Hacking Battery Problem After

[Shadow LAG]

You started the Switch Backup?
What is it? Or die you mean recovery Mode?


Okay this is...
I do what he write but i dont remove the battery or disassempled the Switch.

I hold the Power Button on the Switch 60seconds and do this 3 x and now it work
Edit:
Ok dont work..
15% and it is Off

That's because you need to clear the memory and drain the capacitors you can not skip removing the battery.

 

[guily6669]

This is incorrect. It absolutely is required to hold the button. I didnt tell him to do it out of guess work. Holding the power button with the battery disconnected drains the capacitors and clears the memory.

I guess thats the same reason I say remove the battery connection and just wait a bit of time... In the PC is the same, you just have to wait until the power light of the motherboard turns off, powering it on or not is the same result, just cuts off like less 10 seconds of waiting though I think in just seconds the capacitors of the switch will be fully drained as they are nothing compared to PC...

My PC motherboard has a similar option to a UPS and other functions 4 example and the capacitors of my Corsair AX750 80 plus gold is probably enough to do a bit of damage to a human .

 

[Shadow LAG]

I guess thats the same reason I say remove the battery connection and just wait a bit of time... In the PC is the same, you just have to wait until the power light of the motherboard turns off, powering it on or not is the same result, just cuts off like less 10 seconds of waiting though I think in just seconds the capacitors of the switch will be fully drained as they are nothing compared to PC...

My PC motherboard has a similar option to a UPS and other functions 4 example and the capacitors of my Corsair AX750 80 plus gold is probably enough to do a bit of damage to a human .

With all do respect, and no offense intended, I am a level 2 sys admin and network engineer and know exactly what I'm talking about, hence the solution that fixed this problem. I perform this method at work for a range devices. This is known as a coldboot and is intended to starve the memory of voltage, thus clearing any errors and re calibrating on first boot.

When you say "wait until the light of the motherboard turns off", that is a lazy and incomplete method which do not completely drain the capacitors. When you don't hold the power button you are still leaving charge in the components. You cannot discharge a capacitor without forcing it to drain by attempting a power on without a power source; otherwise, you are letting capacitors do their job and store charge which is what they are intended for. Depending on the capacitor it can store it's charge for up to 24 hours in the best case or years for larger capacitors:

More information here: https://electronics.stackexchange.c...-automatically-release-their-energy-over-time

 

[guily6669]

As a computer technician I never heard you fully needed to press power button to completely remove their energy as a requirement, even though I won't deny you I always press power button on my PC, but even most known technicians just say to wait a few time... Most will exactly tell to remove AC cable, remove the battery inside of the motherboard (in case of pc hardware not switch) and just wait a few minutes, remove static electricity of your body before touching anything and its just ready to be messed it...

Also since the board always have the function to wait for power always on and the very small power requirement led on most, if its OFF most likely the capacitors are already fully discharged.

ps: I never heard pressing power is a requirement, however yes, its always something that you can do to speed up discharging the capacitors (but remember some board components are just simply powered by the capacitors so they always waste a very small energy and will eventually discharge them, thats why there isnt a single equipment on the world with 100% efficiency and 0% power consumption while its OFF, any charger that is connected to power is consuming a small amount of energy because some components inside are always being powered, and they alone will eventually discharge the capacitors).

 

[Shadow LAG]

Also since the board always have the function to wait for power always on and the very small power requirement led on most, if its OFF most likely the capacitors are already fully discharged.

Generally yes, but this isn't considered "best practice". Just because the LED is no longer receiving power on say a PSU, I guarantee if you put a screw driver in it, you are going to blow your fucking finger nails off

ps: I never heard pressing power is a requirement

This is quite a well known method: https://community.spiceworks.com/posts/5138849

 

[guily6669]

Well the thing is if you have a huge capacitor and nothing connected to it, it will have power built in for quite some time, when you have a full circuit attached to it full of chips that consume energy even when OFF, they will eventually eat the power stored on the capacitor...

But like I said on my PC I also have the habit of doing like you, pressing power button, however when technically studying it when capacitors are attached to a lot of components on every single one of them a few energy will be eaten too until it dies completely but pressing power button just speeds it up.

And off course in case of PC we usually remove the battery inside to Clear CMOS or if you want just that some boards also have jumpers for it.

Even when you take a course they wont exactly tell you that pressing power is a "requirement", BUT I ALSO LIKE PRESSING IT LIKE YOU

 

[subcon959]

Forget PCs, I remember having to do this on the SNES in 1991. If you didn't unplug it and cycle the power switch before opening it up to do repairs, it would inevitably blow the pico fuse.

 

[guily6669]

Forget PCs, I remember having to do this on the SNES in 1991. If you didn't unplug it and cycle the power switch before opening it up to do repairs, it would inevitably blow the pico fuse.

What if you waited like 5 min, would it still be charged?

But don't judge me wrong as like I said I also have the habit of pressing power button all the time on my PC...

 

[subcon959]

What if you waited like 5 min, would it still be charged?

That's not good practice. Why risk it when you can instantly drain by power cycling.

