Tutorial  Updated

Trinket Internal Install.

Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

usb intact.jpg


Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.
Trinket Points.jpg


When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.
trinket install points.jpg


Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.
Finished.jpg



Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Altternative Pad 4 Point.jpg


Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Alt Joycon Rail Pin 10 Point.jpg


Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

another install.jpg


the pad on the power button to use.

power button point.jpg


i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

twinket power off.jpg


ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.


charger_issue_volts.jpg


another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx
 

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Last edited by M-O-B, , Reason: added updated uf2 file.

M-O-B

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you could have the above code only blink when it's booted cfw.



basically the install would be these points on the switch mobo.

the trinket will power off every time you power off the switch.

20180730_104214.jpg
 
Last edited by M-O-B,
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efxonly123

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Thanks for the offer or a board, Yes of course I would love to test one out. I am purposely not chipping my switch just now with the trinket as I believe your board design to be a far superior mod, the trinket mod is ok - but having the option to power off easily is the better design for my purposes. Also I don't have any experience of using cad programs to make boards or smd parts, so it will be easier for me without needing to learn to use software for making gerbers as well. I usually just use through hole parts and breadboards/stipboard etc.

TBH the trinket bootloader is fine as it is, and is suited for our purposes, I just want to change some code so pin13 is not defined and a couple of other things as well such as the names that show up when connected to USB. Nothing major so keep using the trinket bootloader just now. I was messing about with wiring the chip up last night, but when I connected pin 17 & 18 to v+ and gnd, the chip gets hot - I soldered another board and the same thing happened, checked with my multimeter and didn't have any shorts on any of the pins - so I'll need to wait for the caps to turn up (Wednesday), before I can mess about any further.

EDIT:


OK after doing a few experiments (3 chips), I found the following:

Pins 5,18,35,42 are all ground pins and are connected internally to each other - so only 1 ground wire from the chip is required.
Pins 17,36,44 are all 3.3v pins and are all connected together internaly
Pin 6 is also 3.3v but is not connected internally to the other 3.3v pins.

1: After soldering check all pins - do a continuity on all adjacent pins to make sure they are not shorted (you'll not have any continuity before any power is applied to the chip).

2: If you power up the chip without a bootloader and only connected via gnd + power, after a few seconds the chip will get hot and bridge all GND to 3.3v pins (sometimes pin6 will short to gnd, but pin 17,36,44 will all be bridged to ground).

I don't know if powering up before programming breaks the chip - but it seems to need the bootloader pogrammed or it will just get very hot due to shorting out :-), At first I thought this was a soldering issue - but after 3 chips and checking for shorts prior to power, it's not. So be warned if doing your own chips!

Hello mrdude, are you referring to the m92t36 chip here, and if so, what type of symptoms would a switch experience if item #2 you mention occurred? Thanks
 

frep

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@mrdude
In case you want to program some sketches on your testboard, you can try my board package file in the Arduino IDE:
The reason, why I made a own board package was, that I had troubles using the arduino zero (native usb port) configuration. I think, the build or the upload settings didn't mach with the cristalless design of the testboard. The trinket configuration also didn't made me happy. There, it was possible to successfully upload sketches (build and upload settings seems fine), but the pin-configurations were very limited. Worst of all, my chosen pins weren't defined as digital IO's.

My configuration now combines the pin-configuration of the zero board together with the build and upload settings of the trinket.
 
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mrdude

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Thanks frep, I'm actually waiting for capacitors to turn up, also I am currently using my raspberry pi 2 for some other stuff so I need to set up my older raspberry pi 1, so just got a new micro sd card for that today, so I'll use that for putting a bootloader on.

I'll add your board to my arduino ide, thanks.
 

olku

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So i tried to install my trinket,
completely forgot to remove the resistor from the trinket(next to led)
could this have bricked my console? it booted ONCE with the BOOT.DAT? pic and then i powered it off, plugged in my SD and it never booted again.
I can hear a buzzing sound when i press the power button. Does not connect via PC, completely removed the trinket but same thing.
did i fry the M92T36 chip?
edit:
So after looking at a few other installs, seems its not compulsory to remove the resistor.
After thinking about it, anyone know how to diagnose the M92T36 chip? I think i may have bridged a lead when turning the switch over to power it off, or i may have even left the battery plugged in while soldering. I have a rework station, but I dont want to spend another $20 on the IC if I am just going to have to buy another switch.
Did you get yours fixed?
I'm having exact same problem. I did the install, when I tested it without SD card I got boot.dat? screen, turned it off put it back together and it wont turn on after that. I also hear a buzzing.
 

frep

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My custom boards arrived today, yeah! :-)

Size comparsion with a trinket:

IMG_8663.jpg IMG_8664.jpg

Soldering the 48-TQFP was a pain... but after that, all the other components were no problem at all.

