Hacking DEAD [Shutdown]DragonInjector - Game Cart Payload Injector (Trinket M0 Clone)

[pietempgba]

@MatinatorX can you add a way to make it so I can change between 2 payloads? Also how do I add payloads to this?

 

[Timgamer]

Hello , @MatinatorX ,I would like to know if it will work one day , I doubt it will ever be on the market ? Reply to me as soon as possible please . Goodbye .

 

[mehmet-efe61]

@MatinatorX can you add a way to make it so I can change between 2 payloads? Also how do I add payloads to this?

@MatinatorX said that there will be a button for switching payloads. Even if there isn't one in the final version, yiu can always use hekate v4 to launch external payloads.

 

[pietempgba]

@MatinatorX said that there will be a button for switching payloads. Even if there isn't one in the final version, yiu can always use hekate v4 to launch external payloads.

thanks and yeah i know about hekate im just waiting for reinx to be supported for chainloading.

 

[pietempgba]

oh nvm it does support chainloading

 

[MatinatorX]

Is it possible the issue you're experiencing with the dongle staying on isn't to do with the transistor but rather maybe a short pulling the transistor gate up? I'm thinking the connection to the switch mainboard through the usb-c may have some unknown trace, a capacitor acting like a sink, or some kind of other apparatus that's pulling the pin up.

Or did I misunderstand and it's staying on even when disconnected?

It's possible something funny is going on like that but I tried 3 different devices (My phone, my Switch and my PC) and all of them behaved the same, which the dongle staying powered even when removed from the device. I've swapped the MOSFET for a transistor in the latest revision, so hopefully that doesn't give me issues. I'll know for sure once the boards arrive hopefully this week.

I posted the schematic earlier in the thread, looking over it again I'm still not sure why the resistor and diode wouldn't pull the gate low but the transistor won't need either of those. Removing the MOSFET and soldering two wires to the source and drain, then touching them together and breaking the connection worked just fine, so I know it was the MOSFET.

It's also possible I fried it with the heat gun. It ended up being faster without it anyways so I won't be using it again.

 

[Deleted member 461907]

Where do I place my order?

 

[Triptamine]

Where do I place my order?

You don't yet. MatinatorX is waiting for boards to get it working as desired then sending some off to testers. Then I believe a public batch will be made and sold through his tindie.

I want one asap too but I'm glad we're getting all this dedication to quality control and QA. Patience man! This is looking to be the best launcher on the market lets not rush progress.

 

[Underprivlidged]

I'd be willing to pay for a test unit. I've been dabbling with quite a few different things, but until I get a 3d printer I can't do much making like this.

 

[MatinatorX]

Hey everyone, time for another update!

First of all, I'd like to thank everyone for their patience and support. I know the project has taken longer than anticipated thanks to some unforeseen issues and I'm sorry I haven't been able to meet the "best case" deadlines I had set. Hardware is a tricky thing sometimes and even the smallest change to the PCB adds at least a week to the project (as well as a good chunk of my time and cash budgeted for my hobbies) while I wait for them to be manufactured and shipped. You all have been really understanding about this and I'm grateful for that.

So, what's going on with the project right now? As previously mentioned, I'm waiting on the new boards to arrive. They were ordered last week and will hopefully be here this week, at which time I'll solder one up and get to testing. If it works, I'll post a video demonstrating such and get to work soldering up the ten prototype units.

In addition to the schematic fixes, there have also been many of other changes to the PCB to facilitate hand soldering. This will remove a good bit of frustration and save time both for myself and anyone else who wants to try to build one. The SMD parts are now largely all in a single row and have silkscreen identifiers now. The Type C footprint was modified to remove unused pins and have large solder reservoirs which, combined with the thicker 0.8mm board, should make soldering the Type C connector magnitudes easier than it was before. Many component footprints were enlarged as well, such as the RGB LED, for easier soldering. Gerber images are below.

One other thing that was bothering me was the single screw holding the board in. It was functional, but I started to worry that over time the PCB may warp with heat from the console or some other unforeseen issue and raise up slightly. It might be paranoia, but I've added two more screws to the design, one to secure the edge of the board properly and another to further strengthen the Type C port so it's secured on both sides.

This leads me into the next change. I mentioned the new board design before, even if I didn't have time to go into great detail at that moment. Something I didn't mention before is that I'm also waiting on a new case design.

Long story short, while making the latest revision of the PCB I found a bunch of ways to optimize part locations, traces etc. and in doing so I managed to shave the length of the board down by quite a bit, which gave me a lot more room to play with for the design. If I think I can make something better, I don't really give myself any choice but try. I was getting a little dissatisfied with the old case design and didn't like a few things about it, such as the cap being held on by the friction of the Type C port or the big ugly holes for the buttons and RGB LED. I had a new PCB I was quite proud of and I really wanted a new case to match. Shrinking the PCB was all the motivation I needed for a redesign and I now have a case I'm quite happy with. I've attached some basic renders below. I will update the main post with proper renders and a revised poster as soon as I can find the time - day job is still quite busy and overtime is still required which limits my time to work on the project.

