From github, right?Make sure you flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2, not any other fork built for HWFLY clone chips. Good luck!
From github, right?Make sure you flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2, not any other fork built for HWFLY clone chips. Good luck!
Remove everything and see if it boots ofw without issue.Got it cleaned up and booted into hekate. I can only get OFW or CFW to boot to a red screen though. What’s my next step?
I'm confused as to why all the uv solder mask? Doesn't make sense...Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.
Damaged area:
Install/board pictures:
I'm confused as to why all the uv solder mask? Doesn't make sense...
He is probably wondering how you are holding the DAT0 adapter in place.Because I originally followed this tutorial:
https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxt5en27a8QyHMMjnUSGosjgh6uW-J1pTj
I've replaced the SP1/SP2 caps multiple times for people who have failed horribly. Never killed the SOCI just picked up a "broken" OLED with a ming OLED chip installed but system is dead. Previous owner tried to DIY and failed.
Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1. ALl of the other points check out with the multimeter.
I haven't put power to anything but the battery plug was connected when I opened the system. Voltage check shows that the battery is completely dead at the moment. Any chance that it can be fixed or does shorting those capacitors kill the SoC?
I'm going to get some solder wick and try to clean them up and save it, but if theres a good chance that the system is bricked I won't put too much effort in. Thoughts?
I thought he was referring to the solder mask covering the removed metal shielding. In regards to what you mentioned, long story short was I re-did everything from scratch after WiFi wasn't working, and I didn't want to solder mask the DAT0 adaptor in the event I have to replace the board.He is probably wondering how you are holding the DAT0 adapter in place.
Because in the video you posted, sthetix used the UV mask to fix the adapter, so it doesn't move.
But in your picture, the UV mask touches everything except the DAT0 adapter.
I was referring to all the mask along the edge of the board where it makes no sense. Was just curious though. I used the 6 wire chip on my own 2 oled units and everything has been smooth with them, not a single issue.I thought he was referring to the solder mask covering the removed metal shielding. In regards to what you mentioned, long story short was I re-did everything from scratch after WiFi wasn't working, and I didn't want to solder mask the DAT0 adaptor in the event I have to replace the board.
Just wanted to give a shout-out to @de9ed !
He’s the real deal and installed 2 modchips in both my OLED switches. I play primarily in handheld so OLED is definitely worth the upgrade and costs of the modchip and installation.
I actually tried to do 1 install myself and it fried the switch. I thought I did the install right and all the diode values were correct, but yet I still saw some smoke after turning it on to test. So lost confidence in my skills and decided to have a pro like @de9ed do the installs for me.
I found out later the reason my install failed is because there is a bug in spacecraft v1 on the Hwfly lite modchip that if you turn on the switch with no sd card inserted, it sends 5v to the switch and fries it. It pains me that I killed it by just forgetting to plug in the sd card, but at least I know now my micro soldering skills are decent for being a beginner!
View attachment 295318
What exactly did you fried and how you fixed it?
I think I fried the CPU, unsure though. Could heart a faint buzzing sound near the battery every time I tried turning it on.
I noticed after it was fried, all the solder around 3.3v point on motherboard had melted and spread a lot. Probably due to the 5v being sent there instead of 3.3v.
To be honest, I wasn't able to fix the issue. I bought a new one from Walmart, swapped the back case showing the serial number, and returned it as defective and got a refund. Unethical I know, but f*ck Walmart.
Prices on things aren't going up just because stores want to increase them. Their costs have increased, price of fuel for transporting trailers full of products we purchase has increased, shortages on chips means companies have raised the wholesale prices on things they buy that we buy...Oh, ok.
And don't worry about ethics. I don't even want to go there! Unethical is those bastards take tons of profit in every single item they sell. Every increase in price due to inflation or whatever, is always supported by the customer, so yeah, f... them real hard!
