Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[estm13]

Hello, I am having problems creating emummc in erista with firm 22.1..0, does anyone know how to solve it?

check vol- and vol+ button reseat it properly

 

[kleinerprinz]

"here is an updated diagram for the joy-con status LED mod which uses pin 5 (serial data console -> joy-con)"

How it looks installed ? Do you have some Pictures ?

Thank You

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

"here is an updated diagram for the joy-con status LED mod which uses pin 5 (serial data console -> joy-con)"

How it looks installed ? Do you have some Pictures ?

Thank You

you need to remove those 2 resistors and add 2 wires + the LED.
There won't be much to see.

 

[vulp_vibes]

you need to remove those 2 resistors and add 2 wires + the LED.
There won't be much to see.

no components need to be removed aside from the LED in the joy-con, the components with highlighted yellow points on both ends just indicate that the wire can be attached to either side

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

no components need to be removed aside from the LED in the joy-con, the components with highlighted yellow points on both ends just indicate that the wire can be attached to either side

First of all, I really like your idea. It adds more coolness to the Picofly mod.

Not removing the resistors would explain why the insertion detection isn't properly working.
I assume that the Switch uses this serial signal from the Joycon to detect if it gets inserted.
You're now tying up the output from the RP2040 directly with the output from the Joycon UART.

Afaik the RP2040 IO lines don't have an open drain mode so it will actively pull the signal up or down.
The joycon serial signal is said to 'float' at 1.8v when idle so I assume it does have an open drain mode.
If the RP2040 had an open drain mode, the signal would also float when it is not using the LED and the joycon would be able to get its serial signal across to the Tegra.

I'm no full time electrical engineer but I think with an additional mosfet or bipolar transistor, you can change the RP2040 line into an open drain mode line.
Also, this would allow you to have it operate at 1.8 volt (Joycon output) instead of 3.3v (RP2040 output).
You would need an additional mosfet connected to the LED so that it can also operate on 1.8v.
Not sure what would happen when the Joycon UART puts a signal on the line though.
In the worst case it might light up with some funky colors for a moment making it even cooler.

The Tegra which accepts the UART signal, can also operate at 3.3v so I assume that is why it has no issues with the 3.3v (instead of the 1.8v)
So technically no harm done with your current solution.

It's too bad there are no free pins on the joycon rail.
Not sure why it needed 3 GND lines.
Maybe Nintendo just linked all unused pins to GND.
You could hijack one of those GND lines.
Do add a resistor to the RP2040 IO line to the LED on the Switch side.
This will prevent any issues with unmodified joycons getting inserted into your modified Switch and pulling the RP2040 IO line to ground.

 

[superfiege]

here is an updated diagram for the joy-con status LED mod which uses pin 5 (serial data console -> joy-con). I originally ruled out this pin as I assumed it would interfere with the joy-con's function, but in testing the only issue I have found is that the attach/detach animations do not play. if you wish to test it, please let me know how it performs for you and if you notice any issues.

joy-con: (any of the highlighted pads are okay to use for their corresponding color)

View attachment 573710

DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:

View attachment 573715

points to connect the DIN line from the RP2040-Zero (V1/V2, OLED):

View attachment 573711View attachment 573712


View attachment 573714

hey there. cool!
I will give it a try when I have time.
cheers!

 

[vulp_vibes]

another kamikaze repair following my previous one; this one had more extensive damage, with the drilled area being deeper and more broad. the EMMC had been completely cooked by a DAT0 adapter "reflow" as well... I transplanted it to a hackable switch to dump and restore it to an undamaged chip. I don't have a spare housing for this board, so it is just the motherboard and battery in the dock lol, but it is working again. it's been good practice working on these salvage boards, but I must strongly recommend any would-be mr. drillers consider whether they are capable of a repair like this, or can find someone who is, before deciding on any destructive methods

 

[moroemmanaus]

Yes these are the chips I used. Kamikazed dat0. The left I used with samsung emmc and right with SK hynix. I would have to check the ohms but I think the 2.79 firmware from rehius fixed it. Will keep you updated

Post automatically merged: Sep 3, 2024

I just updatd to 2.79 from rehius and it works. If I get errors I will try to record it it will be a long video because only 1 of 15 boots goes into OFW

Post automatically merged: Sep 3, 2024

Yes I did get the **= on 2.78. But I think the 2.79 has fixed it I am sitting here testing it and turning it off and on and no problems will keep you updated

Thank You!!!!!!

você ainda tem o link para que eu possa comprar este chip?

