Project is unfortunately dead due to C&D. See last post here.
Last edited by MatinatorX,
Cool idea! If I were you, I would get rid of the jig and just install AutoRCM, it would streamline everything. And if you want, PM me the pictures and I'll post em
That is a really cool idea. Even for those that have retail games, most of us use a pouch and those usually hold 10 or more games, so the dongle with jig would fit in one of the slots designated for cartridges. Also, it would be the smallest dongle/jig yet if you can accomplish it.Hey all,
I want to share a project I'm currently working on - a payload injector shaped like a Switch game cart!
As I seem to always forget to bring my phone or dongle with me, and I'm not a big fan of AutoRCM, I started thinking - wouldn't it be great if I could just store my jig and dongle inside my switch? I don't really like the idea of opening my switch and soldering to it for warranty/resale reasons, and my card slot is always empty because, well, we live in the age of digital.
Thus, DragonInjector was born.
This project is based on the open source Trinket M0 and has three main goals:
1) Everything must fit inside the dimensions of a standard Nintendo Switch game cart. This includes the enclosure and RCM Jig.
2) Anything not necessary for the operation of the dongle will be removed for space/power savings. This thing needs to run for weeks on a CR1616. Goodbye LDO, APA-102 LED and always-on power LED!
3) Needs to have a 90's hacker movie name.
I did not want to compromise on usability and convenience, so I deemed the reset button, power switch and status LED as "necessary". The cap for the USB plug will function as the RCM jig. (Or so is the plan.)
Project milestones are as follows:
1) Make schematic/design board with Eagle and Fusion360 - DONE.
2) Order parts and PCB's - DONE.
3) Model enclosure to have exact dimensions and features of Switch game cart - IN PROGRESS.
4) Soldering, programming and testing of board - Waiting on parts.
5) Print the case on my FDM 3D printer. PETG for board enclosure, FLEX for cap/RCM jig.
6) Tweaking. Add cool factor.
7) Final prototype. Splurge for nice SLS enclosure from Shapeways.
So, the board design is done. Let me tell you, fitting everything in a 22mm x 22mm x 2.7mm space while staying within PCB design spec was a royal pain. But now it's done. Parts and PCBs are on their way. Next step is for me to get a cheap game cart from somewhere so I can model all the little features that help it align/click in place/not ruin the slot pins. Should be a few weeks, mostly spent camping my mailbox, before I have a working prototype.
For the few brave souls who want to try this themselves, once I have a working prototype I'll share the gerbers and parts list. If you're not comfortable soldering 0603 resistors by hand you might want to steer clear though. The firmware will be exactly the same as for the Trinket M0, save for some changes for LED stuffs as this one's on PA00 (D0).
More details will follow later. Pictures under the spoiler. The black plastic slab is your basic cart dimensions of 34mm x 23mm x 3.2mm. I do this as a hobby so questions and feedback are welcome!
EDIT: Can't post pictures yet. Or share links. Any help? I have Imgur links at the ready.
First of all, great ideia!! Would be also great if we can understand if the cartridge pins are powered while in RCM. This way, the battery wouldn't be needed at all as it could fetch the 3.3V and GND straight from the cart rails.
So we can inject a payload through the cartrige slot ?
I think y'all are misinterpreting the post. OP's not trying to send the payload through the cartridge slot (at least not yet, that would be an awesome idea if we could!), this is just a dongle that is small enough that it would fit in a Switch game cartridge.
And I think it looks amazing. I would buy this over TX's dongle any day! Sign me up! I want to pre-order!
Yes, I know that and I think you misunderstood my post: until now, you need a 3V power supply for the trinket. In my case I did it with a CR2032 and OP is suggesting using a CR1616 which is half the size. What I'm suggesting is to use the GND and 3.3V lines from the cartridge slot (in case it still delivers 3.3V while in RCM) to power up the trinket. This way, you'd just insert the trinket cartridge, connect usb to it, and voilá!!
Yes, I know that and I think you misunderstood my post: until now, you need a 3V power supply for the trinket. In my case I did it with a CR2032 and OP is suggesting using a CR1616 which is half the size. What I'm suggesting is to use the GND and 3.3V lines from the cartridge slot (in case it still delivers 3.3V while in RCM) to power up the trinket. This way, you'd just insert the trinket cartridge, connect usb to it, and voilá!!
I've been thinking about this a bit too - what to do if there's lots of interest, since the feedback so far has been really positive (thanks everyone!). I know for sure I want to release the gerbers and parts list and maybe the model too for free so that anyone who wants to can make their own. That said, while it's far too early to plan anything, I get that SMD soldering is a rare hobby. So, if this thing turns out well enough I'm open to making more to sell to the community. If I remember right, there's a license for this kind of stuff that allows me to give out the designs and stuff so you can use them for anything short of selling them yourself.And I think it looks amazing. I would buy this over TX's dongle any day! Sign me up! I want to pre-order!
ohI think y'all are misinterpreting the post. OP's not trying to send the payload through the cartridge slot (at least not yet, that would be an awesome idea if we could!), this is just a dongle that is small enough that it would fit in a Switch game cartridge.
And I think it looks amazing. I would buy this over TX's dongle any day! Sign me up! I want to pre-order!
That is a really cool idea. Even for those that have retail games, most of us use a pouch and those usually hold 10 or more games, so the dongle with jig would fit in one of the slots designated for cartridges. Also, it would be the smallest dongle/jig yet if you can accomplish it.