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Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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"here is an updated diagram for the joy-con status LED mod which uses pin 5 (serial data console -> joy-con)"

How it looks installed ? Do you have some Pictures ?

Thank You
 
vulp_vibes said:
no components need to be removed aside from the LED in the joy-con, the components with highlighted yellow points on both ends just indicate that the wire can be attached to either side
Click to expand...
First of all, I really like your idea. It adds more coolness to the Picofly mod.

Not removing the resistors would explain why the insertion detection isn't properly working.
I assume that the Switch uses this serial signal from the Joycon to detect if it gets inserted.
You're now tying up the output from the RP2040 directly with the output from the Joycon UART.

Afaik the RP2040 IO lines don't have an open drain mode so it will actively pull the signal up or down.
The joycon serial signal is said to 'float' at 1.8v when idle so I assume it does have an open drain mode.
If the RP2040 had an open drain mode, the signal would also float when it is not using the LED and the joycon would be able to get its serial signal across to the Tegra.

I'm no full time electrical engineer but I think with an additional mosfet or bipolar transistor, you can change the RP2040 line into an open drain mode line.
Also, this would allow you to have it operate at 1.8 volt (Joycon output) instead of 3.3v (RP2040 output).
You would need an additional mosfet connected to the LED so that it can also operate on 1.8v.
Not sure what would happen when the Joycon UART puts a signal on the line though.
In the worst case it might light up with some funky colors for a moment making it even cooler.

The Tegra which accepts the UART signal, can also operate at 3.3v so I assume that is why it has no issues with the 3.3v (instead of the 1.8v)
So technically no harm done with your current solution.

It's too bad there are no free pins on the joycon rail.
Not sure why it needed 3 GND lines.
Maybe Nintendo just linked all unused pins to GND.
You could hijack one of those GND lines.
Do add a resistor to the RP2040 IO line to the LED on the Switch side.
This will prevent any issues with unmodified joycons getting inserted into your modified Switch and pulling the RP2040 IO line to ground.
 
vulp_vibes said:
here is an updated diagram for the joy-con status LED mod which uses pin 5 (serial data console -> joy-con). I originally ruled out this pin as I assumed it would interfere with the joy-con's function, but in testing the only issue I have found is that the attach/detach animations do not play. if you wish to test it, please let me know how it performs for you and if you notice any issues.

joy-con: (any of the highlighted pads are okay to use for their corresponding color)

View attachment 573710

DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:

View attachment 573715

points to connect the DIN line from the RP2040-Zero (V1/V2, OLED):

View attachment 573711View attachment 573712


View attachment 573714
Click to expand...
hey there. cool!
I will give it a try when I have time.
cheers!
 
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another kamikaze repair following my previous one; this one had more extensive damage, with the drilled area being deeper and more broad. the EMMC had been completely cooked by a DAT0 adapter "reflow" as well... I transplanted it to a hackable switch to dump and restore it to an undamaged chip. I don't have a spare housing for this board, so it is just the motherboard and battery in the dock lol, but it is working again. it's been good practice working on these salvage boards, but I must strongly recommend any would-be mr. drillers consider whether they are capable of a repair like this, or can find someone who is, before deciding on any destructive methods
 
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Jkop said:
Yes these are the chips I used. Kamikazed dat0. The left I used with samsung emmc and right with SK hynix. I would have to check the ohms but I think the 2.79 firmware from rehius fixed it. Will keep you updated
Post automatically merged:


I just updatd to 2.79 from rehius and it works. If I get errors I will try to record it it will be a long video because only 1 of 15 boots goes into OFW
Post automatically merged:


Yes I did get the **= on 2.78. But I think the 2.79 has fixed it I am sitting here testing it and turning it off and on and no problems will keep you updated

Thank You!!!!!!
Click to expand...
você ainda tem o link para que eu possa comprar este chip?
Post automatically merged:

Jkop said:
Yes these are the chips I used. Kamikazed dat0. The left I used with samsung emmc and right with SK hynix. I would have to check the ohms but I think the 2.79 firmware from rehius fixed it. Will keep you updated
Post automatically merged:


I just updatd to 2.79 from rehius and it works. If I get errors I will try to record it it will be a long video because only 1 of 15 boots goes into OFW
Post automatically merged:


Yes I did get the **= on 2.78. But I think the 2.79 has fixed it I am sitting here testing it and turning it off and on and no problems will keep you updated

Thank You!!!!!!
Click to expand...
você ainda tem o link para que eu possa comprar este chip?
 
Today ive experienced a strange issue during modding process on Nintendo switch OLED:

- Installed Picofly ( flashed RP 2040 with firmware from github)
- Checked all connections Before ( none of them on ground or shorted)
- RP2040 dont turn on
- few tries after without power on sucess, i disconnected battery and reconnected again
- RP2040 TURNS ON AUTOMATICALLY, without power button pressed.
- Shows ** error ( RST error)
- shows Nintendo logo, and black screen.

Removed the wires, RP2040. Dont powers on in the first atemp. Only after press power button for few seconds ( like forcing shutdown) and press power button again. Nintendo logo and black screen only.

Anybody was experienced this?
 
Hi, after connecting a Picofly to a Nintendo Switch OLED, I'm getting this error. When the Picofly is connected and I try to turn on the console, nothing happens. The screen is black, no lights on the Picofly board are lit or flashing, the microcontroller is cold, and the Tegra is also cold, meaning nothing is turning on. When I disconnect the ribbon cables from the Picofly board, the console turns on normally. Where did I go wrong? What should I check first?
 

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