Post automatically merged: Jun 2, 2026

Yes these are the chips I used. Kamikazed dat0. The left I used with samsung emmc and right with SK hynix. I would have to check the ohms but I think the 2.79 firmware from rehius fixed it. Will keep you updated

Post automatically merged: Sep 3, 2024

I just updatd to 2.79 from rehius and it works. If I get errors I will try to record it it will be a long video because only 1 of 15 boots goes into OFW

Post automatically merged: Sep 3, 2024

Yes I did get the **= on 2.78. But I think the 2.79 has fixed it I am sitting here testing it and turning it off and on and no problems will keep you updated

Thank You!!!!!!

você ainda tem o link para que eu possa comprar este chip?

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Do you have the link so that you can buy this chip?

Aliexpress sells them but more credible sellers like Mouser will probably also have them.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Nintendo-Switch-emmc.html

 

[Mr Skinner]

Today ive experienced a strange issue during modding process on Nintendo switch OLED:

- Installed Picofly ( flashed RP 2040 with firmware from github)
- Checked all connections Before ( none of them on ground or shorted)
- RP2040 dont turn on
- few tries after without power on sucess, i disconnected battery and reconnected again
- RP2040 TURNS ON AUTOMATICALLY, without power button pressed.
- Shows ** error ( RST error)
- shows Nintendo logo, and black screen.

Removed the wires, RP2040. Dont powers on in the first atemp. Only after press power button for few seconds ( like forcing shutdown) and press power button again. Nintendo logo and black screen only.

Anybody was experienced this?

 

[MaNiKi]

Hi, after connecting a Picofly to a Nintendo Switch OLED, I'm getting this error. When the Picofly is connected and I try to turn on the console, nothing happens. The screen is black, no lights on the Picofly board are lit or flashing, the microcontroller is cold, and the Tegra is also cold, meaning nothing is turning on. When I disconnect the ribbon cables from the Picofly board, the console turns on normally. Where did I go wrong? What should I check first?

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Hi, after connecting a Picofly to a Nintendo Switch OLED, I'm getting this error. When the Picofly is connected and I try to turn on the console, nothing happens. The screen is black, no lights on the Picofly board are lit or flashing, the microcontroller is cold, and the Tegra is also cold, meaning nothing is turning on. When I disconnect the ribbon cables from the Picofly board, the console turns on normally. Where did I go wrong? What should I check first?

The only things I can think of is a bad board or you might be creating a short over the flex cable.
If the board gets power, then it will light up.
Power comes in through the flex cable that is connected to the RST/DAT0 etc (not the one connected to the APU).
Any pictures?

Edit : Might the mosfet of the picofly be broken?
Some boards have the mosfet on the board itself and not on the flex cable.

 

[MaNiKi]

The only things I can think of is a bad board or you might be creating a short over the flex cable.
If the board gets power, then it will light up.
Power comes in through the flex cable that is connected to the RST/DAT0 etc (not the one connected to the APU).
Any pictures?

Edit : Might the mosfet of the picofly be broken?
Some boards have the mosfet on the board itself and not on the flex cable.

I loaded the software onto the microcontroller and it started to power up (I thought the firmware was already installed by default), and the end of the ribbon cable soldered to the processor was touching the metal shield. When I adjusted the ribbon cable, it powered up and the screen read "NO SD CARD." Satisfied that it worked, I started assembling, but now I get the *== error. I've checked the ribbon cable and the CLK point several times, but the multimeter doesn't show a ground connection, and the error keeps flashing. I even desoldered the ribbon cable and soldered the cable from that point to the microcontrollers, but the error persists. The console still powers on and functions normally. I think I'll skip the upgrade on this unit.

 

[master801]

Found some weird Picofly chips while browsing around on AliExpress. These have been available for a few weeks - only bothering to post about them now for historical purposes in case the listings get pulled.

---

These two look like a redesign of the old "JKY-RP2040" chip? At least comparing them to the one from a YouTube video from years ago.

Variant "C":


Variant "D":

Looks the same as the "C" variant, but with different stamping (dropping the "RP2040" name), better plated pads and slightly different traces (?)

