Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

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Just did it with no reballing, nor pcbway adapter ✌🏼 heck, I didn't even reflow it cause it was getting late and gotta go to work :(

Btw, I don't think the extra 0.03mm matters

View attachment 283914
How exactly did you do?
Try and error fitting a wire roughly in the position?
I have some questions:
1) what would happen if you short pin 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 while fitting the wire?
2) how did you "measure" or know you touched the right ball? Like on the X360 Post Fix if you measure it to GND it would give you a reading or about 500-520Ohms and you'd know it's right. :)
3) How? Just how? LOL

Congrats man!
 
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How exactly did you do?
Try and error fitting a wire roughly in the position?
I have some questions:
1) what would happen if you short pin 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 while fitting the wire?
2) how did you "measure" or know you touched the right ball? Like on the X360 Post Fix if you measure it to GND it would give you a reading or about 500-520Ohms and you'd know it's right. :)
3) How? Just how? LOL

Congrats man!
I did try the wire thing at first, but then I found an easier method that I am not disclosing until I run out of stock 😅

But yeah, I did test some of the things you ask that might be handy. So to try to do this, first I did remove one BGA 153 NAND, but from an old v1 switch that I had for parts, that way it was easier to measure things that would fit and touch the right thing.

Having those rough measurements, I tried to test in diode mode: pins 1 and 2 are n/c, 3/4/and I think 5 as well (maybe all of them) reads ~442.

To answer your number 1: I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I did short some of the pins, maybe 2 and 3, or 3 and 4, because a couple of times I had a blinking blue light, then solid red, and I got wrong readings (like ~880) so I knew something was touching smth else, but the good news is, it still booted normally after connecting it the right way. Your mileage may vary tho.

3) I've been trialing and erroring for like 12 hours straight, I'm brain dead right now.
 
I did try the wire thing at first, but then I found an easier method that I am not disclosing until I run out of stock 😅

But yeah, I did test some of the things you ask that might be handy. So to try to do this, first I did remove one BGA 153 NAND, but from an old v1 switch that I had for parts, that way it was easier to measure things that would fit and touch the right thing.

Having those rough measurements, I tried to test in diode mode: pins 1 and 2 are n/c, 3/4/and I think 5 as well (maybe all of them) reads ~442.

To answer your number 1: I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I did short some of the pins, maybe 2 and 3, or 3 and 4, because a couple of times I had a blinking blue light, then solid red, and I got wrong readings (like ~880) so I knew something was touching smth else, but the good news is, it still booted normally after connecting it the right way. Your mileage may vary tho.

3) I've been trialing and erroring for like 12 hours straight, I'm brain dead right now.
Fair enough for your very first line and I won't judge you! Honestly! :)

The measures stayed the same after you use your method with a successful boot into hekate? I mean, with the eMMC in place the good measure still reads around 442?

Congratulations for your findings!
 
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Fair enough for your very first line and I won't judge you! Honestly! :)

The measures stayed the same after you use your method with a successful boot into hekate? I mean, with the eMMC in place the good measure still reads around 442?

Congratulations for your findings!
Yep, around that value
 
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I did try the wire thing at first, but then I found an easier method that I am not disclosing until I run out of stock 😅

But yeah, I did test some of the things you ask that might be handy. So to try to do this, first I did remove one BGA 153 NAND, but from an old v1 switch that I had for parts, that way it was easier to measure things that would fit and touch the right thing.

Having those rough measurements, I tried to test in diode mode: pins 1 and 2 are n/c, 3/4/and I think 5 as well (maybe all of them) reads ~442.

To answer your number 1: I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I did short some of the pins, maybe 2 and 3, or 3 and 4, because a couple of times I had a blinking blue light, then solid red, and I got wrong readings (like ~880) so I knew something was touching smth else, but the good news is, it still booted normally after connecting it the right way. Your mileage may vary tho.

3) I've been trialing and erroring for like 12 hours straight, I'm brain dead right now.
3 are DAT0
4 are DAT 1 and
5 are DAT 2

These pins reads 442 because all of then is Data lines
 
Which chip did you use? Was your process much easier than removing the chip or using that adaptor?
Sx lite, and yup, my method was easier, but I don't think it is waaay easier than using an adapter like the pcbway one.

I just didn't want to wait until you guys decide if it is 0.1 or 0.13mm with how many copper micrometers. I was losing it. And then having it shipped here would take until 2022 🤦🏽‍♂️
 
Last edited by Chimech0,
I dont get how he could have done it. I got my OLED done yesterday with an SX lite chip and the reballling was time consuming but it was all worth it .
With a lot of patience and willingness to do it (and also risk it), without having to wait until Dec/Jan for the stencil I ordered.
 
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PICA0048.jpg



PICA0050.jpg
 
Awesome!

Just bought mine today.
It will take some time until it arrives tough :/
What were the PCB specs you used on the cart checkout? I know there are a few specs in the project description, but there looks to be more/different options in the cart. Sorry, but never ordered these before.
 
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