- Thread starter electronrancher
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Yeah you can ignore that, I'll go throw away the tomGER one. On release day, tomGER's setup didn't work with stock hekate 4, he had his own build inside the sd files that was needed. A minor release was made 1 day later so tomGERs suite would work with stock hekate4. Bottom line is the tomGER build is obsolete now.
Just wanted to wish you all a happy Friday from the basement lab! V2 is alive and well!
https://www.tindie.com/products/14767/
https://www.tindie.com/products/14767/
Last edited by electronrancher,
I see you've moved on to Type C, looks great! The 670-3064-1 is a good choice, I have a bunch of them beside me that ended up being too thick due to the little tabs that stick out but they have great rigidity thanks to those case tabs being solderable.
Speaking of, how are you soldering those? I would assume by hand since you have to break your panels apart, but if there's an easier way I would love to know.
Speaking of, how are you soldering those? I would assume by hand since you have to break your panels apart, but if there's an easier way I would love to know.
Really awesome work!!
I bought the first Gen Chip, just waiting for the convertor.
I already programmed it and all is good and ready to go.
Thanks A lot!!
Jax
I bought the first Gen Chip, just waiting for the convertor.
I already programmed it and all is good and ready to go.
Thanks A lot!!
Jax
Thanks! I am still on the fence about how to best do the connectors. I have the footprint on the solder stencil, so I did one batch by pasting and sticking the connectors on before placing. Then I did another batch soldering by hand. I'd say they were about equally challenging, each needs a bit of finesse.
Thanks! I am still on the fence about how to best do the connectors. I have the footprint on the solder stencil, so I did one batch by pasting and sticking the connectors on before placing. Then I did another batch soldering by hand. I'd say they were about equally challenging, each needs a bit of finesse.
They're tricky little buggers, even the good ones. How do you get both sides of the connector in the oven? I assume there must be an easy way since you can find pre-soldered ones on Aliexpress for almost nothing.
Out of a good 10 I hand soldered, I accidentally bridged multiple pins on 2 of them, which proved to be near impossible to fix. Another one just wouldn't seem to weld D+ and I ended up de-laminating the pad after several tries and a good deal of liquid flux. Kicked my sense of pride right back down after feeling good about drag soldering the ATSAMD21 pretty easily.
I have no idea if it's going to work, but my new plan is to switch to a 0.8mm board thickness (up from 0.6mm) as that seems to be what the connector was designed for, and hope the liquid flux and surface tension does the rest of the work for me. I decided to make a new footprint with some bigger pads to help with this. Doesn't look pretty, but if it works I won't have to touch the pins themselves and if it saves time so be it. Hopefully it cuts out some tedium! Let me know how ugly it is.
Last edited by MatinatorX,
They're tricky little buggers, even the good ones. How do you get both sides of the connector in the oven? I assume there must be an easy way since you can find pre-soldered ones on Aliexpress for almost nothing.
Out of a good 10 I hand soldered, I accidentally bridged multiple pins on 2 of them, which proved to be near impossible to fix. Another one just wouldn't seem to weld D+ and I ended up de-laminating the pad after several tries and a good deal of liquid flux. Kicked my sense of pride right back down after feeling good about drag soldering the ATSAMD21 pretty easily.
I have no idea if it's going to work, but my new plan is to switch to a 0.8mm board thickness (up from 0.6mm) as that seems to be what the connector was designed for, and hope the liquid flux and surface tension does the rest of the work for me. I decided to make a new footprint with some bigger pads to help with this. Doesn't look pretty, but if it works I won't have to touch the pins themselves and if it saves time so be it. Hopefully it cuts out some tedium! Let me know how ugly it is.
View attachment 141911
Ideally, the oven should be great - paste both sides, pop on, and bake. Problem is that my stencil doesn't release well at this teeny pitch and I have to touch it up manually. Maybe I'll get a thinner stencil someday, but for now I'll make it work.
0.8mm is what mine is sized for, although it said 0.8mm copper to copper so I've wondered if that meant 0.6mm board or what. It seems to work OK with a 0.8mm board, though so I've no complaints there.
Is D+ the outermost corner pin on the atmel? That damn pin gave me a lot of headaches at first, just didn't want to connect on the fist few boards. I ended up pressing the parts down a bit harder to make sure it wets with solder properly, now it seems to work pretty well.
I love your modified footprint for the C type, that is a freaking brilliant idea. Little bit bigger, with a nice reservoir dot and missing the useless no connects - I think it looks great!
I've never actually seen the inside of a PCB oven. I kind of assumed it was flat and that the connectors would end up resting on the bottom, pushing the board up. A quick trip to Google just let me know how wrong I was.
That is indeed D+, first pin from the top on the right side of the chip. I haven't actually had any problems soldering the chip itself (besides not being able to hold my breath for very long), just the danged Type C connector.
Thanks for the kind words about the mutant footprint! Hopefully the theories behind it pan out.
Let me know if you want me to modify the case I made you for V2!
I've never actually seen the inside of a PCB oven. I kind of assumed it was flat and that the connectors would end up resting on the bottom, pushing the board up. A quick trip to Google just let me know how wrong I was.
That is indeed D+, first pin from the top on the right side of the chip. I haven't actually had any problems soldering the chip itself (besides not being able to hold my breath for very long), just the danged Type C connector.
Thanks for the kind words about the mutant footprint! Hopefully the theories behind it pan out.
Let me know if you want me to modify the case I made you for V2!
Sorry, been very busy lately - but YES, definitely! If you're willing to modify your case design I'd love to have it on Thingiverse!
Hey, maybe I'm being really dumb, but I can't get the newest hekate bin (hekate_ctcaer_4.10.1) to work with the UF2_Splicer. I swear I've done this manually before and had it work, so I'm wondering if anybody else has done it? Want to make sure it's just user error. When I drop the new CURRENT.UF2 (that I converted) on the dongle the light stays red / behaves differently from normal. So I just loaded the 4.8 that the user above posted back on for now, which still works fine.
Any suggestions or confirmation either way would be great, thank you.
Any suggestions or confirmation either way would be great, thank you.
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AncientBoi:
+1 Come to think of it, I might make 
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