Picofly AIO Thread

[RedFawkes]

Hi.
Some time ago I had a problem with a V1 Switch that had the Orange Screen error after installing Picofly. If I launched atmosphere, it displayed the 2 Atmosphere screens (text and logo), and then Black Screen, and after some seconds, Orange Screen. If I booted System Firmware bypassing picofly and hekate pushing VOL+ & -, black screen and then Orange Screen.

I've made quite a few successful installations before and never had this problem. I also have 20+ years of microsoldering experience, so I can make clean installations and clean soldering points.
I thought the orange screen was a problem with the Wifi chip, even if I didn't damaged any traces or pads making the installation.
So I desoldered everything and tried to boot the switch. It was kind of weird, now with all the hours I've been in front of this console, I can't rememberif it booted or not. I think not, but it booted into Recovery Mode. Under recovery mode, I made a "Reset preserving saves & accounts" and it did it successfully. Then I entered recovery mode and did a system upgrade. It searched for all the wifi networks, I connected to mine, and it downloaded the firmware with no problems.
I did a couple of bootings / powering offs of the console and everything now looked fine and working properly.

So, discarding the wifi chip, I made a new picofly installation, triple checking every single solder point. So, I prepare the SD with all the updated files. Hekate loads up fine. Atmophere shows both screens, and then the Nintendo Switch & Logo screen appears, and it hangs there. No black screen, no Orange Screen. I stays there.
If I boot System Firmware bypassing Picofly, the same happens. Nintendo logo, then Nintendo Switch & Logo screen, and it stays there.

Under Hekate, I went to Nand Info and everything looks fine, BUT, I clicked on "Benchmark", and it starts benchmarking, but halfway it gives an error and forces me to press any key to exit.

So, is the eMMC the problem? Can it be fixed? I saw a program called EmmcHaccGen that I think it can rebuild and flash a new nand. Should I use that?

Thanks a lot for all the help you can provide me. I'm desperate with this console.

EDIT / UPDATE: I tried another MicroSD brand and now after the Nintendo Switch Logo, instead of hanging there, I get an Atmosphere error with Error Code: 2002-3539.
I looked for that error, and I read that 2002 is a Filesystem error. So maybe I'm right and the eMMC is corrupted? Should I try to flash it with any program?

What happens if you try to boot to OFW via Hekate reboot button?
See attached pic (borrowed from Sthetix's HATS pack page)

If OFW is boots correctly then I would imagine that your eMMC is ok.

 

[ikynx]

I'd like to report that I successfully modded an OLED switch using a waveshare RP2040 Tiny. These boards really are tiny !!

 

[ojobenito]

What happens if you try to boot to OFW via Hekate reboot button?
See attached pic (borrowed from Sthetix's HATS pack page)

If OFW is boots correctly then I would imagine that your eMMC is ok.

Nintendo Logo, then Black Screen, and it hangs there. No Orange Screen after waiting about 30 seconds or so.
What's weird is that with no chip installed, the console didn't boot (I think), but official recovery mode did boot, and I did a reset (keeping saves), and then an update, and then, the console booted normally after powering off and on 2 or 3 times.

 

[Eds05]

I had some issues with the RP2040 Tiny:
- emmc slow mode,
- No boot in OFW mode,
- No boot in SysCFW mode (atmosphere logo and black screen),

EmuMMC was always ok.

I fixed all of these issues by adding an extra 47ohms resistor on DAT0. I had to do that for some oleds and some v1/v2.

 

[twins333]

What microscope are you using!? This is the cleanest install I've seen here so far

It's an AmScope clone with a sony camera. That's my switch he modded

 

[O_xTanjax_O]

Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/infineon-technologies/IRFHS8342TRPBF/2523446

Aliexpress (5-pack): https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832647637806.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/IRFHS8342TRPBF?qs=Z8%2BeY1k3TILJK9l3AOTdfA==

M

It's an AmScope clone with a sony camera. That's my switch he modded

Sounds expensive

 

[Jehmyson]

I had some issues with the RP2040 Tiny:
- emmc slow mode,
- No boot in OFW mode,
- No boot in SysCFW mode (atmosphere logo and black screen),

EmuMMC was always ok.

I fixed all of these issues by adding an extra 47ohms resistor on DAT0. I had to do that for some oleds and some v1/v2.

Thanks for the tip bro. It fixed for me too!

 

[Dariush]

Hi everybody. I'm new to this site, and I am very happy to join this community.
Recently, I installed the picofly on two lite units. On the first one, I installed two MOSFETs on the APU points regularly. But on the second one, I managed to install one on the alternative points on the back of the board. It worked, and I was excited to come here to say thanks to developers and share photos of my installation. It would be great to know your opinion about my work.

 

[ojobenito]

I had some issues with the RP2040 Tiny:
- emmc slow mode,
- No boot in OFW mode,
- No boot in SysCFW mode (atmosphere logo and black screen),

EmuMMC was always ok.

I fixed all of these issues by adding an extra 47ohms resistor on DAT0. I had to do that for some oleds and some v1/v2.

Patched V1 Erista.
I had this same errores (not the emmc slow mode, but it didn't boot). I tried to add that resistor and now everything is working again. I've been days trying to diagnose what was happening, and it was just this easy fix.
Thanks a lot!

