Picofly AIO Thread

[Solo761]

Hello all, I'm in a bit of a predicament with one Switch V2, first one I tried to mod. To cut long story short, right capacitor (SP2) on CPU is gone and it's left pad is also gone (circled in the image below, not my image, one I found on the net). Right one is present.

Are both SP1 and SP2 connections necessary or it can work with only SP1?


Long story:

There was an attempt to install picofly in it, but as it can be seen didn't exactly succeeded... I tried scratching a bit on the place where left pad was and managed to get a bit copper, but there's really not much of it so I wasn't able to get solder to stick there.
Is it mandatory for both SP1 and SP2 to be present for picofly to work?

Attempt was made with RP2040-Zero board, flex cable for CPU (soldered to SP1 only, looked like there was OK contact with flexcable), and wires for spots around the board. When turned on picofly blinked it's code for EMMC init failure and switch booted normally. I rechecked wires, there were no shorts and there was continuity between test points on motherboard and picofly spots. To be sure I even tried one of my own RP2040-Zero boards, freshly flashed with fw2.73, swapped them but no change, EMMC Init failure...

I removed everything and cleaned it as much as I could and it still works (mostly, touch doesn't seem to work, joycons do...). Tried installing some demo games and left it to run for a bit while looping and no crashes or anything so at least it's not dead. Maybe touch will also work when I get new touch controller board.

I'm not sure if I could get something to stick and make contact to SP2 point. Maybe using conductive glue? So if both are required maybe it's better to simply fix what doesn't work and say it can't be modded.

 

[TheBad]

Hello all, I'm in a bit of a predicament with one Switch V2, first one I tried to mod. To cut long story short, right capacitor (SP2) on CPU is gone and it's left pad is also gone (circled in the image below, not my image, one I found on the net). Right one is present.

Are both SP1 and SP2 connections necessary or it can work with only SP1?


Long story:

There was an attempt to install picofly in it, but as it can be seen didn't exactly succeeded... I tried scratching a bit on the place where left pad was and managed to get a bit copper, but there's really not much of it so I wasn't able to get solder to stick there.
Is it mandatory for both SP1 and SP2 to be present for picofly to work?

Attempt was made with RP2040-Zero board, flex cable for CPU (soldered to SP1 only, looked like there was OK contact with flexcable), and wires for spots around the board. When turned on picofly blinked it's code for EMMC init failure and switch booted normally. I rechecked wires, there were no shorts and there was continuity between test points on motherboard and picofly spots. To be sure I even tried one of my own RP2040-Zero boards, freshly flashed with fw2.73, swapped them but no change, EMMC Init failure...

I removed everything and cleaned it as much as I could and it still works (mostly, touch doesn't seem to work, joycons do...). Tried installing some demo games and left it to run for a bit while looping and no crashes or anything so at least it's not dead. Maybe touch will also work when I get new touch controller board.

I'm not sure if I could get something to stick and make contact to SP2 point. Maybe using conductive glue? So if both are required maybe it's better to simply fix what doesn't work and say it can't be modded.

That cap will not affect your console, it should work properly. Touch screen problem is maybe ripped flex cable of digitizer, upload some photos.

You can use only one mosfet. Check the picofly guide.

 

[HacksNDrones]

I managed to get my OLED booting Hekate. I must say I like the alternative mofet install

points...

 

[WalangAlam]

how to convert this chinese to english? there is no language settings in the system settings? can picofly jailbreak fix this

 

[RedFawkes]

Thanks for suggesting this.

I now replace my resistors as you suggested without bothering to see if 47/47/47 would work first.

Zero issues

I followed up on the suggestion from @QuiTim to use 0201 resistors. I used very fine solder paste applied with a sewing needle and hot air.
It's very satisfying to see them snap into place as the paste melts.

Doing another one right now so thought I'd add a couple of pictures of the 100ohm resistor swap.

Might help someone...

 

[Solo761]

That cap will not affect your console, it should work properly. Touch screen problem is maybe ripped flex cable of digitizer, upload some photos.

You can use only one mosfet. Check the picofly guide.

Thank you!

I guess I'll get "RP2040-NS" kit and try with that. Looks easier than to mess with wires, and this switch already looks abused enough with wire installs, and I've already installed that on one switch successfully.

Flex cables look fine, I've googled a bit and found that cartridge board also houses touch controller and and replacement can fix touchpad not working so for now I'll try doing that.

 

[..::MaxWell::..]

I had an installer complete a HWFLY clone RP2040 OLED modchip install on my OLED switch. Soldering work was well done and clean - diode readings all seem to be normal.

