Concerning the multiple wires, you can hardly notice it. You melt it’s tip with the soldering iron, the exposed length is so short and it’s already tinned, so it acts like a single core wire.
Switch OLED teardown V1/V2
- Thread starter grubgrub
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Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.
Damaged area:
Install/board pictures:
Damaged area:
Install/board pictures:
Last edited by Shrapn,
Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.
Damaged area:
Install/board pictures:
I had this issue once, I forgot to plug the WiFi antennas back in
the two plugs in the middle of the big heat shield before you put the back cover on I hope it's that!I just picked up a "broken" OLED with a ming OLED chip installed but system is dead. Previous owner tried to DIY and failed.
Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1. ALl of the other points check out with the multimeter.
I haven't put power to anything but the battery plug was connected when I opened the system. Voltage check shows that the battery is completely dead at the moment. Any chance that it can be fixed or does shorting those capacitors kill the SoC?
I'm going to get some solder wick and try to clean them up and save it, but if theres a good chance that the system is bricked I won't put too much effort in. Thoughts?
Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1. ALl of the other points check out with the multimeter.
I haven't put power to anything but the battery plug was connected when I opened the system. Voltage check shows that the battery is completely dead at the moment. Any chance that it can be fixed or does shorting those capacitors kill the SoC?
I'm going to get some solder wick and try to clean them up and save it, but if theres a good chance that the system is bricked I won't put too much effort in. Thoughts?
I would clean anything that looks badly soldered, residual flux, any visible bridges, solder splashes etc. Toothbrush and ipa 91%+, ultra sonic cleaner if you have one. Dry real well and test.
When I get it cleaned up and try to charge the battery, is there anywhere I can check for charge current? I'm getting 0V reading on the battery plug, so I want to make sure it actually charges when I get to that point
Thanks for the reply, I did make sure both were attached and checked continuity but it unfortunately is not the issueI had this issue once, I forgot to plug the WiFi antennas back in
Is there anything I can check with a multimeter to help narrow it down?Are you using double sided adhesive to hold it in place? If so do you have a link for it on amazon?
The modchip, yes. It’s 3M branded, I can’t help your further because I got it from a local store, I live in Brazil.
Got it cleaned up and booted into hekate. I can only get OFW or CFW to boot to a red screen though. What’s my next step?
Ordered some from Amazon with a bunch of other things, should arrive today.
Get Hekate and Atmosphere properly configured. But it’s completely off topic in here.
Sorry, but it is really necessary? Her have the bug?
I don't want to update, only if her have the bug too
just think:
TX modchips were manufactured and coded way before Switch OLED even existed.
Then why would it have a patched firmware for OLED compatibility?
TL;DR: flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2
Make sure you flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2, not any other fork built for HWFLY clone chips. Good luck!
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