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No that's 9 to 10 I did 1 to 10 with a wire as pin 9 has the possibility to change from ground to low and possibly high (hot)Didn't you just solder PIN 1 to PIN 6 ?
No that's 9 to 10 I did 1 to 10 with a wire as pin 9 has the possibility to change from ground to low and possibly high (hot)
No documented damage yet just playing it safe
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I just bought a replacement joycon rail and used that I just slide it in and out as a portable jigWell i prefer the 9 - 10 pin way because i can still use the Switch in portable mode, if you solder 10 to 1 it will not detect the joycon anymore.
That's what I didHow about installing a reed switch and then taping a magnet inside the left joycon?
Don't know why you want a picture of that but whateverShow me the magnet.
He has an attraction to magnetsDon't know why you want a picture of that but whatever
But there's no way to (publicly) do that. Although if someone does implement it, as well as a way to reverse it, that would be useful for people who are struggling to enter RCM with the hardmods.AutoRCM should be added to the list.
Ive ordered a replacement joycon rail.
Is it easy to see what points to bridge where the ribbon is attached
Going to remove ribbon or cut it depends on how it's attached or just may leave it on
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
It has been released by multiple users.But there's no way to (publicly) do that. Although if someone does implement it, as well as a way to reverse it, that would be useful for people who are struggling to enter RCM with the hardmods.
I just logged on a few minutes ago so I'm still trying to catch up on developments. If there's a way to reverse it, then this can be another alternative for people who don't want to ruin their pins or buy a jig (or their jig is faulty).It has been released by multiple users.
https://github.com/Reisyukaku/hekate/blob/master/ipl.bin?raw=true
https://switchtools.sshnuke.net/
With either option I linked to, you only need to use a hardware method of booting into RCM one time. After that, you can install AutoRCM, which will cause your Switch to coldboot into RCM automatically. You will still need your USB-C port to be able to load RCM payloads, but you will no longer need a jig, nor will you need to hold the Volume+ button on boot.I just logged on a few minutes ago so I'm still trying to catch up on developments. If there's a way to reverse it, then this can be another alternative for people who don't want to ruin their pins or buy a jig (or their jig is faulty).
Oh yeah, I just finished reading up on it. Since we have NXLoader, I don't think some people will mind carrying around a USB-C cable with them whenever they take their Switch out. And you can still reverse the whole process as long have the cable. But is the USB-C port that susceptible to damage? Haven't heard anyone reporting that yet or maybe I haven't lurked hard enough.With either option I linked to, you only need to use a hardware method of booting into RCM one time. After that, you can install AutoRCM, which will cause your Switch to coldboot into RCM automatically. You will still need a USB-C cord to be able to load RCM payloads, but you will no longer need a jig, nor will you need to hold the Volume+ button on boot.
However, this means that without a way to load RCM payloads (like CFW) using the USB-C cord, your Switch will be in an unusable state after powering it off and then on. This also means that if something happens to your USB-C port after installing AutoRCM, your Switch will be bricked.
I haven't either, but it's always a possibility.But is the USB-C port that susceptible to damage? Haven't heard anyone reporting that yet or maybe I haven't lurked hard enough.
Thanks, I added them to OPIt has been released by multiple users.
https://github.com/Reisyukaku/hekate/blob/master/ipl.bin?raw=true
https://switchtools.sshnuke.net/
Didn't you just solder PIN 1 to PIN 6 ?