Switch booted up completely fine into Hekate, I immediately made a NAND backup and then proceeded to create a partition-based EmuMMC for atmosphere.

Upon setting up the switch further - I realized I never booted OFW after the modchip install. Everytime I boot into OFW, it shows the Nintendo logo followed by a blackscreen.

Can anyone guide me on how I should proceed?

TLR
- RP2040 OLED HWFLY clone modchip installed
- Booted into hekate and immediately made a NAND backup, followed by the creation of a partition-based EmuMMC
- Works great for hekate and CFW Emunand Atmosphere - no issues
- CANNOT BOOT OFW - shows Nintendo logo followed by black screen
- Can't boot into nintendo Maintenance mode?
- OLED has a SK Hynix EMMC on my TOTK OLED - hekate emmc benchmark shows no issues
- Installer used the flex cables and modchip shown in the attached photo.
- Picofly toolbox shows 2.73 is the firmware on the modchip

EDIT:
when restoring my nand backup, it completes and then gives me the following message
"eMMC Issues Check
Your eMMC is initialized in slower mode! This might mean hardware issues! You might want to check Console Info -> eMMC"

Could this be due to the flex cable causing interference with the Sk Hynix eMMC? I've read certain flex cables work for Hynix eMMC while samsung and toshiba are not as picky?

I can always request my installer go back in to wire directly to the modchip and remove the FPCB flex cable - but don't want to ask them to do anything further until I know what this could be.

I also am unsure if it is a Picofly issue entirely - where the wiring is not strong enough as I have seen 47 Ohms resistors required but my installer never did anything further than use the materials provided in the photo. Would switching to a HWFLY chip shaped exactly like my RP2040 clone fix this issue perhaps? Specifically the "Newest Hwfly Oled V5 Deluxe Flashable Chips" being sold?

 

[LuigiGad]

the first thing I do when I finish installing the picofly is to do an original boot, before even creating the emuemmc. if under hekate management the original memory starts everything MUST work. I also always check through the emmc info if there are slow mode problems. In all the OLEDs I have worked on I have NEVER had slow emmc problems. the only slow emmc problems I had were with the Erista revision where I had to add an additional 47ohm on dat0 and cmd.

 

[..::MaxWell::..]

the first thing I do when I finish installing the picofly is to do an original boot, before even creating the emuemmc. if under hekate management the original memory starts everything MUST work. I also always check through the emmc info if there are slow mode problems. In all the OLEDs I have worked on I have NEVER had slow emmc problems. the only slow emmc problems I had were with the Erista revision where I had to add an additional 47ohm on dat0 and cmd.

Yeah I wish I knew to do that. Any advice on how to move forward?

 

[deeps]

Yeah I wish I knew to do that. Any advice on how to move forward?

Take it back to your installer and ask him to add an extra 47ohm on points C and A

 

[..::MaxWell::..]

Take it back to your installer and ask him to add an extra 47ohm on points C and A

Would purchasing an OLED HWFLY v5 deluxe flashable (blue seller) chip with the same flex cable design maybe fix the issue without going back to my installer? It shares the same cable design and chip shape - just not a Picofly. It seems like only Picofly based boards require these extra resistors - so theoretically switching it out for a HWFLY v5 would not face these same issues for slow eMMC?

 

[TheBad]

I had an installer complete a HWFLY clone RP2040 OLED modchip install on my OLED switch. Soldering work was well done and clean - diode readings all seem to be normal.

Switch booted up completely fine into Hekate, I immediately made a NAND backup and then proceeded to create a partition-based EmuMMC for atmosphere.

Upon setting up the switch further - I realized I never booted OFW after the modchip install. Everytime I boot into OFW, it shows the Nintendo logo followed by a blackscreen.

Can anyone guide me on how I should proceed?

TLR
- RP2040 OLED HWFLY clone modchip installed
- Booted into hekate and immediately made a NAND backup, followed by the creation of a partition-based EmuMMC
- Works great for hekate and CFW Emunand Atmosphere - no issues
- CANNOT BOOT OFW - shows Nintendo logo followed by black screen
- Can't boot into nintendo Maintenance mode?
- OLED has a SK Hynix EMMC on my TOTK OLED - hekate emmc benchmark shows no issues
- Installer used the flex cables and modchip shown in the attached photo.
- Picofly toolbox shows 2.73 is the firmware on the modchip

EDIT:
when restoring my nand backup, it completes and then gives me the following message
"eMMC Issues Check
Your eMMC is initialized in slower mode! This might mean hardware issues! You might want to check Console Info -> eMMC"

Could this be due to the flex cable causing interference with the Sk Hynix eMMC? I've read certain flex cables work for Hynix eMMC while samsung and toshiba are not as picky?

