Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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Acide0

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hi, I have install M0 on my switch today, I follow the second method but I'm having some issues, when the reset line is solder on trinket, when I turn off the system it resart by itself ?
Some one have a idea where it come from ?
 

vcazan

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Provided that you properly soldered pads +/- you SHOULD be able to program the Trinket via your console's USB port while it is on the home screen (Horizon) by pressing the button on the Trinket twice.

YOu should see something called TRINKETBOOT pop on your PC if you did it correctly.

Thank I will try that out! Has there been an update to the trinket firmware as the version I installed and that was giving me problems with game loading was called "newmethod123_ReiNX.zip"
 

vcazan

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@mikeleuskaldunak
Here is a picture of my install, I am not afraid of anyone judging me I posted it on Reddit lol

Just to be clear, the trinket is working from what I can tell, as it will boot the switch on power up, show the rei splash and then boot the switch.

I am able to run homebrew just fine like app store and tinfoil. I can install NSPs no problem. But my trouble is that whenever I load a game, it gives me an error and does not boot the game. If I use my android phone to send the payload bin, then everything works and games load like normal.
 

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vcazan

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Sorry about that I am not sure how to make a thumbnail of the image with this forum software.

When I took the picture there was no shielding but I did put VHB tape under and over the trinket so I am fairly confident it is not shorting. It boots the switch reliably every time I power it up.

Yeah its just hot glue stick. I ripped one of the pads from the trinket usb and had to solder directly to the pin of the chip. It was a huge pain but got it after some time. Then I decided to put the glue to ensure that does not happen when I tug on the wire.

Three HUGE things.

First, upload your picture as a thumbnail.
Second, it looks like you don't have any shield between the Trinket and that metal part of the switch where it sits. That will give you MAJOR problems.
Last, what kind of glue are you using? Is it just regular hot glue?

The biggest issue i see (aside from your bloody picture lol) is that the Trinket is most likely shorting or about to short because you don't have anything under it.
 

vcazan

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So...I had the two usb pads soldered correctly, then when I stripped the other end of the wire to solder it to the switch I ripped off one of the USB pads. After a few minutes of swearing I decided to try and solder directly to the chip pin and after a few tries I got it and inspected it with a microscope to make sure it didn't bridge any of the pins. That is why it is coming in from the side.

And i am not 100% on this, but i don't think you should be able to send any payload via USB if the Trinket is installed properly. I would assume that anything would hit the Trinket first and die there if your console is either off or on RCM.

Again i could very well be wrong. Matty knows best.

I cannot see your +/- pad soldering on the Trinket due to the glue you have on there. I can't help but wonder why that yellow wire on the Trinket is laying orthogonal to the green one when they should both be in the same direction..
Did you have trouble removing the port? Are you 100% sure there aren't any bridged pads under that glue?
 

Acide0

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So I made THE mistake that nobody will love it :-(

I had a litlle pridge between the 3v capacitor and the other one just over it, was removing the solder slowly but unfortunatly the 3v cap fall out....
even with it the switch seem to work, do I really need to solder it again ?
 

mattytrog

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hi, I have install M0 on my switch today, I follow the second method but I'm having some issues, when the reset line is solder on trinket, when I turn off the system it resart by itself ?
Some one have a idea where it come from ?

OK. What are you using? Hekate? Rei?

@mikeleuskaldunak
Here is a picture of my install, I am not afraid of anyone judging me I posted it on Reddit lol

Just to be clear, the trinket is working from what I can tell, as it will boot the switch on power up, show the rei splash and then boot the switch.

I am able to run homebrew just fine like app store and tinfoil. I can install NSPs no problem. But my trouble is that whenever I load a game, it gives me an error and does not boot the game. If I use my android phone to send the payload bin, then everything works and games load like normal.

Payload problem. I need to update the payload. Will do it ASAP. The payload is sending, I need to update ReiNX.

Those wires are bloody thick! As long as it is working OK for you.
It is bad practice to glue over the top of solder. If your adhesive goes conductive over time, you will have problems with this installation. Glue the insulation to something else insulated! ie PVC insulation of wires to the PCB mask. SDee how you go with it.

So I made THE mistake that nobody will love it :-(

I had a litlle pridge between the 3v capacitor and the other one just over it, was removing the solder slowly but unfortunatly the 3v cap fall out....
even with it the switch seem to work, do I really need to solder it again ?

As long as the trinket is still connected, the capacitor on the trinket will be doing the same job as the missing one. It "should" be OK in theory, as long as the trinket is connected. Give it a terst. If stable, then you are all good. If unstable, replace.

Size 0402, 4.7uF, 10V SMD ceramic cap should do it.

You need to be so careful when heating components.
 

M-O-B

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here's the latest ReiNX h file for your ReiNX files in case you not got it yet.

Anyone that's grab the ReiNX ino files then just extract and replace the old one with this one..
 

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64Dp128k

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OP Updated with new download. More coming for Gemma and Legacy method 3. Working with limited resources as away from home at the moment. Bear with me!
cheers mate, what changes have been made for method1 sxos, any news on no pin multiversion. thanks again.
 
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D

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I use Rei on my system. Basically if I use the Trinket to boot the system starts fine and boots, I get the custom splash page and I can run app store and tinfoil. But when I try and run games I've installed though tinfoin I get the error message when they load.

Now if I turn off my system and boot with the Rei payload bin file from my phone the console boots up and the games run just fine. It seems like the Trinket paylaod is not patching something correctly. The wiring looks fine to me as if there was an issue with that I'd expect the console not to boot but stay in RCM mode.

Any help is appreciated. Unfortunately I've already soldered the USB port off my trinket so it will be hard to reprogram. May have to order another Trinket.


Done a few Trinket Rei installs and all run fine - Use Darth Meteos' Super Special SD Stash v3.0.1

Delete fs_mitm.kip from ReiNX/sysmodules

Get the newest tinfoil.nro and replace

Almost forgot - Easy to reprogram with PC and usb C cable - connect cable then double tap trinket button - Takes a few tries usually

Does ReiNX suport botting to OFW in AutoRCM?
 
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EvanVanVan

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Hi, I'm just getting started and am a little confused after the reading/browsing the forums for a while. I just bought an SX Pro Dongle, but haven't plugged it in yet. My Switch is updated to the official 5.1.0 firmware.

I bought SX Pro after reading of it's benefits, but now I'm seeing these internal modchip methods. I feel comfortable enough soldering that I think I'd prefer to have a permanent internal solution rather than always needing the Dongle.

1. Since I'm already 5.1.0, is method 1 my best option just because it's the least amount of soldering?
2. What do Trinket M0 and Gemma M0 refer to and what are the differences?
3. The OP doesn't get into booting/loading payloads after the "modchip"/wires are installed? That's information found elsewhere?
4. Any reason I should just use the SX Dongle over this method?

Thank you
 

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