It's because LP0 isnt properly setup.What is the culprit for the sleep bug? Is that something that could be fixed any day now? Having sleep mode working again would be awesome.
It's because LP0 isnt properly setup.What is the culprit for the sleep bug? Is that something that could be fixed any day now? Having sleep mode working again would be awesome.
This is an issue with grounding pin 10. Sounds like you have a modded Joy-Con.The right joycon doesn't work attached while using briccmii and hekate ctcaer mod 1.5 to run homebrew.
Switch games working, to use both joycon together need to detached, right joycon just charge attached using switch battery.
Thats normal using permanent rcm or there's something wrong?
As expected, an implementation of AutoRCM has been merged into the latest version of Hekate. It would be best of users stuck to a specific implementation of this setup in order to avoid the possibility of not being able to revert your changes!
The tinfoil wasn't removed completely when I used to run briccmii!This is an issue with grounding pin 10. Sounds like you have a modded Joy-Con.
If you can't get it to shutdown/turn on for some reason, open and remove the battery for a few seconds, then charge if required.While using AutoRCM I ran Painless Linux's boot-windows.bat file without an SD card in my Switch and now my Switch just has a black screen, doesn't register on TegraRCMSmashGUI as being in RCM and doesn't do anything when I hold the power button for a prolonged period of time, am I fucked?
If you can't get it to shutdown/turn on for some reason, open and remove the battery for a few seconds, then charge if required.
The charge level doesn't really matter, that comment was an "if required" one. The Switch can get stuck in a state where it thinks it is (for a better lack of the term) dead. That is why you need to remove the battery. If you have a small enough flat blade or the right size torx bit you can use them instead of a tri-wing.Thanks for the tip, but I don't have a tri-wing screwdriver to open the Switch and the battery was at 100% already :S
Agreed. The iFixit screwdriver set is ~$20 and has pretty much everything you need for most devices. iPhones, small Phillips-head, triwing screws, etc.It's worth having the proper equipment needed to open any device you own in your toolkit. Especially these days with proper hardware power switches being a thing of the past.
You can use the same payload to uninstall AutoRCM and return your Switch back to normal, yes.so, if i send the payload, it "bricks", but if i send the payload again, does it "fix"?
Thanks
ok great, thank you for the information.You can use the same payload to uninstall AutoRCM and return your Switch back to normal, yes.
I have the exact same problem here charge level is basically 100% and won't even power on or show any signs of life, drivers can't be detected and i have no way of opening it up.Thanks for the tip, but I don't have a tri-wing screwdriver to open the Switch and the battery was at 100% already :S
I have the exact same problem here charge level is basically 100% and won't even power on or show any signs of life, drivers can't be detected and i have no way of opening it up.
In principle, this should work.I wonder if letting the battery drain to 0% will do the same trick as removing it
In principle, this should work.
Well i just left it to charge for a bit and turns out the voltage % reading is unstable as it finally turned on at 15% so i uninstalled AutoRCM and unplugged it for a few minutes then dropped to 13% and instantly shut off.I wonder if letting the battery drain to 0% will do the same trick as removing it
AutoRCM can’t get any improvement.Well i just left it to charge for a bit and turns out the voltage % reading is unstable as it finally turned on at 15% so i uninstalled AutoRCM and unplugged it for a few minutes then dropped to 13% and instantly shut off.
I left it to charge completely which took over 3 hours and it was working fine last night until this morning it wouldn't turn on again so i again have left it to charge so i might have to let it drain on its own and see what happens but for now i think ill stay away from AutoRCM until things become more stable.
If you mean you're going to wait for AutoRCM to become more stable, that's not going to happen. It works a very specific way that isn't going to change.Well i just left it to charge for a bit and turns out the voltage % reading is unstable as it finally turned on at 15% so i uninstalled AutoRCM and unplugged it for a few minutes then dropped to 13% and instantly shut off.
I left it to charge completely which took over 3 hours and it was working fine last night until this morning it wouldn't turn on again so i again have left it to charge so i might have to let it drain on its own and see what happens but for now i think ill stay away from AutoRCM until things become more stable.