Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

psycho-neon

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Thx didn't know.
I remembered incorrectly I did this mod on a switch lite to train soldering and that one had 250ohm when I measured. (On that board it actually worked.)

Measured on this OLED board and actually seems that the resistor is broken on this board, don't get any reading at all. Other ones meassure 47 ohm but dat0 resistor is dead.(desoldered it just to be sure)

So need to order some resistors don't have any SMD in correct size at home.

Is it the rp2040-tiny "dev board" which is the supported one in the thread?

Is it this guide you refer to ?
https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/
Or it could be burnt cmd resistor. Try to boot into ofw and see if it does, otherwise what @QuiTim is the problem
 

QuiTim

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Thx didn't know.
I remembered incorrectly I did this mod on a switch lite to train soldering and that one had 250ohm when I measured. (On that board it actually worked.)

Measured on this OLED board and actually seems that the resistor is broken on this board, don't get any reading at all. Other ones meassure 47 ohm but dat0 resistor is dead.(desoldered it just to be sure)

So need to order some resistors don't have any SMD in correct size at home.

Is it the rp2040-tiny "dev board" which is the supported one in the thread?

Is it this guide you refer to ?
https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/
Well it makes more sense if the resistor is burnt, usually we get "slow emmc" when resistance is low, that's why we started using 100ohm instead of 47ohm which was used originally and if yours is damaged you might be getting 0ohms.
Both rp2040 and rp2040-tiny work great (tiny fits better and no need to remove anything from the board).
Check that one first, but it could be something else as psycho-neon suggested.
 
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etnicor

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Or it could be burnt cmd resistor. Try to boot into ofw and see if it does, otherwise what @QuiTim is the problem
Get 47 ohm readings on the other resistors. Only dat0(C point) resitor which is no reading. Does not look burnt so my guess it was like this from factory.

Ordering a few 0402 100 ohms resistor.

Can I just disconnect rp2040 chip to boot to ofw or do I need to desolder anything?
 

psycho-neon

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Get 47 ohm readings on the other resistors. Only dat0(C point) resitor which is broken. Does not look burnt so my guess it was like this from factory.

Ordering a few 0402 100 ohms resistor.

Can I just disconnect rp2040 chip to boot to ofw or do I need to desolder anything?
You can press VOL+ and - at the same time at the NO SDCARD screen.
 
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Dukenukemx

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I'm gonna try to install the RP2040-Tiny instead of the Aliexpress one. Does the RP2040 Tiny not need resistors installed? No 47 Ohm resistors?
rp2040 tiny.png
 

twins333

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I'm gonna try to install the RP2040-Tiny instead of the Aliexpress one. Does the RP2040 Tiny not need resistors installed? No 47 Ohm resistors?
View attachment 423503
well, as you can see in the picture you posted, the dat0 clk and cmd points do have 47ohm resistors. It's a good idea to either replace them with 100ohm ones for dat0 and cmd, OR add additional 47 ohm ones on these two points.
 
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Bheamut

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Hi guys! I've already opened a post about it but then i find this post so i ask here:
I managed to install the chip on the console, immediately afterward I backed up the raw eMMC, boot0, boot1 and the keys. I could successfully boot into both ofw and cfw. The next day, however, I noticed that sometimes it wouldn't boot into Hekate but directly into ofw, and the error was D0. So, I disassembled and correctly positioned the D0 (I have the adapter with two pads that hold it in place) and made sure it was secure. I always checked all the values with the multimeter, and they were in the correct range of 500-800. Hekate now starts correctly, but sometimes the cloned chip gives an error * = * or **= and boots into ofw then i've the logo and then black screen. I have to hold it down for 20 seconds, and then Hekate starts normally again. The problem is that I can no longer enter OFW or syscfw; every time it shows the startup screen and immediately goes black. So, I always have to hold it down for 20 seconds and go back to Hekate. I doubted that I damaged the eMMC, but removing the flat cables from the chip and starting ofw starts normally. Could the problem be the chip or something else? If it's the chip, do you know where I can buy a new one? Could I solve it by positioning the D0 adapter better? I don't mind too much being able to access OFW because the idea is to use it for Moonlight on Android, but I still want to resolve it. Thanks in advance to everyone for the help.
 