The cap now slides on via a butterfly groove which should be much easier to put on and take off and should stand up much better to years of abuse. The switches were replaced with low profile tactile domes and are getting proper plastic buttons for them now. The jig is largely unchanged other than adding a bit more length so it's more comfortable to use and easier to install the resistor.. I'm still getting the prototype cases made through 3DHubs and they should be here shortly after the new boards arrive, but I also now have two Anycubic Photon printers in the mail that I bought a few days ago that I can't wait to put to work.

Anyways, I think that about covers where the project stands right now. I'd really like some feedback on the new case and PCB design so please let me know what you think!

EDIT: Forgot to mention that all the components and circuitry for card slot charging is still present in case a software solution is found later to make it work. I put the solder bridge pads for the "detect" pin on the exposed side of the PCB near the logo so you don't have to take it to bits to enable the feature. Also, the "R" button is the reset button and the "+" button will be used to change payloads. Also, the board will be black, not green.

 

[Deleted member 461907]

Man that looks great. It's going to be the best dongle and jig by far. No doubt the other companies will copy your design right after production. I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't already.

 

[Konsus]

Nice job! I really like the aspects of the redesign, the only thing which bothers me, is that's a little little bit uncomfortable to only be able to pull out the resistor after the jig.

Those plastic buttons make the card very precious

Man that looks great. It's going to be the best dongle and jig by far. No doubt the other companies will copy your design right after production. I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't already.

Wait for the SX Pro mini

 

[MatinatorX]

Nice job! I really like the aspects of the redesign, the only thing which bothers me, is that's a little little bit uncomfortable to only be able to pull out the resistor after the jig.

Those plastic buttons make the card very precious

Thanks! I'm not sure what you mean about the resistor though. It's not pictured in those renders, but once the resistor is installed (by me) it gets glued into place and never moves again as it's part of the jig. I wanted it to be a requirement to remove the cap to get access to the jig so the jig couldn't come loose if you were storing this in one of those mesh game card cases.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Man that looks great. It's going to be the best dongle and jig by far. No doubt the other companies will copy your design right after production. I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't already.

I will consider it a compliment if a company feels the need to copy a hobby project I did on my own in my spare time for fun.

 

[Konsus]

Thanks! I'm not sure what you mean about the resistor though.

I am sorry for the confusion. I meant the jig instead of the resistor.

The way of storing is well thought, I was too concentrated on my own laziness. Does the jig put a bit pressure onto the USB C port to keep the dongle in place? Or how good does the card holdnig up its position?

 

[pietempgba]

This looks really awesome thanks @MatinatorX

Also does the USB c take a little but of pressure to plug into the switch? I noticed that on some USB c cords I have lying around and I don't like it much.

 

[MatinatorX]

I am sorry for the confusion. I meant the jig instead of the resistor.

The way of storing is well thought, I was too concentrated on my own laziness. Does the jig put a bit pressure onto the USB C port to keep the dongle in place? Or how good does the card holdnig up its position?

No pressure on the Type C port, I want it to last.

Rather, the thinner section of the jig will be a friction fit into the slot thanks to the resistor leads. I've attached a better angle illustrating such.

The butterfly groove for the cap will also be friction fit but much less so since there is more surface area, only enough so it won't fall off in a bag etc.

 

[Deleted member 461907]

No pressure on the Type C port, I want it to last.

Rather, the thinner section of the jig will be a friction fit into the slot thanks to the resistor leads. I've attached a better angle illustrating such.

View attachment 142369

Are the pins on the jog going to wrap underneath, or maybe point out then conceal the end?

 

[XiorgON]

@MatinatorX

i have lost my word,.. Wow this v4 is so nice. Good damm thanks and thanks again
i continue to wait, i never forget the dev, the tech, the engineer you are. Its a wonderful day

:-)

XiorgON

 

[Konsus]

That's an AAA++ design!

 

[MatinatorX]

@MatinatorX

i have lost my word,.. Wow this v4 is so nice. Good damm thanks and thanks again
i continue to wait, i never forget the dev, the tech, the engineer you are. Its a wonderful day

:-)

XiorgON

Thanks buddy!

Also, before anyone bugs me about the buttons spinning around and looking funny, I have little tabs in the latest version I forgot about for the above render. See attached:



--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Are the pins on the jog going to wrap underneath, or maybe point out then conceal the end?

They wrap underneath. There are two exit holes on the front that follow the grooves, then wrap underneath, then there are two more holes in the bottom at the back to pull the extra length back up into where the resistor is. Then the extra get snipped and some glue or epoxy is put in. Check the concept poster in the first post, the jig is pretty much unchanged.

 

[pietempgba]

@MatinatorX so I assume if the battery ever messes up we can replace it ourselves