Picofly AIO Thread

[Dariush]

This one was delaying only during several first boots, but after that, It started to boot fairly quickly enough.

 

[cgtchy0412]

This one was delaying only during several first boots, but after that, It started to boot fairly quickly enough.
View attachment 392004

Yes.. thats normal duration.

 

[Dee87]

This one was delaying only during several first boots, but after that, It started to boot fairly quickly enough.
View attachment 392004

Its normal that the first boot take a bit longer , after a few boots it gets faster

 

[Crung]

Anyone know a fix for mariko slow boot times? X_X sometimes it takes 1 minute to boot on some consoles

 

[jkyoho]

Anyone know a fix for mariko slow boot times? X_X sometimes it takes 1 minute to boot on some consoles

Did you try undervoltage hack?
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10090767

 

[Guyton100]

I am flashing firmware on picofly wondershare device.
Here is what I am doing-
1 Press boot menu and simultaneously plug usb c end into USB port. (No led response, PC detects portable device in explorer)
2 Drag firmware 2.74.uf file into the rp2040 device folder (no led response on the RP2040 board is observed)
3 Explorer window automatically closes with no change in led status on RP2040
4 On reinserting without pressing boot button, its blinking long blue followed by short green blinks continuously.

My question is,
1 How can I know that I have successfully flashed firmware?
2 Is there any way to check firmware on RP2040?

Guide mention that it should blink red for successful flash and even first page is not clear about the procedure.

 

[cgtchy0412]

I am flashing firmware on picofly wondershare device.
Here is what I am doing-
1 Press boot menu and simultaneously plug usb c end into USB port. (No led response, PC detects portable device in explorer)
2 Drag firmware 2.74.uf file into the rp2040 device folder (no led response on the RP2040 board is observed)
3 Explorer window automatically closes with no change in led status on RP2040
4 On reinserting without pressing boot button, its blinking long blue followed by short green blinks continuously.

My question is,
1 How can I know that I have successfully flashed firmware?
2 Is there any way to check firmware on RP2040?

Guide mention that it should blink red for successful flash and even first page is not clear about the procedure.

Please be patient, no need to double post.. I already reply on other thread.

 

[RedFawkes]

Yes. most of us are doing 100/100/47 by now since it's more likely to work well

Thanks for suggesting this.

I now replace my resistors as you suggested without bothering to see if 47/47/47 would work first.

Zero issues

I followed up on the suggestion from @QuiTim to use 0201 resistors. I used very fine solder paste applied with a sewing needle and hot air.
It's very satisfying to see them snap into place as the paste melts.

 

[JB260895]

Hi! Hope you can help me please.

I have a Nintendo switch OLED with a picofly chip installed, it was working fine but today y reset the console and now it's booting into OFW, no hetake or "No SD CARD" screen, just OFW auto

What I can do? I attached a video for the picofly LEDs indicators.

 

[cgtchy0412]

Hi! Hope you can help me please.

I have a Nintendo switch OLED with a picofly chip installed, it was working fine but today y reset the console and now it's booting into OFW, no hetake or "No SD CARD" screen, just OFW auto

What I can do? I attached a video for the picofly LEDs indicators.

Its a DAT0 not conected error.
First (Hope) : unsolder the D0 wire from pico, check the wire continuity with ground, if still there then try to resolder it again to pico and try.

Last Thing (most likely) :
Pull out the mobo. then resolder/refix the DAT0 adapter.

 

[JB260895]

Its a DAT0 not conected error.
First (Hope) : unsolder the D0 wire from pico, check the wire continuity with ground, if still there then try to resolder it again to pico and try.

Last Thing (most likely) :
Pull out the mobo. then resolder/refix the DAT0 adapter.

I see that the guide says for that led code = * = * that means emmc write error?, should I remove the DAT0 adapter?

Post automatically merged: Sep 8, 2023

I see that the guide says for that led code = * = * that means emmc write error?, should I remove the DAT0 adapter?

I solved that idk why but I have to move the D0 adapter (Nintendo switch OLED) and that's all :/ thanks for all m8's

 

[Crung]

Um . Did an oopsie? I have no ideea if by mistake i took out that resistor or it never was there. I searched for it everywhere and it seems like it went into 9th realm or something. Its nowhere to be found.
i know something is different on the rst point on v1/v2 on some of them. BUT i really dont remember if this one had the resistor .
This console is a V2. Excuse the quality and flux but i just cleared it a little just to not shine too much.

