Picofly AIO Thread

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Since they can't trigger without the pad I am fine with this for the first try. Here is the resister update. Stab count is at 5.
 

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is there anything that i gotta do extra to get the picofly to work on another console? you see i installed a picofly in one console but i wanna install that same one to another, do i gotta do something extra or?
 
Have a Mariko Switch V2 with SkHynix emmc. Installed the pico fly using two mosfests wired up and soldered to the points that aren't on the emmc. The 2 mosfet wired up worked fine on a Switch Lite.

Console looks like it's training blue then green but no picofly sd card screen, but boots to OFW.

Read the FAQ and it said put a 20-30k resistor on reset if the chip flashes green and resets,....I assume by reset they mean the OFW logo shows.

Add the 24K ohm resistor to the reset line and now it flashes blue then orange, then off.

Not sure what else to try. TIA
 
The first and the last were the hardest
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And this one specifically
 

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Working Models
- Erista Unpatched (Toshiba, Samsung)
- Erista Patched (SanDisk, Samsung)
- OLED (SK Hynix)
- Mariko (Samsung)
- Lite (SK Hynix)
- Lite (Samsung)
My switch is serial xkw so it's supposed to be mariko but I think the emmc is a Toshiba (Look at pic, I don't have an idea what emmc that is) it's not in the working models so is that an issue?..

Screenshot_20230421-180949_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited by MXRD4K1LL4,
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My switch is serial xkw so it's supposed to be mariko but I think it's a Toshiba (Look at pic, I don't have an idea what emmc that is) it's not in the working models so is that an issue?..

View attachment 366393
there are also mariko with toshiba
mariko/erista is the boerd name samsumg,skhynix,samsung ere the emmc brands
 
My switch is serial xkw so it's supposed to be mariko but I think it's a Toshiba (Look at pic, I don't have an idea what emmc that is) it's not in the working models so is that an issue?..

View attachment 366393
There probably are other models, that just what the author had and could test.

Anyways it should be fine now
 
Hi bro..
Attention please.
In 2th photo, i see a short circuit on the capacitor
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The first and the last were the hardest
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And this one specifically
Here.

This wire is

Personal opinion, take it as advice.

Furthermore, that wire appears really too thin and above all it seems to be without protection (lacquering) near the welding points.
It is too bare and covered with tin extensively.
 
Last edited by cicci084,
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Hi bro..
Attention please.
In 2th photo, i see a short circuit on the capacitor
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Here.

This wire is

Personal opinion, take it as advice.

Furthermore, that wire appears really too thin and above all it seems to be without protection (lacquering) near the welding points.
It is too bare and covered with tin extensively.

If it works then it's fine. The more you play with it the more you risk breaking it
 
If it works then it's fine. The more you play with it the more you risk breaking it
Sorry bro, The user doesn't claim it works.
It can never work if it doesn't fix this.
 

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Sorry bro, The user doesn't claim it works.
It can never work if it doesn't fix this.
Oh Snap! Nicely spotted cicci, that's some serious short if the other side of the capacitor is at GND.
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@A-Hacked-Soul you should only keep the last part of the wire tinned, here it looks like there's at least 1cm of the wire pre-tinned, and if that turns true, you're risking some FUBAR Switch situation...
 

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Last edited by Phantomas77,
is there anything that i gotta do extra to get the picofly to work on another console? you see i installed a picofly in one console but i wanna install that same one to another, do i gotta do something extra or?
You ask my same questions, only that I always advance you a few pages on the forum.
The next question is addressed directly to the undersigned! :rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:

read here (click)
 
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Oh Snap! Nicely spotted cicci, that's some serious short if the other side of the capacitor is at GND.
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@A-Hacked-Soul you should only keep the last part of the wire tinned, here it looks like there's at least 1cm of the wire pre-tinned, and if that turns true, you're risking some FUBAR Switch situation...
The exact name is Cicci0, excuse me...
:rofl: give me your name, please :rofl2:

Jokes aside, that's what I pointed out to him, serious defects and risk making the console unusable.
Perhaps your intervention is more appreciated (as you are an older user), but my intent was constructive and not a criticism of the work done.
 
Hope this will fit well between APU and ram under the shield and work also :D
Mosfet one the down left corner, already grounded. So only one wire to the cap is needed with the "MD" Pad.
Right side is to cut away.
View attachment 366563
Time for someone to me make a whole shield that is a picofly :D
 
Oh Snap! Nicely spotted cicci, that's some serious short if the other side of the capacitor is at GND.
Post automatically merged:

@A-Hacked-Soul you should only keep the last part of the wire tinned, here it looks like there's at least 1cm of the wire pre-tinned, and if that turns true, you're risking some FUBAR Switch situation...
This is all.
 

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