Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[QuiTim]

Ldo is out in every install . I'm cutting the shield becouse of the doble sidded tape i'm using is to thick You know cuba lol

Yeah I understand bro, sometimes it's difficult to get simple supplies like that and it's really frustrating.
But, if you don't cut the shield you could just use a larger piece of kapton to cover the pico and attach it to the shield in one shot and it will not move because there is no space anymore once the plastic cover is placed on top of it.
*Edit: see abal1000x comment below, he explains it very well.

 

[abal1000x]

Hey guys i want to impruve My work for future consoles . this uis my latest install. Any advice??

Just share an opinion, subjective taste, not objectively true.

I prefer not cutting the shield. Only bend the shield, to accomodate the picofly.

The reason:
1. More rugged, if someone shake the device so hard, the pico will be intact in there, since there is a shield locking it.
2. Better temp, since the shield will suck the heat up. For example if its put upon the car dashboard.
3. Better EM shield. Which i think is not so usable. Maybe someone put the switch around big coil which is almost an impossible scenario.

 

[chronoss]

sygpatch update but i have this error...

 

[abal1000x]

sygpatch update but i have this error...

Those pkg1 problem usually issue about resistor on CMD and/or DAT0, need to add to around 100ohms.

 

[AceCuba]

Can You post pictu

Just share an opinion, subjective taste, not objectively true.

I prefer not cutting the shield. Only bend the shield, to accomodate the picofly.

The reason:
1. More rugged, if someone shake the device so hard, the pico will be intact in there, since there is a shield locking it.
2. Better temp, since the shield will suck the heat up. For example if its put upon the car dashboard.
3. Better EM shield. Which i think is not so usable. Maybe someone put the switch around big coil which is almost an impossible scenario.

Can You post some pictures SO i can get the idea . Alwys opend to impruve . I don't like cutting the shield

Post automatically merged: Jul 4, 2023

I'm still craking My head abouth Toshiba. In Samsung i got perfect frist boot no issue 1seg glich . But Toshiba is SO ramdomsly issues

 

[chronoss]

Those pkg1 problem usually issue about resistor on CMD and/or DAT0, need to add to around 100ohms.

Never seen this problem, how to resolve this ?

 

[abal1000x]

Can You post pictu
Can You post some pictures SO i can get the idea . Alwys opend to impruve . I don't like cutting the shield

I don't have normal modded device right now. Only lite and v1, which is heavily experimented on. Maybe this week i am gonna install normal mod, on v2. I've bought used v2.

Post automatically merged: Jul 4, 2023

Never seen this problem, how to resolve this ?

If you use 47 ohms on CMD and Dat0, you need to add another 47ohms on CMD and/or Dat0.

I fixed my v2 with replace the 47ohms CMD resistor with 100ohms.

 

[Dee87]

From now on I guess I'm just gonna stick to rp2040-Tiny

 

[chronoss]

I don't have normal modded device right now. Only lite and v1, which is heavily experimented on. Maybe this week i am gonna install normal mod, on v2. I've bought used v2.

Post automatically merged: Jul 4, 2023

If you use 47 ohms on CMD and Dat0, you need to add another 47ohms on CMD and/or Dat0.

I fixed my v2 with replace the 47ohms CMD resistor with 100ohms.

Thanks a lot... i will test tomorrow....

 

[rehius]

The chip already has internal memory to store the firmware. Again, the chip has everything needed, from what I can tell. My only concern is an additional oscillator/quartz that might be present on the full board.

RP2040 chip has no internal memory, you need external SPI flash

 

[postnutclarity]

It's a miracle you can still boot to ofw. I think the longer you allow this person to work on it, the more likely you'll get a broken switch in the end of it.

Do you trust someone who lied about their experience to do the right thing and buy you a new switch when they brick yours?

Take it to a real modder/technician while you still can.