lightninjay

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Hi guys! I've already opened a post about it but then i find this post so i ask here:
I managed to install the chip on the console, immediately afterward I backed up the raw eMMC, boot0, boot1 and the keys. I could successfully boot into both ofw and cfw. The next day, however, I noticed that sometimes it wouldn't boot into Hekate but directly into ofw, and the error was D0. So, I disassembled and correctly positioned the D0 (I have the adapter with two pads that hold it in place) and made sure it was secure. I always checked all the values with the multimeter, and they were in the correct range of 500-800. Hekate now starts correctly, but sometimes the cloned chip gives an error * = * or **= and boots into ofw then i've the logo and then black screen. I have to hold it down for 20 seconds, and then Hekate starts normally again. The problem is that I can no longer enter OFW or syscfw; every time it shows the startup screen and immediately goes black. So, I always have to hold it down for 20 seconds and go back to Hekate. I doubted that I damaged the eMMC, but removing the flat cables from the chip and starting ofw starts normally. Could the problem be the chip or something else? If it's the chip, do you know where I can buy a new one? Could I solve it by positioning the D0 adapter better? I don't mind too much being able to access OFW because the idea is to use it for Moonlight on Android, but I still want to resolve it. Thanks in advance to everyone for the help.
I blame your HWFLY clone.
 

deeps

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Hi guys! I've already opened a post about it but then i find this post so i ask here:
I managed to install the chip on the console, immediately afterward I backed up the raw eMMC, boot0, boot1 and the keys. I could successfully boot into both ofw and cfw. The next day, however, I noticed that sometimes it wouldn't boot into Hekate but directly into ofw, and the error was D0. So, I disassembled and correctly positioned the D0 (I have the adapter with two pads that hold it in place) and made sure it was secure. I always checked all the values with the multimeter, and they were in the correct range of 500-800. Hekate now starts correctly, but sometimes the cloned chip gives an error * = * or **= and boots into ofw then i've the logo and then black screen. I have to hold it down for 20 seconds, and then Hekate starts normally again. The problem is that I can no longer enter OFW or syscfw; every time it shows the startup screen and immediately goes black. So, I always have to hold it down for 20 seconds and go back to Hekate. I doubted that I damaged the eMMC, but removing the flat cables from the chip and starting ofw starts normally. Could the problem be the chip or something else? If it's the chip, do you know where I can buy a new one? Could I solve it by positioning the D0 adapter better? I don't mind too much being able to access OFW because the idea is to use it for Moonlight on Android, but I still want to resolve it. Thanks in advance to everyone for the help.

garbage chip, get an rp2040-zero or tiny instead
 

etnicor

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You can press VOL+ and - at the same time at the NO SDCARD screen.
Replaced dat0 resistor to 133 ohm.
Tested to boot into OFW but get purple screen, I guess I should replace 47 ohm CMD resistor aswell then.

Hard to replace resistors on this chip they are so tiny and sit so close to each other :)
 

psycho-neon

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Replaced dat0 resistor to 133 ohm.
Tested to boot into OFW but get purple screen, I guess I should replace 47 ohm CMD resistor aswell then.

Hard to replace resistors on this chip they are so tiny and sit so close to each other :)
As I expected. The value is 4.7k ohm just for your info, not 47ohm resistor. Do not be confused about the resistor at the chip.

What you have to replace is the resistor on the switch board itself. Point A resistor.

Screenshot_20240303_094921_Gallery.jpg
 

etnicor

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As I expected. The value is 4.7k ohm just for your info, not 47ohm resistor. Do not be confused about the resistor at the chip.

What you have to replace is the resistor on the switch board itself. Point A resistor.