 

[QuiTim]

Hi everybody. I'm new to this site, and I am very happy to join this community.
Recently, I installed the picofly on two lite units. On the first one, I installed two MOSFETs on the APU points regularly. But on the second one, I managed to install one on the alternative points on the back of the board. It worked, and I was excited to come here to say thanks to developers and share photos of my installation. It would be great to know your opinion about my work.

Great work, I would suggest in the future you use thinner wires for 3v3, GND and especially for CPU (from mosfet)
38awg is more than enough for everything.

 

[Dariush]

Great work, I would suggest in the future you use thinner wires for 3v3, GND and especially for CPU (from mosfet)
38awg is more than enough for everything.

Thank you for the advice.
By the way, I need help to choose the right wire. Apart from the size of the wire, the type of coating is also important. There are some wires which when the coating is heated during soldering, instead of melting, act like a shiring coating and do not get damaged. I think those models of wires are very suitable for this work, but the problem is that I don't know the name of that particular model with that good coating.

 

[ojobenito]

Quick question.
Is there any alternate 3.3v/vcc point for the V1/V2 Switch?
I REALLY hate that point next to the ram modules on the diagram. There is a capacitor nearby that I accidentally bridged a couple of times and it takes ages to fix and get rid of the solder bridge.
So, any valid and better alternate poknt to 3.3v ?
Thanks!

 

[cgtchy0412]

Quick question.
Is there any alternate 3.3v/vcc point for the V1/V2 Switch?
I REALLY hate that point next to the ram modules on the diagram. There is a capacitor nearby that I accidentally bridged a couple of times and it takes ages to fix and get rid of the solder bridge.
So, any valid and better alternate poknt to 3.3v ?
Thanks!

Thats.

 

[karatefeet]

I had some issues with the RP2040 Tiny:
- emmc slow mode,
- No boot in OFW mode,
- No boot in SysCFW mode (atmosphere logo and black screen),

EmuMMC was always ok.

I fixed all of these issues by adding an extra 47ohms resistor on DAT0. I had to do that for some oleds and some v1/v2.

How did you add the extra resistor to the Tiny? Did you replace the existing 47 ohm with 100 ohm or just added on? Can you show a picture? Just looking for ideas on how others do it. Thanks

 

[QuiTim]

How did you add the extra resistor to the Tiny? Did you replace the existing 47 ohm with 100 ohm or just added on? Can you show a picture? Just looking for ideas on how others do it. Thanks

You could just replace them with 0201 or 0402 (like the ones in the picture)

 

[deeps]

How did you add the extra resistor to the Tiny? Did you replace the existing 47 ohm with 100 ohm or just added on? Can you show a picture? Just looking for ideas on how others do it. Thanks

I did a rather special install with an rp2040-tiny and added 0805 resistors same way as on an rp2040-zero. works but a bit tight

 

[karatefeet]

I did a rather special install with an rp2040-tiny and added 0805 resistors same way as on an rp2040-zero. works but a bit tight

Thanks for the pic! This is much easier than what I was going to do

You could just replace them with 0201 or 0402 (like the ones in the picture)

Thanks for providing the resistor sizes!

 

[Elektronimo]

Hey all - so I've done the mod on a Switch Lite -- and there is good news, and bad news.

The good news: the switch turns on and works as intended still.

The bad news: the RP2040-zero doesn't seem to turn on?? It's getting 3V's though (measured with my DMM), so it's not for a lack of energy. There's no indication from the RGB-led on the front of the board, and the Switch just goes straight to the regular OS, no error-messages or anything.

Where should I start to look for the problem? Could it be that my flash of firmware to the RP2040 didn't stick? Or I managed to ERASE it somehow??

Here's some pictures of my mod, as it is currently.

 

[jkyoho]

Hey all - so I've done the mod on a Switch Lite -- and there is good news, and bad news.

The good news: the switch turns on and works as intended still.

The bad news: the RP2040-zero doesn't seem to turn on?? It's getting 3V's though (measured with my DMM), so it's not for a lack of energy. There's no indication from the RGB-led on the front of the board, and the Switch just goes straight to the regular OS, no error-messages or anything.

Where should I start to look for the problem? Could it be that my flash of firmware to the RP2040 didn't stick? Or I managed to ERASE it somehow??

Here's some pictures of my mod, as it is currently.

not sure why you prefer led side facing down and red cable/3.3v line seems easy to contact to metal shield ground.

 

[Dariush]

Hey all - so I've done the mod on a Switch Lite -- and there is good news, and bad news.

The good news: the switch turns on and works as intended still.

The bad news: the RP2040-zero doesn't seem to turn on?? It's getting 3V's though (measured with my DMM), so it's not for a lack of energy. There's no indication from the RGB-led on the front of the board, and the Switch just goes straight to the regular OS, no error-messages or anything.

Where should I start to look for the problem? Could it be that my flash of firmware to the RP2040 didn't stick? Or I managed to ERASE it somehow??

Here's some pictures of my mod, as it is currently.

What is that wire jumper you made on the left side of the pico between USB and some point at the bottom of it?