Had this one time with a faulty RP2040-zero Aliexpress clone (now I'm only buying from waveshare).Hello !!!
I need a help about this error "*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)"
I see my flex and its good but i have always this error ;(
Had this one time with a faulty RP2040-zero Aliexpress clone (now I'm only buying from waveshare).
if it boots to OFW. Double-check CLK.Hello !!!
I need a help about this error "*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)"
I see my flex and its good but i have always this error ;(
You still around ?If anybody in Australia wants an install, PM me. Also have 6 modded Zelda OLED available. Delete if not allowed.
There is a lot in this thread, if you search it.Hello, I used the search engine but I couldn't find anything about other mosfets having been used successfully. Thank you
Hi, I have a problem to ask you.
I received an OLED (picofly model, reball nand).
The customer complains that the console does not start.
I opened the console, trying to start it, the chip flashes without ever stopping.
I checked all the soldering points and they are ok.
Then I also checked the DAT0 again but everything was all OK.
I asked the customer which charger he charged the console with, and he uses a TYPE C notebook power supply.
So I tested the capacitors inside the various chips and found a short in one capacitor (I attach photos).
On other consoles (not OLED) I have had to replace the chip in question (very similar, but some numbers change).
In those cases, however, by charging the battery externally, the console started.
Here, however, I have no power on.
When in doubt, I desoldered RP2040, and it still doesn't start.
I checked the charging absorption, and the console absorbs (although I notice a current consumption even when turned off, probably due to the shorted capacitor).
What do you recommend I do? Thanks in advance.
I also suspected this factor, I wanted certainty and other opinions.Replace the chip, and discuss somewhere else because this is not picofly related
Just to confirm and get more information.Hi, I have a problem to ask you.
I received an OLED (picofly model, reball nand).
The customer complains that the console does not start.
I opened the console, trying to start it, the chip flashes without ever stopping.
I checked all the soldering points and they are ok.
Then I also checked the DAT0 again but everything was all OK.
I asked the customer which charger he charged the console with, and he uses a TYPE C notebook power supply.
So I tested the capacitors inside the various chips and found a short in one capacitor (I attach photos).
On other consoles (not OLED) I have had to replace the chip in question (very similar, but some numbers change).
In those cases, however, by charging the battery externally, the console started.
Here, however, I have no power on.
When in doubt, I desoldered RP2040, and it still doesn't start.
I checked the charging absorption, and the console absorbs (although I notice a current consumption even when turned off, probably due to the shorted capacitor).
What do you recommend I do? Thanks in advance.
Can't work with that mosfet, the VGS 10V is too high.Hello, I am using the IRF8714 mosfet, but it does not work for me, I have heard that it is necessary to add a resistor, can someone help me? thank you
in a reddit thread it says: Add a > 1K pulldown resistor from gate to ground. but I don't understand what I should do
Can't work with that mosfet, the VGS 10V is too high.
Picofly only send 2.7V~3.3V on the gate pin as a high bit (1).
In practical find mosfet with 4.5V VGS with as low as possible RDS(on) value (around 4-20mohm).
And N mosfet if i am not mistaken (CMIIW), other please confirm me if i am wrong. I just use my brain memory might wrong in something.
make sure these 3 red circled have solid continuity to each other.Hi guys, I bought a Nintendo switch V1 but it had a catch, the last owner tried to instal a pico fly, he didn't got to far since he ripped off the reset(rst) trace off the board, he didn't try to continue the installation, and the board is clear.
Since I got it I repaired the trace but didn't work, and I used a thicker wire to redo the trace and voilà is working!
At least was I thought... After a minute or so I went off, in order to turn it back on I have to remove the battery for a while and it's back on but still after a minute or so it goes off.(literaly working, i can open games and charge it while is on)
Any sugestions?
Is ther any point that it lead to on other part of the board so i can "bypass"?
Yes you're right, someone says that its work.Post automatically merged:
thanks for answering. You are telling me that the irf8714 is not suitable for picofly, however here in the forum there are people who have used it. I don't understand what's happening
ok, can you tell me how the resistor would be connected to according to this: Add a > 1K pulldown resistor from gate to ground.Yes you're right, someone says that its work.
Logically speaking, it shouldn't work. If it does, it might not be stable.
View attachment 401704
Look that graphics on around 3V the resistance is >25mohms
Comparing with 8342 seems its similar
View attachment 401705
Editted:
I think my memory is not that great lol. Sorry seems it worked.
i will try it, dont i need the little solder point that is going on through the board?make sure these 3 red circled have solid continuity to each other.
And also 4.7k ohm resistor on the line still have reading
that little one goes to the emmc socket I circled, You could either fix it like the way you already did or make a big jumper to the top 2nd pin on the EMMC soket right raili will try it, dont i need the little solder point that is going on through the board?