off no charge.
Even the switch wont auto boot when i plugin the carger.
 

mattytrog

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I cant figure it out,
New firmware 6.1 did not help nor desync.

Still chares when in os but in off no charge.
Even the switch wont auto boot when i plugin the carger.
Take a pic of your install. No in fact. Take a pic of your whole board. As clear as you can.

Something I want to have a look at
 
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taxco

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Take a pic of your install. No in fact. Take a pic of your whole board. As clear as you can.

Something I want to have a look at
here
 

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living

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I used AWG24 cables for the GND and for the VCC and it does the same, I can not get into the SWITCHBOOT or REBUGBOOT mode .....

I only enter the TRINKETBOOT
 

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OK... I think the problem is in the glue.

It looks like hot melt.

I think you have made a high impedance connection with all the hot melt on the M92T36.

Never ever put hot melt on components. Certain epoxys you can, but not hot melt.

Always put glue on the PCB mask only. Can you take the glue off and try it? Maybe take a pic without the glue on there?
 
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OK... I think the problem is in the glue.

It looks like hot melt.

I think you have made a high impedance connection with all the hot melt on the M92T36.

Never ever put hot melt on components. Certain epoxys you can, but not hot melt.

Always put glue on the PCB mask only. Can you take the glue off and try it? Maybe take a pic without the glue on there?

Its hotglue, it does not conduct electricity, is this same as hot melt?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Its hotglue, it does not conduct electricity, is this same as hot melt?
M92T36 is the one in the right corner right? i dont have any glue on that one.
 
D

Deleted-172301

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I opened uo my switch to clean things up... Right joy con no longer connects. I need to get a better tool set in order to open it up again. After exploring things a bit I didn't notice anything unusual. Could I have shorted something out? Back plate was on. Only rearranged a couple screws in order to make sure that the SD slot area wasnt bulging up. Thats not a problem anymore...
 

nestaa51

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I opened uo my switch to clean things up... Right joy con no longer connects. I need to get a better tool set in order to open it up again. After exploring things a bit I didn't notice anything unusual. Could I have shorted something out? Back plate was on. Only rearranged a couple screws in order to make sure that the SD slot area wasnt bulging up. Thats not a problem anymore...

If your ground is bad, right joycon wont connect.
 
D

Deleted-172301

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If your ground is bad, right joycon wont connect.
Hmm. I looked at the trinket, one point looks like it's barely soldered on.

Edit:
I think it is one of the ground pins, not sure. Also might need a new trinket.. the reset button is bad. This will be an adventure lol.

@mattytrog I should have just sent my switch to the UK lol.
 
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living

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to see I drag the CURRENT.UF2 to the TRINKETBOOT ..- and when overwriting the file that was, the unit is closed, indicating that it has been recorded, but it does not give me the option to open the second unit to write the chainloader.

if GND were bad, the TRINKETBOOT would not open either?

once the TRINKETBOOT is closed, when entering the CURRENT, is the SWITCHBOOT or REBUGBOOT automatically opened? if I wait it does not appear, but if I give RESET wait 1sg RESET, it does not appear ... I can not visualize that unit ...
 

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