 

[Shadow LAG]

That's not good practice. Why risk it when you can instantly drain by power cycling.

Subcon959 is correct. In the tech world there are guidelines you must follow called "Best Practices", and this is one of them. Telling others it is okay to stray from them is irresponsible.

What if you waited like 5 min, would it still be charged?

But don't judge me wrong as like I said I also have the habit of pressing power button all the time on my PC...

Some capacitors can be charged for up to years. In the switch's case you are looking more like 24 hours.

 

[guily6669]

I don't think its wrong, technically seeing it I just think the difference is time, pressing power cuts of waiting more time... But even the best professional repairers here usually on all devices just tell to unplug it from AC and wait around 5 min...

Though like I said I my self also prefer pressing power button, but I don't ever think its a requirement but more a time shaving feature as the capacitors alone will take a huge amount of time to fully lose charge, but after there is a full board full of things they will just eat its energy kinda quick.

PS: But yeah, just remove battery, press power button for a few seconds, you can wait a few minuts if you want to be safe and its good... However you can also say its safer to wait 10 hours instead of 5 min (but wont make any difference).

EDIT: Oh and judging by a video I saw a few time ago, just removing the battery on the switch for a few seconds seems like it completely reset it already... From the guy that removed nand then put it back in and the console won't turn ON, he just removed battery for a few seconds and reconnect it and it turns ON right away, which lead me thinking its very small capacitors will only work for just a few seconds until it completely reset it. But I still agree with you for a total safe result its better to disconnect it for a few minutes and press power button a few times just to at least be 110% sure it does the trick.

 

[alkar]

Same problem here and i only tried to boot the arch kernel, nothing more. Didn't have the issue before for sure.

Shutdown after around 30% remaining, can't say if it's just wrong % showing or it's really an issue. I can turn it on then for 5min more and it switches off.

Didn't try anything to resolve it though, will try suggestions posted.

 

[natinusala]

Since the first time I've booted Linux, I've made sure to always reboot into Horizon (and then shut down from Horizon) after powering the Switch down from Linux. I also noticed that when you power off the Switch from Linux, the fan doesn't stop.

As I don't see any battery issues (yet), I wonder if it's good practice to do this ?

 

[Bartesco]

I fully charged my Switch and left it on with max brightness running Super Mario Odissey to drain the battery and see what happens. When it went to 40% I turned it off and tried to turn on but... don't work, unless I connect it to the charger. Now it turns off after minutes of play, like yesterday. Isn't there any fix without opening the machine? Thanks for your help, I'm verry worried.
(Sorry because my bad English)

 

[alkar]

Exact same problem. Now I wonder if it's just a calibration issue and if the battery actually lasted 100% but shows 40% ? Hard to tell since I don't have much idea of how long I can play a game :/ Use it mostly docked.

 

[dsrules]

Exact same problem. Now I wonder if it's just a calibration issue and if the battery actually lasted 100% but shows 40% ? Hard to tell since I don't have much idea of how long I can play a game :/ Use it mostly docked.

google "nintendo switch battery life chart", first result, it has a great list of games and how long the battery will last when played under different settings

 

[alkar]

yeah well according to this chart, I really do miss the last 30%....

 

[TerraPhantm]

Subcon959 is correct. In the tech world there are guidelines you must follow called "Best Practices", and this is one of them. Telling others it is okay to stray from them is irresponsible.



Some capacitors can be charged for up to years. In the switch's case you are looking more like 24 hours.

The important ones likely drain much faster than that

 

[Shadow LAG]

My working hypothesis is, the calibration stored by the switch's software is desynced by the battery consumption under Linux. When the Switch re-enters Horizon OS with a drastic change, it cannot calibrate correctly. Now this is odd since you can drain a battery with the switch entirely off; thus, you would expect the same result under normal operation. That being said, this does not appear to be the case. I believe the switch may keep a low powered counter of the battery when even in complete shutdown state, which would explain the desync after Linux.

Since my proposed fix of draining the capacitors resolves the issue, I believe this may be a hardware component storing the data in memory.

For now, please do the cold boot trick I recommended that has been confirmed to fix the issue, and I will diagnose this further when I get home to see if I can find a soft way to reset this counter.

 

[alkar]

My working hypothesis is, the calibration stored by the switch's software is desynced by the battery consumption under Linux. When the Switch re-enters Horizon OS with a drastic change, it cannot calibrate correctly. Now this is odd since you can drain a battery with the switch entirely off; thus, you would expect the same result under normal operation. That being said, this does not appear to be the case. I believe the switch may keep a low powered counter of the battery when even in complete shutdown state, which would explain the desync after Linux.

Since my proposed fix of draining the capacitors resolves the issue, I believe this may be a hardware component storing the data in memory.

For now, please do the cold boot trick I recommended that has been confirmed to fix the issue, and I will diagnose this further when I get home to see if I can find a soft way to reset this counter.

Hopefully there is a soft fix.. I tried to open it up but I lack the proper screwdriver for the joycon rails, hopefully I didn't even screw the screws...
I wonder if I could deplete 100% of the battery being on linux though, then try horizon OS...?