10&9, 10&7 and 10&1 are your optionsI ordered a rail, what are the pins I'm supposed to bridge? With the foil I did 10-9 not sure if 10-1 make a difference?
10&9, 10&7 and 10&1 are your optionsI ordered a rail, what are the pins I'm supposed to bridge? With the foil I did 10-9 not sure if 10-1 make a difference?
don't use pin 9. It's not a TRUE ground, just an I/O line at ground so it isn't necessarily reliable.10&9, 10&7 and 10&1 are your options
10&9 only for internal joycon modding, and only recommended now if you have some kind of switch attached.10&9, 10&7 and 10&1 are your options
Yea them.. Freudian slipThat is fail0verflows design not xecuters. It alot safer than shoving a hard paperclip in there.
don't use it at all, there is no reason to use a pin with unknown function instead of a ground pin. It would be foolish.10&9 only for internal joycon modding, and only recommended now if you have some kind of switch attached.
10&9 only for internal joycon modding, and only recommended now if you have some kind of switch attached.
doesn't matter, both a magnetic reed switch and a toggle or pushbutton switch create a short when actuated. As far as the circuit is concerned they are equivalent.By “switch” would you also mean a button or just a reed switch? I’m planning on using another joy con I have to do either a reed or a button, but I don’t know which to use lol
obviously depends what you are doing I guess. I simply not sticking a steel paper clip into blind 0.5mm connector pins, every, not even once. It gives me chills, and I know exactly what I'm doing and it still terrifies me. That's all.How often will you really need to use the jig though? Its only needed for a coldboot. As long as you don't let the battery die or get stuck in a system lock, the jig isn't needed.
obviously depends what you are doing I guess. I simply not sticking a steel paper clip into blind 0.5mm connector pins, every, not even once. It gives me chills, and I know exactly what I'm doing and it still terrifies me. That's all.
OMG are you serious? That was the whole point of this thread.If it is terrifying then you prob should not be doing it.
Now that we have AutoRCM, we only need the jig once to install it. The problem is it prevents your Switch from booting or even charging without a payload that lets us go into Horizon. And the current payload that allows us to do this doesn't support sleep mode. However, once Atmosphere comes out, it'll be useful to use AutoRCM if you don't want to keep your Switch in sleep mode 24/7.How often will you really need to use the jig though? Its only needed for a coldboot. As long as you don't let the battery die or get stuck in a system lock, the jig isn't needed.
OMG are you serious? That was the whole point of this thread.
you deserve a prize. and yes, I agree with you 100% hahahahahahah GEEZ..
Now that we have AutoRCM, we only need the jig once to install it. The problem is it prevents your Switch from booting or even charging without a payload that lets us go into Horizon. And the current payload that allows us to do this doesn't support sleep mode. However, once Atmosphere comes out, it'll be useful to use AutoRCM if you don't want to keep your Switch in sleep mode 24/7.
I apologize, what was your point you were trying to make.You missed MY point entirely.
Better, you want to go from 10 to 1 or 10 to 7, and put a resistor between them.I think it's detectable on latest joy-con FW and a bad permanent solution that is said to cause troubles\damage after a lot of time using it, no idea... It's better that you remove the solder trace and solder a cable to pin 10+1
Now with a button even if you use 9+10 after booting you won't have them touching anymore so it's not as bad...
Especially if nintendo finds a way to poll the "home button" being constantly pressed and starts handing out bans.Yep, or that, but I would go with your idea instead soldering a magnetic switch instead or a physical button, I wouldn't want a full permanent short my self...