For flashing the bootloader on the board, I used the j-link edu mini programmer (I will test other programmers another day). Even without the additional supply caps, flashing worked the first time without any problems:

IMG_8665.jpg

With the bootloader on the chip, it was time to plug it into the PC. The trinket was recognized and was ready to use in the Arduino IDE:

IMG_8666.jpg ArduinoIDE.jpg

Flashing of the sketch worked also without any problems. All in all a quite successfull day! :-D
 

mrdude

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@frep - yeah! good stuff dude, now just to test it out in the switch and see how it performs. Good stuff that you never needed to add those caps :-)
 

Muta

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Did you get yours fixed?
I'm having exact same problem. I did the install, when I tested it without SD card I got boot.dat? screen, turned it off put it back together and it wont turn on after that. I also hear a buzzing.
No. I am going to replace the M92T Usb controller IC in a few days, i think i fried that chip. Ill post here if it works after the replacement.
did you happen to forget to unplug the battery before soldering?
 
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efxonly123

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No. I am going to replace the M92T Usb controller IC in a few days, i think i fried that chip. Ill post here if it works after the replacement.
did you happen to forget to unplug the battery before soldering?
Hey Muta, I have another switch that I will be replacing the M92T36 usb chip in as well, so please take some pics of your work if you can. Thanks
 

olku

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No. I am going to replace the M92T Usb controller IC in a few days, i think i fried that chip. Ill post here if it works after the replacement.
did you happen to forget to unplug the battery before soldering?
No, my battery was disconnected. I can't think what went wrong. First I thought that I grounded 3v pad when putting heat shield back on, but there should be no power when Switch is off. Is it possible that Trinket fried the M92T36?
 

M-O-B

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Did you get yours fixed?
I'm having exact same problem. I did the install, when I tested it without SD card I got boot.dat? screen, turned it off put it back together and it wont turn on after that. I also hear a buzzing.

No, my battery was disconnected. I can't think what went wrong. First I thought that I grounded 3v pad when putting heat shield back on, but there should be no power when Switch is off. Is it possible that Trinket fried the M92T36?

if you both are hearing a buzz sound when trying to power on, then remove the sd card module from the switch and try and power on.

them sd card module plugs are so delicate it's easy to damage without knowing.

I damaged my sd module and had a buzz sound with the module plug in, it killed my 128gb sd card also, but mine actually went to nintendo boot logo before the buzz sound then trip off.

removed the module and the switch booted fine.

also plug usb into into it to make sure you have enough power, check the diode also. replace if need be.

charger_issue_volts.jpg
 

olku

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@M-O-B Thank you for suggestions.
I already tried without sd card reader.
I measured battery voltage, it reads 3.9v.
I'l check that diode, but I don't think that is the problem.
Maybe the cap where trinket 3.3v line goes got lifted, gonna check later when I get home.

edit:
I checked the V diode and both sides read 5v.
 
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M-O-B

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@M-O-B Thank you for suggestions.
I already tried without sd card reader.
I measured battery voltage, it reads 3.9v.
I'l check that diode, but I don't think that is the problem.
Maybe the cap where trinket 3.3v line goes got lifted, gonna check later when I get home.

edit:
I checked the V diode and both sides read 5v.

1 side should read 5v and the other side 3.2 or there abouts.

you shouldn't get 5v both sides unless you have bridged the diode.

the cap certainly stops a lot of things but I don't think it stops it from powering on.
 

olku

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1 side should read 5v and the other side 3.2 or there abouts.

you shouldn't get 5v both sides unless you have bridged the diode.

the cap certainly stops a lot of things but I don't think it stops it from powering on.

I checked the board, nothing seems to be bridged.

edit: I discovered that there is continuity with ground on both ends of this cap, would this bridge the diode? Visually nothing seems bridged.
cap.jpg
 
Last edited by olku,

M-O-B

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I checked the board, nothing seems to be bridged.

edit: I discovered that there is continuity with ground on both ends of this cap, would this bridge the diode? Visually nothing seems bridged.
cap.jpg

top side if that cap is 3.2v and bottom side is ground.

so is it reading bridged or a dead short.
 

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