Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Hello !!!

I need a help about this error "*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)"

I see my flex and its good but i have always this error ;(
 

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Hello !!!

I need a help about this error "*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)"

I see my flex and its good but i have always this error ;(
Had this one time with a faulty RP2040-zero Aliexpress clone (now I'm only buying from waveshare).

If your soldering is good, test it with another board before doing other modifications.
 
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Is there a way to test rp240 before installing it to the console?? I mean if I supply it with 3,3V what should I read on outputs?? Or it won't work without the input from Apu/board??
 
Hello, I used the search engine but I couldn't find anything about other mosfets having been used successfully. Thank you
There is a lot in this thread, if you search it.
Heres my note (but theres more that i did'nt written down, because i don't have spare time to do it).
Its not mine, i am just written down notes from peoples in here, that i confidence that its true:




AON7400A
Not Work/ Not Strong Enough to Glitch
It give false positive so cannot work reliably, one unit returned from customer with systomp can only boot to stock.

AON6414A
Not Work/ Not Strong Enough to Glitch

AON S36312
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

AON 6512
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

AON 6792
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

FDMC 7672
Works, Reliable, Perfect 3x3 package, Single Mosfet Install

TPN8R903NL
Works on V2 confirmed. From XBox.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10186167
 
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Hi, I have a problem to ask you.
I received an OLED (picofly model, reball nand).
The customer complains that the console does not start.
I opened the console, trying to start it, the chip flashes without ever stopping.
I checked all the soldering points and they are ok.
Then I also checked the DAT0 again but everything was all OK.
I asked the customer which charger he charged the console with, and he uses a TYPE C notebook power supply.
So I tested the capacitors inside the various chips and found a short in one capacitor (I attach photos).
On other consoles (not OLED) I have had to replace the chip in question (very similar, but some numbers change).
In those cases, however, by charging the battery externally, the console started.
Here, however, I have no power on.
When in doubt, I desoldered RP2040, and it still doesn't start.
I checked the charging absorption, and the console absorbs (although I notice a current consumption even when turned off, probably due to the shorted capacitor).
What do you recommend I do? Thanks in advance.
 

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Hi, I have a problem to ask you.
I received an OLED (picofly model, reball nand).
The customer complains that the console does not start.
I opened the console, trying to start it, the chip flashes without ever stopping.
I checked all the soldering points and they are ok.
Then I also checked the DAT0 again but everything was all OK.
I asked the customer which charger he charged the console with, and he uses a TYPE C notebook power supply.
So I tested the capacitors inside the various chips and found a short in one capacitor (I attach photos).
On other consoles (not OLED) I have had to replace the chip in question (very similar, but some numbers change).
In those cases, however, by charging the battery externally, the console started.
Here, however, I have no power on.
When in doubt, I desoldered RP2040, and it still doesn't start.
I checked the charging absorption, and the console absorbs (although I notice a current consumption even when turned off, probably due to the shorted capacitor).
What do you recommend I do? Thanks in advance.

Replace the chip, and discuss somewhere else because this is not picofly related
 
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Replace the chip, and discuss somewhere else because this is not picofly related
I also suspected this factor, I wanted certainty and other opinions.
This is the power supply that was used.
I tell the customer to only use the original and I can tell him that the modd. Isn't that the cause of this?
Thank you

Alimentatore in questione
Post automatically merged:

Hi, I have a problem to ask you.
I received an OLED (picofly model, reball nand).
The customer complains that the console does not start.
I opened the console, trying to start it, the chip flashes without ever stopping.
I checked all the soldering points and they are ok.
Then I also checked the DAT0 again but everything was all OK.
I asked the customer which charger he charged the console with, and he uses a TYPE C notebook power supply.
So I tested the capacitors inside the various chips and found a short in one capacitor (I attach photos).
On other consoles (not OLED) I have had to replace the chip in question (very similar, but some numbers change).
In those cases, however, by charging the battery externally, the console started.
Here, however, I have no power on.
When in doubt, I desoldered RP2040, and it still doesn't start.
I checked the charging absorption, and the console absorbs (although I notice a current consumption even when turned off, probably due to the shorted capacitor).
What do you recommend I do? Thanks in advance.
Just to confirm and get more information.
1) The customer says that he only used this power supply after the console was already dead.
2) That chip only shorts out with incorrect voltages (such as a broken USB connector, overvoltages, etc.), isn't it possible that the RP2040 chip interferes with the power supply?
 