---

New Picofly design?

This one looks the most interesting, since they took the effort to round the corners of the PCB and even silk screen the FPCs, which you rarely ever see anyone doing with these cheaply manufactured chips. Bad part is that I think they may have skimped on the gold plating for the pads since they do not look very shiny.

 

[Urbanshadow]

I was able to install a couple of picofly, one in my mariko and another one in a lite I bought for training. The solder points for the emmc in the lite was a challenge for me but I got it installed successfully. Because pics or it didn't happen:

Mariko (LCD):

Lite:

I bridged lite SP2 with the cap to its immediate left (hence the solder ball there), but I was able to separate it back correctly.
Both systems boot reliably into hekate, mariko unit being a bit slower on that but I guess is to be expected. Thank goodness I have my microscope.

 

[ViRGE]

Just to get a reading from the crowd, would I be totally off of my rocker to get a launch-day V1 Switch chipped? Being able to jig it all of these years has been nice, but it would be handy to have the console be able to boot itself. And with the Switch platform reaching the end of its life, it doesn't seem like there's much need to leave the hardware untouched going forward.

 

[Nephiel]

Just to get a reading from the crowd, would I be totally off of my rocker to get a launch-day V1 Switch chipped? Being able to jig it all of these years has been nice, but it would be handy to have the console be able to boot itself. And with the Switch platform reaching the end of its life, it doesn't seem like there's much need to leave the hardware untouched going forward.

You can use one of those chips for Erista switches, that amount to an internal payload pusher.
A Picofly should also work, but I'd feel bad using that on a vulnerable V1, sort of... like tasering an elderly guard? One that, you know, would let you in if you just asked nicely?

I would also replace the battery and thermal paste while the console is open, a launch V1 is bound to need it after all these years.

 

[impeeza]

Just to get a reading from the crowd, would I be totally off of my rocker to get a launch-day V1 Switch chipped? Being able to jig it all of these years has been nice, but it would be handy to have the console be able to boot itself. And with the Switch platform reaching the end of its life, it doesn't seem like there's much need to leave the hardware untouched going forward.

you can use a picofly or a Trinket, RCM-X86, Gemma M0, ItyBitsy M0, Feather M0 Express auto injector

Or a ESP-s3 as an autoinjector

Or even better https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE

 

[ViRGE]

you can use a picofly or a Trinket, RCM-X86, Gemma M0, ItyBitsy M0, Feather M0 Express auto injector

Or a ESP-s3 as an autoinjector

Or even better https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE

Very interesting. Thank you, I wasn't aware this was even an option. So I'm glad I asked for advice. It certainly sounds like a more elegant solution than voltage glitching.

Are there services that do these installations? I don't have the skills (or the hands) to solder a Switch, so I had been looking at getting it done by a pro (which by and large seem to focus on picoflys).

You can use one of those chips for Erista switches, that amount to an internal payload pusher.
A Picofly should also work, but I'd feel bad using that on a vulnerable V1, sort of... like tasering an elderly guard? One that, you know, would let you in if you just asked nicely?

I would also replace the battery and thermal paste while the console is open, a launch V1 is bound to need it after all these years.

It is a bit of overkill. But some kind of chip would be nice, since it's not possible to get it self-booting otherwise. I do like that analogy though; I can't even argue it's not accurate.

As for other work, the plan is to basically refurbish the thing for retirement. Get it chipped, get the battery swapped out, etc.

 

[vulp_vibes]

Very interesting. Thank you, I wasn't aware this was even an option. So I'm glad I asked for advice. It certainly sounds like a more elegant solution than voltage glitching.

Are there services that do these installations? I don't have the skills (or the hands) to solder a Switch, so I had been looking at getting it done by a pro (which by and large seem to focus on picoflys).

It is a bit of overkill. But some kind of chip would be nice, since it's not possible to get it self-booting otherwise. I do like that analogy though; I can't even argue it's not accurate.

As for other work, the plan is to basically refurbish the thing for retirement. Get it chipped, get the battery swapped out, etc.

I have done internal trinket installs for the v1, haven't done any in ages due to the picofly but I quite like them as you can get them down to just the atsamd21 itself and a couple of capacitors. a fun and clean install imo

(old image from.. 2019, wow)