I'm almost making a deal for an original SXOS core but I'm not sure if I'm confident enough to do this. But I might take the chance! I have the tools and etc, I'm just not sure I have the fine tuned skills needed for some parts of the soldering. I mean, the videos seems pretty easy, but then, when it's on our hands, things always become tricky. I have been practicing on some dead small device boards I have lying around and to be honest, only the wires I tried to solder to chip pins were harder. Harder in the sense that the gap between pins is so small, that it's even hard to keep the wire still and apply solder and the iron at the same time while keeping the wire in place. And other times, is bridging, no matter how much flux you put there! Sometimes, bridges just don't get loose! Other times is the solder that gets stick to the middle of the iron tip (instead of sticking to the very end of the tip) and doesn't stick to the pad/pin/wire/etc!
They dont put broken electronicss back on shelf. Gamestop is another story though. But yah I hear ya.Prices on things aren't going up just because stores want to increase them. Their costs have increased, price of fuel for transporting trailers full of products we purchase has increased, shortages on chips means companies have raised the wholesale prices on things they buy that we buy...
If you mess up your console and do what he did, that means someone else is going to buy it and end up with a defective product. Now if the store says deal with Nintendo and they send it in and open it and see this is obviously not a manufacturing error, they'll deny warranty.
So really what's the ethical solution here? It's to bite the bullet and either get it repaired or sell it as broken for parts.
Removed the chip completely and still same issue. I think it’s the “orange screen of death”. Luckily I didn’t pay much for this oneI've replaced the SP1/SP2 caps multiple times for people who have failed horribly. Never killed the SOC
They don't know it's broken, he swapped the serial numbers and probably said it was a repeat gift, would be sold as new or open box, so whoever buys it gets screwed. If he returned it saying it was broken there'd be no reason to swap the serial numbers.They dont put broken electronicss back on shelf. Gamestop is another story though. But yah I hear ya.
Just because this thread took a bit of a nose dive, and I actually did too on my first attempt haha... I cooked the SP2 cap in an attempt to "fix" the solder job as I wasn't getting past the blinking yellow learning stage. I got the "purple screen of death"... I ended up pulling the modchip and components and returned it. The way I see it was... Kept the sales guy at GameStop busy for a bit, the mail service shipping it to back Japan or wherever, the technicians Nintendo eventually sends it to, and the freight services people in between all busy and employed, and I get to take another crack at my mod. Will I get banned someday if the news ever gets back to Nintendo proper that it was clearly an attempt at installing a mod chip? Maybe... Doubtful lol.. Was it the most ethical choice? Nope. But, alas I am poor. Poor enough I can justify this choice in my mind. Honestly I could have returned it with nothing but some rocks glued inside to add weight and they would've accepted it. No ID checks, phone number, nothing. I wasn't THAT much of a low life, and at least gave back the whole thing.
Prices on things aren't going up just because stores want to increase them. Their costs have increased, price of fuel for transporting trailers full of products we purchase has increased, shortages on chips means companies have raised the wholesale prices on things they buy that we buy...
If you mess up your console and do what he did, that means someone else is going to buy it and end up with a defective product. Now if the store says deal with Nintendo and they send it in and open it and see this is obviously not a manufacturing error, they'll deny warranty.
So really what's the ethical solution here? It's to bite the bullet and either get it repaired or sell it as broken for parts.
He said he swapped back and thats not swapping serials as they are on left corner of tablet. He noobed it and so did the return person or they gave no fucks.They don't know it's broken, he swapped the serial numbers and probably said it was a repeat gift, would be sold as new or open box, so whoever buys it gets screwed. If he returned it saying it was broken there'd be no reason to swap the serial numbers.
Make sense?
Edit, I re read the post and do see he stated it was defective. Why swap the serial numbers then, doesn't really add up to be honest.
I still say if you broke it yourself, then that's on you.
Gas prices go up and down daily yet the systems retail prices stay the same for years. Food for thought.Yes, but those costs are being mostly supported by the costumer. They are not taking the increase of fuels, transports, etc. They pay more, but the costumer pays also more. So, who takes the "damage"? I think it's the costumer! That's what I mean. I didn't mean that they don't have increased prices for themselves. I meant that, at the end of the day, customer pays for all those price increases!
It's like a car. The shop buys it for 10k, then they sell it for 17k. Next year price for the shop increases for 2k, so they pay 12k, but the costumer will pay 19k... The 2k are being supported by the costumer!