Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[Crazywhitie]

So yes is was the Pad 3 to the Joycon channel... not sure why looked ok.. I moved the Pad 3 to the Small dot on Motherboard under cable...

I Notice With Method 2 power off error but i believe it is harmless

 

[M-O-B]

@M.O.B

I can see a couple of issues with your new install method:

1: You're connecting a 3.2 volt supply to the bat pin - this voltage then goes though a Diode, which drops the voltage by 0.6 volts - so you're now supplying only 2.6v to the voltage regulator. If you look at the trinket - the 3v pin is connected to the 3.3v output of the voltage regulator - you should connect to that instead of bat - that way, you'll get better stability from the trinket.

2: You don't need to connect the reset pin to anything if you're using the switch on the trinket - as it gets a ground from the ground from the trinket - which is already soldered to ground (I hope, as you never showed that on your drawing), that's why you're having problems putting the switch into bootloader mode sometimes.

yup didn't load rcm mode without the rst wire, but I went back to original code untouched, then removed the rst wire and it loaded rcm mode.

so thanks for pointing that out now I will update my diagram without the rst pad being used.

next about the bat pad now the rst wire has gone I have no probs with boot loader mode gets it first time every time.

but will add pad 3v can be used can't believe I forgot to add that and gnd pad also.

some times 2 heads are better than one.

So yes is was the Pad 3 to the Joycon channel... not sure why looked ok.. I moved the Pad 3 to the Small dot on Motherboard under cable...

I Notice With Method 2 power off error but i believe it is harmless

not seen that error on mine maybe your pad 3 wire.

 

[Crazywhitie]

not seen that error on mine maybe your pad 3 wire.

Hmm. But it seems to only happen when trinket is flashing. Like it sends rcm for a second everytime? I'm going to reflash trinket tomorrow. It's not a big deal really...

 

[M-O-B]

ok has been updated with the diagram and all points now, I've not forgotten any, well I hope not I'm getting to old for this stuff, should leave it to the younger generation lol.

 

[Soluble]

Think I'm like method 2 currently, the double tap power seems like a good addition.

 

[M-O-B]

Think I'm like method 2 currently, the double tap power seems like a good addition.

that got my nerves did that one, I prefer method 3 but it seems to not wanna work now, need to press reset to load payload, but my battery is only at 20% so will charge battery then try again.

just when it seemed to be fine.

 

[Deleted User]

@M-O-B Keep up the good work.

Are you able to order in a new SD Card reader from ebay or aliexpress? or did the socket below get damaged? It's really garbage how they have it connected, it basically wobbles until you stuff that foam sticker back on top of it =/

 

[mrdude]

@M.O.B

I don't think it's a good idea to bridge those two caps - you'll short out pins 5 & 6 on the Charging Power Control IC Chip, which will end up causing charging issues. TBH I think it would be better to use the power point you used before - but use a transistor to ground the trinket - via that 1.8v supply (connected to the transitor base), that's an easy point to solder to and you'll have much less risk of damaging anything on your motherboard.

I can't find a pinout drawing of what pins 5 & 6 on that IC do - so I can't say for sure what damage it would cause, but it's not worth risking it as it could be a pain to change if you cause any damage.

 

[M-O-B]

added extra diagram for method 3 for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode.

@M-O-B Keep up the good work.

Are you able to order in a new SD Card reader from ebay or aliexpress? or did the socket below get damaged? It's really garbage how they have it connected, it basically wobbles until you stuff that foam sticker back on top of it =/

it's the actual port on the mobo that is buggerd, I did buy a new module but that worked but just did find the partition or something like that.

once I get time I'll probably just direct wire the module, but I need to figure out the points first.

my own fault tbh just wasn't expecting it to be so cheaply made lol.

@M.O.B

I don't think it's a good idea to bridge those two caps - you'll short out pins 5 & 6 on the Charging Power Control IC Chip, which will end up causing charging issues. TBH I think it would be better to use the power point you used before - but use a transistor to ground the trinket - via that 1.8v supply (connected to the transitor base), that's an easy point to solder to and you'll have much less risk of damaging anything on your motherboard.

I can't find a pinout drawing of what pins 5 & 6 on that IC do - so I can't say for sure what damage it would cause, but it's not worth risking it as it could be a pain to change if you cause any damage.

I did it as a experiment that's all, and pin 5 & 6 are vcc-in & vsvr.

I'm ok with soldering to small pads and replacing ic.

 

[Deleted User]

it's the actual port on the mobo that is buggerd, I did buy a new module but that worked but just did find the partition or something like that.

once I get time I'll probably just direct wire the module, but I need to figure out the points first.

my own fault tbh just wasn't expecting it to be so cheaply made lol.