View attachment 423571
Ah ok, it's a 0201 size?
It gets tinier and tinier :)

May I ask the reason why it needs to be replaced?
What is the supposed stock value? I meassured it inline and get 1.1M Ohm
 

psycho-neon

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Ah ok, it's a 0201 size?
It gets tinier and tinier :)

May I ask the reason why it needs to be replaced?
What is the supposed stock value? I meassured it inline and get 1.1M Ohm
Because it is busted or you burnt it when you are connecting the point A and thus giving you purple screen error. That's the real reason for the purple screen and not the chip. If you have a hot air gun, you can try and reflow it, most of the time the solder connecting the resistor gets disconnected when you solder the wire.

If you will not fix it, then your switch wont work unfortunately even without the mod chip.

You can use 0402 or 0603 and wire it manually if you have difficulty with 0201.
 

etnicor

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Because it is busted or you burnt it when you are connecting the point A and thus giving you purple screen error. That's the real reason for the purple screen and not the chip. If you have a hot air gun, you can try and reflow it, most of the time the solder connecting the resistor gets disconnected when you solder the wire.

If you will not fix it, then your switch wont work unfortunately even without the mod chip.

You can use 0402 or 0603 and wire it manually if you have difficulty with 0201.
Thx,
tried reflowing the resistor with hot air but still 1.1M ohm.

WIll have to find some 0201 4.7k ohm resistors somewhere.

I guess 0201 is not so bad but this one sits in an awkward spot.


EDIT: removed resistor from board and meassured I guess it's burnt. No reading from it.
 
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LuigiGad

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Ah ok, it's a 0201 size?
It gets tinier and tinier :)

May I ask the reason why it needs to be replaced?
What is the supposed stock value? I meassured it inline and get 1.1M Ohm
The cause is not known, but I assure you that (it has happened to me 2 times in my career) it is not due to damage to the resistor, at least in my case. In an emergency I even used a laboratory resistor, just remove the old resistor.
 

etnicor

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The cause is not known, but I assure you that (it has happened to me 2 times in my career) it is not due to damage to the resistor, at least in my case. In an emergency I even used a laboratory resistor, just remove the old resistor.
MM I actually soldered one side of the resistor to a lab board to be able to measure it better, if I measured it on the underside I got a 4.8k reading sometimes but not when putting probes on the sides or top. So my guess is that I perhaps burnt the metal.

Ordered a smd sample book with 0201 resistors from amazon, will get it on Wednesday. Just hoping it has 4,7k resistors, didn't say which values it contained.

EDIT:
Had an old laptop motherboard which I found a 0201 4.7k resistor on wIll trie to solder it tomorrow.

However I purposely tried to burn multiple 0201 resistors on laptop MB, i was unsuccessful in all attempts, so wonder how I managed on the switch MB(doesn't seem that I am alone though). Crappy resistors on switch MB?

Also as a sidenote if you buy modchip kit from alie check your resistors, I had bought a v1/v2 aswell which is unused so I checked resistors and this one had a broken 47 ohm resistor. Would suggest go with rp2040-tiny as recommended...
 
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deeps

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I've updated the initial post regarding the comments you mentioned.

I've placed an order with JLCPCB with your files, will update when I've gotten a chance to install one! The only change I made to the settings was board thickness 1mm (same as rp2040-tiny), default is 1.6mm which seemed unnecessary. Just a note, the pads are still present as components in the gerber file and the jlcpcb ordering system complains about it not existing in the bom file. not a big issue though, you can just ignore it and hit continue
 
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psycho-neon

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I've placed an order with JLCPCB with your files, will update when I've gotten a chance to install one! The only change I made to the settings was board thickness 1mm (same as rp2040-tiny), default is 1.6mm which seemed unnecessary. Just a note, the pads are still present as components in the gerber file and the jlcpcb ordering system complains about it not existing in the bom file. not a big issue though, you can just ignore it and hit continue
Great! I've ordered them as well. 100pcs (panelized 5x4) since I have plenty of rp2040 chip with me. 😁 Expecting them to come after 2days.

Thickness of the board I have set was 0.6mm (same as the prototype)

This was the initial version of the board, with my V2 switch. All works good and clean installs. both oled and v2 works perfectly.
20240303_202713_resized.jpg
 

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