So i did a little bit of looking around it it looks like this resistor is for a test point. In theory i should be able to snatch this one, move it below the RST point, and use the CMD on the NAND point righhhhht????... I dont have a donor board and i dont have these resistors in my possesion.

Update on this part: Found out that this is a REALLY bad ideea.These are pullup resistors between 1v and cmd/rst. (Special thanks to @abal1000x for educating me)
Also from what he told me, you could also put a 4.9k ohm resistor. I have not tryed that yet and im scared? Im still leaning on putting a 4.7k . If however you find yourself in this situation, and have a spare picofly, you can steal a 4.9k(or 5k im not sure,my multimeter is not great. It also reads the 4.7k to 4.6k) from near usb C (i think they are the same size aka 0201)

I found the 4.7k resistor and i struggled to solder it back on. Ended up ripping the pads FROM underneath THE RESISTOR (not the board) so now i cant connect it properly from underneath the resistors. I think i will have to connect it from the sides with jumper wires........... so that s that.............. What i tought about doing from the first place was to use hot air and just let surface tension do its job but then i looked at that plastic emmc connector near it and i went "nope".
Ill do this tomorrow since now im on 24h of no sleep >.>

 

[HacksNDrones]

Alright, this has me stumped. I believe this is the no RST error, but all my connections are good.





It still boots to OFW. It is fully factory and never set up. I am not sure if that will affect it. Any ideas?

 

[Crung]

Alright, this has me stumped. I believe this is the no RST error, but all my connections are good.

View attachment 393365View attachment 393366View attachment 393367View attachment 393355View attachment 393356View attachment 393357View attachment 393358View attachment 393359View attachment 393360View attachment 393361View attachment 393362



It still boots to OFW. It is fully factory and never set up. I am not sure if that will affect it. Any ideas?

what resistors do you have on dat0 cmd and clk?

 

[HacksNDrones]

what resistors do you have on dat0 cmd and clk?

0805 470 resistors (47ohm +/-5%)

Could it be because it is straight out of the box without updating or setting up?

 

[Crung]

0805 470 resistors (47ohm +/-5%)

Could it be because it is straight out of the box without updating or setting up?

you need 2x470 (47 ohms ) resistors on DAT0 and CMD
also does that board fit with the usb c port still on?

 

[jkyoho]

Alright, this has me stumped. I believe this is the no RST error, but all my connections are good.

View attachment 393365View attachment 393366View attachment 393367View attachment 393355View attachment 393356View attachment 393357View attachment 393359View attachment 393360View attachment 393361View attachment 393362



It still boots to OFW. It is fully factory and never set up. I am not sure if that will affect it. Any ideas?

triple check where you take the 3.3v from

 

[Crung]

Got a wierd V2. So i lost the 4.7k resistor near RST. Replaced it with a 5k resistor as adviced (that s what i had on my hands).
Went ahead and completed the job. Then it worked.After a couple of boots, i get ** check RST. After some digging out, i think i found the problem. CLK wire (enammeled wire) got really hot while soldering and lost its insulation, and was shorting the RST on picofly? Went ahead, fixed the job, put solder mask on it to keep it nice.
Also did i2c low voltage on it since it had terrible boot times. Now its fast. (but i dont know if the low voltage technique fixed the boot times, or the fact that i fixed the CLK possibly shorting the RST)
All good , did a lot of power ons. Went ahead and proceeded with securing everything into solder mask. And when i tought that everything was nice and fixed, i got ** RST again X_X one time. But now i cant get it to do the error again. WHAT THE FFFFFFF
Edit. After partial reassemble, it get ** rst perma
Update 2: it turns out i did a pretty shitty job of resoldering the resistor. i did not have any low melt solder or paste. It was somehow not properly connected on 1 pad ,however making contact. I resoldered that point and it seemes it went away for god? We ll see.

 

[HacksNDrones]

triple check where you take the 3.3v from

That was my error as pointed out on by someone on discord. Now I have a mosfet error. I am going to try the back of the mobo version.

 

[Crung]

carefull on the mosfet mount , not to bridge source and drain

Post automatically merged: Sep 13, 2023

What are these resistors and capacitors on front and back for? Are they for the USB C port? If removed, it should not affect the performance of picofly right?