Yeah I was surprised too how cheaply done it is, it doesn't even stay put proper without the sticky foam bit. Plus you don't expect it to be like that at first and if you pull the foam with it quick it's buggered.


@mrdude that transistor idea might work out as a good way to keep the trinket isolated until the joy con rails get powered up. There's no real issue using the main supply for the duration of the exploit since its so short, so anything we can do afterwards to keep the trinket basically out of the equation entirely is a win.

I wonder if the switch would miss it's cartridge slot module because that would be a great spot to hide this might even be able to leave the usb intact and connect it through the cart port. Make a small reset switch there beside and keep it digital only xD

 

[M-O-B]

Yeah I was surprised too how cheaply done it is, it doesn't even stay put proper without the sticky foam bit. Plus you don't expect it to be like that at first and if you pull the foam with it quick it's buggered.


@mrdude that transistor idea might work out as a good way to keep the trinket isolated until the joy con rails get powered up. There's no real issue using the main supply for the duration of the exploit since its so short, so anything we can do afterwards to keep the trinket basically out of the equation entirely is a win.

I wonder if the switch would miss it's cartridge slot module because that would be a great spot to hide this might even be able to leave the usb intact and connect it through the cart port. Make a small reset switch there beside and keep it digital only xD

LMAO do away with cart slot I like my slot, yeah I think that's what I did remove that sd module to fast or at a funny angle.

and here's both method 3, middle one is 4 wires and auto rcm forgot about briccmii.. the first and third is with 6 wires.

I really want it to be 5 wires without the need for the rst wire.

I can get it to work with 5 wires using the original bat pad point, but not this version I need the rst wire to power button or the point on mobo.

 

[Xandroz]

each day i check the post, you update it with a new method
salute to you

i still have a week till mine comes.

 

[normal19]

why use auto rcm with this method.

I'm on 3.0.0 and I want to do this https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-...nofficially-without-burning-any-fuses.507461/ but it requires autorcm

 

[mrdude]

each day i check the post, you update it with a new method
salute to you

i still have a week till mine comes.

TBH, if you're not in a rush - I'd wait a little longer to mod as there will most likely be other ways which might be slightly easier to do. M.O.B has done a great job so far though, but there's still a couple of 'niggles' to iron out. If you're in a rush though, these methods are perfectly good enough for most people with some soldering skills.

 

[Xandroz]

yea i got the skills, its not an issue, its just that i own another switch with os licence only and want something to install untill a modchip comes out.

thats why i went with the trinket
cause im not a fan of autorcm to be honest and dont want to use a jig each time.
i just want to turn on and play and after im done power it off.

dont care much about sleep mode ill turn it off most of the time

 

[re.lax]

I’d like to start off by thanking you for this guide, I think this is a great idea. I just have a couple quick questions I’d like to clear up first. With method 3 could you just jump batt pad and 3v pads and run it to a single 3v source? The second question is if it’s possible to use the trinket to enter rcm but not send the payload at certain times, in case we wanted to load a different payload through the USBc quickly instead of flashing payloads back and fourth?

Edit: Or do you only need to hook up 3v or battery and not both?

 

[M-O-B]

well just made a start on my dongle until I've managed to get rid of that damm rst wire..I'm not installing the trinket until I have it excatly as I want it, almost there just one bloody thing, so dongle will do me for a few days lol.

I'm on 3.0.0 and I want to do this https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-...nofficially-without-burning-any-fuses.507461/ but it requires autorcm

oh right I understand now why you want it.

TBH, if you're not in a rush - I'd wait a little longer to mod as there will most likely be other ways which might be slightly easier to do. M.O.B has done a great job so far though, but there's still a couple of 'niggles' to iron out. If you're in a rush though, these methods are perfectly good enough for most people with some soldering skills.

all methods are good enough quiet a few others are doing different methods for the trinket so wait I'd agree with that.

I’d like to start off by thanking you for this guide, I think this is a great idea. I just have a couple quick questions I’d like to clear up first. With method 3 could you just jump batt pad and 3v pads and run it to a single 3v source? The second question is if it’s possible to use the trinket to enter rcm but not send the payload at certain times, in case we wanted to load a different payload through the USBc quickly instead of flashing payloads back and fourth?

Edit: Or do you only need to hook up 3v or battery and not both?

bat or 3v pad can be used and it only take a few seconds to drag and drop the CURRENT.UF2 file onto the trinket.

 

[normal19]

so is autorcm safe with trinket then

 

[Maximize0987]

I have mine on auto rcm for a couple days it is fine.

 

[M-O-B]

so is autorcm safe with trinket then

it's fine with the trinket some people say your best of using it..

I have mine on auto rcm for a couple days it is fine.

what did you use to install it.

only one I can install is briccmiiv2