He was one of the few technicians I called that had micro soldering experience/equipments. If you happen to know someone in PA or within the states, would love to get a referral

 

[Dee87]

He was one of the few technicians I called that had micro soldering experience/equipments. If you happen to know someone in PA or within the states, would love to get a referral

Ask @LogicalMadness :-)
Not in PA though

 

[AceCuba]

Hey guys any good documentation on implemented the rgb pico link to the rgb on the Home bottom mod ??

 

[Endracion]

v1
View attachment 381311

Lite
View attachment 381312

v2 (From @raksmey1231)
View attachment 381313

oled (From @raksmey1231)
View attachment 381314

You're always so super helpful with your findings, so many thanks in general!

I wanted to just clarify how it was meant to be installed here, so I drew it up in paint again.

Looking at the pictures, it seems to be like this, but can you please confirm? Is the solder avoiding the corner pads or you're just soldering over them in a straight line?

 

[abal1000x]

You're always so super helpful with your findings, so many thanks in general!

I wanted to just clarify how it was meant to be installed here, so I drew it up in paint again.

Looking at the pictures, it seems to be like this, but can you please confirm? Is the solder avoiding the corner pads or you're just soldering over them in a straight line?

View attachment 381604

Yes its correct.

In my opinion its easier to line the GND first then the D.

 

[Endracion]

Yes its correct.

In my opinion its easier to line the GND first then the D.

Ok that makes a lot of sense, and to clarify, do you avoid the corner pads? Like my drawing arcs away to avoid them, but from the pictures it almost looks like it's a straight line through them.

 

[QuiTim]

Ok that makes a lot of sense, and to clarify, do you avoid the corner pads? Like my drawing arcs away to avoid them, but from the pictures it almost looks like it's a straight line through them.

No need to avoid them, solder straight through just be careful not to bridge the separate lines, so same as Abal did in his installations

 

[Dee87]

Just cause I love doing this

Post automatically merged: Jul 4, 2023

Looks good bro, this is as good as it gets. You could try to solder the 3rd resistor tilted a bit (like in photo) then you don't need kapton at this stage.
Also you could try to remove the voltage regulator under the pico and then you can install it without cutting the shield. I have not done this myself yet but I have seen that it fits nicely.
Also, since you want to make improvements you could try to change the solder or flux since ideally the joints should look shiny but this depends on solder, flux and temperature used.

I would try to set it a bit further to the right so u have a bit more space for the cables ;-) I know u don't need it but looks a bit cleaner

Post automatically merged: Jul 4, 2023

Hey guys any good documentation on implemented the rgb pico link to the rgb on the Home bottom mod ??

Not yet but I bet when its bulletproof and all the issue are sorted @lightninjay will be doing one ;-)

 

[RatchetRussian]

Ldo is out in every install . I'm cutting the shield becouse of the doble sidded tape i'm using is to thick You know cuba lol

I like to do the v2 like this. No double sided tape, just kapton tape

 

[tootallnate]

(I am cross-posting from the AIO thread to here since this thread seems to have more activity. This time with pics):

Hey all. Hoping I can get some help here.

First time Switch modchip installation here, but I managed to install the Hwfly RP2040 modchip onto my OLED this weekend. I was very excited to see the "No SD Card" screen and thought things were going to be fine from here on out. Hekate boots up fine.

However, any attempts at interacting with the emmc are failing, and if I attempt to Reboot -> OFW, I get the purple screen.

I've been trying to search the forums here and, if I'm understanding correctly, it seems like the most likely cause is a bad point A / CMD connection (or blown resistor). I am attaching pics of the modchip before installation as well as some shots of my motherboard and Dat0 connection.

My questions are:

• Is there anything obviously wrong here? I'd be willing to give any suggestions a try, but I'm also starting to feel a bit out of my depth here, thus:
• Would any modders on this forum be interested in fixing / completing this modchip installation? Ideally US-based, but I'd ship to anywhere if you are confident that you could get this resolved.

Cheers, and thanks in advance.