I can always request my installer go back in to wire directly to the modchip and remove the FPCB flex cable - but don't want to ask them to do anything further until I know what this could be.

I also am unsure if it is a Picofly issue entirely - where the wiring is not strong enough as I have seen 47 Ohms resistors required but my installer never did anything further than use the materials provided in the photo. Would switching to a HWFLY chip shaped exactly like my RP2040 clone fix this issue perhaps? Specifically the "Newest Hwfly Oled V5 Deluxe Flashable Chips" being sold?

You have problem with DAT0 adapter. Reseat it even the values are in specs.

 

[deeps]

Would purchasing an OLED HWFLY v5 deluxe flashable (blue seller) chip with the same flex cable design maybe fix the issue without going back to my installer? It shares the same cable design and chip shape - just not a Picofly. It seems like only Picofly based boards require these extra resistors - so theoretically switching it out for a HWFLY v5 would not face these same issues for slow eMMC?

an odd solution, but if the resistance is the issue then yes, it would work

 

[Takezo-San]

Hey guys. Hope y'all are well. Had a weird issue with an OLED from a friend. He's had it all picoflyed and runs normal but he left it on charge over night. It got really hot and now gets a fast + slow code which is a cmd problem. So i checked it out and ended up replacing the cmd resistor with a 4.7k resistor. Still get same code. Weird thing is, it gives a short when checking with dmm on both ends and the resistor near by also gives a short from one of its end. Could it be the resistor next to it thats affecting it? They do not give correct values when checking in ohms mode too. Its really weird. Checking the amp it gives 0.47a at 5v. Any help, thanks.

 

[Jdlat]

Hi all,

I have a problem with the rp2040. I bought it from amazon, when i program it, led is Green when flashing is complete. I read that Green is wrong, right is Red. If i bridge the rgb poonts, nothing changes, Led is Green again.

When i conect the rp 2040 (programmed) to the pc, led is blue and finish blinking Green 2 times.

Is my rp2040 faulty?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Takezo-San]

Hi all,

I have a problem with the rp2040. I bought it from amazon, when i program it, led is Green when flashing is complete. I read that Green is wrong, right is Red. If i bridge the rgb poonts, nothing changes, Led is Green again.

When i conect the rp 2040 (programmed) to the pc, led is blue and finish blinking Green 2 times.

Is my rp2040 faulty?

Thanks in advance.

Where did you read that green is wrong? Are you using the latest stable fw?

 

[cherup]

Hi all,

I have a problem with the rp2040. I bought it from amazon, when i program it, led is Green when flashing is complete. I read that Green is wrong, right is Red. If i bridge the rgb poonts, nothing changes, Led is Green again.

When i conect the rp 2040 (programmed) to the pc, led is blue and finish blinking Green 2 times.

Is my rp2040 faulty?

Thanks in advance.

No, that's all fine and normal

 

[Jdlat]

Where did you read that green is wrong? Are you using the latest stable fw?

I am a bit confused now, because I have read led have to be Red when programming is finished. However in the picofly guide doesnt say nothing.

If you say programmig its ok i will continue with the installation.

I am using the 2.75 firmware. I have tested with 2.73 too.

Many thanks for your help. Then can i continue?

 

[Takezo-San]

I am a bit confused now, because I have read led have to be Red when programming is finished. However in the picofly guide doesnt say nothing.

If you say programmig its ok i will continue with the installation.

I am using the 2.75 firmware. I have tested with 2.73 too.

Many thanks for your help. Then can i continue?

Yes its all fine. That's normal. But, if you're confused at this stage. Well, good luck with the rest.

 

[..::MaxWell::..]

You have problem with DAT0 adapter. Reseat it even the values are in specs.

Hmm so getting my installer to reseat DAT0 would fix? We had trouble understanding how to install it, I believe she added a little bit of solder and then slid it in to line up with the NAND. Heated it for 1 minute, let it cool, connected a wire for the C cable to run to the FPCB flex. It was snug and didn’t move. I believe it was the dat0 with 2 anchor points but my installer was confused what it’s purpose was and where exactly to add solder.

an odd solution, but if the resistance is the issue then yes, it would work

So if DAT0 is an issue as suggested above, I can avoid reseating DAT0 by either adding a resistor or completely swapping for a HWFLY v5 which doesn’t need this extra resistance?