Last edited by cicci084,
Hello, I am using the IRF8714 mosfet, but it does not work for me, I have heard that it is necessary to add a resistor, can someone help me? thank you

in a reddit thread it says: Add a > 1K pulldown resistor from gate to ground. but I don't understand what I should do
 
Hello, I am using the IRF8714 mosfet, but it does not work for me, I have heard that it is necessary to add a resistor, can someone help me? thank you

in a reddit thread it says: Add a > 1K pulldown resistor from gate to ground. but I don't understand what I should do
Can't work with that mosfet, the VGS 10V is too high.
Picofly only send 2.7V~3.3V on the gate pin as a high bit (1).

In practical find mosfet with 4.5V VGS with as low as possible RDS(on) value (around 4-20mohm).




And N mosfet if i am not mistaken (CMIIW), other please confirm me if i am wrong. I just use my brain memory might wrong in something.
 
Can't work with that mosfet, the VGS 10V is too high.
Picofly only send 2.7V~3.3V on the gate pin as a high bit (1).

In practical find mosfet with 4.5V VGS with as low as possible RDS(on) value (around 4-20mohm).




And N mosfet if i am not mistaken (CMIIW), other please confirm me if i am wrong. I just use my brain memory might wrong in something.
Post automatically merged:

thanks for answering. You are telling me that the irf8714 is not suitable for picofly, however here in the forum there are people who have used it. I don't understand what's happening
 
Hi guys, I bought a Nintendo switch V1 but it had a catch, the last owner tried to instal a pico fly, he didn't got to far since he ripped off the reset(rst) trace off the board, he didn't try to continue the installation, and the board is clear.

Since I got it I repaired the trace but didn't work, and I used a thicker wire to redo the trace and voilà is working!
At least was I thought... After a minute or so I went off, in order to turn it back on I have to remove the battery for a while and it's back on but still after a minute or so it goes off.(literaly working, i can open games and charge it while is on)
Any sugestions?
Is ther any point that it lead to on other part of the board so i can "bypass"?
 

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Hi guys, I bought a Nintendo switch V1 but it had a catch, the last owner tried to instal a pico fly, he didn't got to far since he ripped off the reset(rst) trace off the board, he didn't try to continue the installation, and the board is clear.

Since I got it I repaired the trace but didn't work, and I used a thicker wire to redo the trace and voilà is working!
At least was I thought... After a minute or so I went off, in order to turn it back on I have to remove the battery for a while and it's back on but still after a minute or so it goes off.(literaly working, i can open games and charge it while is on)
Any sugestions?
Is ther any point that it lead to on other part of the board so i can "bypass"?
make sure these 3 red circled have solid continuity to each other.
And also 4.7k ohm resistor on the line still have reading
 

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Post automatically merged:

thanks for answering. You are telling me that the irf8714 is not suitable for picofly, however here in the forum there are people who have used it. I don't understand what's happening
Yes you're right, someone says that its work.

Logically speaking, it shouldn't work. If it does, it might not be stable.
View attachment 401704
Look that graphics on around 3V the resistance is >25mohms

Comparing with 8342 seems its similar
View attachment 401705

Editted:
I think my memory is not that great lol. Sorry seems it worked.
 
Yes you're right, someone says that its work.

Logically speaking, it shouldn't work. If it does, it might not be stable.
View attachment 401704
Look that graphics on around 3V the resistance is >25mohms

Comparing with 8342 seems its similar
View attachment 401705

Editted:
I think my memory is not that great lol. Sorry seems it worked.
ok, can you tell me how the resistor would be connected to according to this: Add a > 1K pulldown resistor from gate to ground.
 

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