Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I found it interesting on why people doesnt do like this for v1/v2 .. its the safest way. Even with small enough wire you can get through the point hole and have a brezee in soldering.:D. Without hole i even not soldering the RST point on emmc and i choose the one in mainboard.
Its make me sad seeing someone ripped their mainboard pads.:sad:

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If you have nothing to loose, then just boot to ofw then update. After that creates new emmc again from hekate.
I guess you skipped the post where someone accidentally joined 3.3v and RST line together by using this way.
Risk always there, especially when you pay less patience.

FYI, I just broke one fpc connector for just check a resistor value for random person. No pain, no gain :(
 
Last edited by jkyoho,
Hello i tried installing hwfly for switch lite flashed hwfly 0.7.2 but when i turn on the switch, a blue light turns on, turns off and then goes to OFW. My solder is probably the culprit, i tried doing it with soldering paste. Could you please point out what is most likely the faulty solder point? Thank you
 

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Hello i tried installing hwfly for switch lite flashed hwfly 0.7.2 but when i turn on the switch, a blue light turns on, turns off and then goes to OFW. My solder is probably the culprit, i tried doing it with soldering paste. Could you please point out what is most likely the faulty solder point? Thank you
Can you show the cip and the other wires?
 
Hello i tried installing hwfly for switch lite flashed hwfly 0.7.2 but when i turn on the switch, a blue light turns on, turns off and then goes to OFW. My solder is probably the culprit, i tried doing it with soldering paste. Could you please point out what is most likely the faulty solder point? Thank you
Read sp1 sp2... I think it is not soldring to capacitors... From ground sp2!!!!
 

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Just an update on my OLED (CMD resistors blown). I did a little more digging today, removed the CPU cover to have a look at what I thought was a good flex cable install just to be sure, and it turns out the CPU cap solders were dry joints. The cable lifts easily from the CPU. So this explains why I was getting ==*. Also, I'm pretty sure there was a bad connection on DAT0 explaining the =* intermittent error thanks to the crappy OATO adaptor.

The big mystery is still why the CMD resistors died after a day (after install, boot to OFW with ==*, 3 days later black screen). Could the poor flex cable installation be the culprit here? Also, can anyone tell me a good way to test the flex cable after install using a multimeter? Thanks!
 

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Sorry if mistaken, but this kit only uses these flexes, photos atached not mine.

Ok, i will try to mess with capacitors tomorrow.

Sorry about that, didnt find somewhere else and saw some other hwfly questions on this thread :(
Sadly not familiar with this one, looks more like a HWfly to me
 
Hello. Newbie here. I did a pico installation on a lite switch (using the v2 cable). It work fine and would boot into hekate. The issues started a couple hours later when running a atmosphere fusee payload. It would freeze inside the cfw, then when launching atmosphere and started giving me a 2002-3537 error code. When I removed the sd, it would show the no sd screen, and would show black screen with flashing yellow lights with the sd installed. Finally it would do nothing but the blue then yellow flashing =** whether it had an sd inserted or not. Decided to desolder all wires and flex cable to check if it would launch into ofw but no luck. Just a black screen no signs of life. One of the two Cmd pads was ripped off during installation but it worked earlier like that ( to my knowledge, unless I had bridged it with solder without noticing). I left it charging in hopes of a miracle but no signs of life, until later when the home button led turned on. Still won’t turn on with hard reset or charger. Can the broken Cmd pad cause this issue or was it likely something else? Here are some pictures of the pads. ( sorry, I don’t own a microscope. These were taken with an iPhone)
 

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Last edited by johndoenut,
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Thanks a lot but i think my BOOT0 is damaged, i fix it with Sthetix tutorial but i always get black screen :(View attachment 378230
You suspect something then applied some fix then its still doesnt work, this is like saying the problem is not there in the first place. :rofl2:.
Once i had black screen.. from a working unit before .. 3 days after install. Then i remove all,, clean,, still bsod.. clean the second time ,, carefully ... still bsod.. Then i take a break .. came back .. clean for the third time ... it works .. boot to ofw.. then i redone the mod and renew all (mosfet, wires, pico, resistor).... and booommmm... nosdcard screen greets me ..
 
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Hello. Newbie here. I did a pico installation on a lite switch (using the v2 cable). It work fine and would boot into hekate. The issues started a couple hours later when running a atmosphere fusee payload. It would freeze inside the cfw, then when launching atmosphere and started giving me a 2002-3537 error code. When I removed the sd, it would show the no sd screen, and would show black screen with flashing yellow lights with the sd installed. Finally it would do nothing but the blue then yellow flashing =** whether it had an sd inserted or not. Decided to desolder all wires and flex cable to check if it would launch into ofw but no luck. Just a black screen no signs of life. One of the two Cmd pads was ripped off during installation but it worked earlier like that ( to my knowledge, unless I had bridged it with solder without noticing). I left it charging in hopes of a miracle but no signs of life, until later when the home button led turned on. Still won’t turn on with hard reset or charger. Can the broken Cmd pad cause this issue or was it likely something else? Here are some pictures of the pads. ( sorry, I don’t own a microscope. These were taken with an iPhone)
You got problem here.
cmd pad is ripped out.
Try to jumper that 2 point.
You need to revive the switch first, then decide whether you want to continue the mod.
1686898874045.png
 
You suspect something then applied some fix then its still doesnt work, this is like saying the problem is not there in the first place. :rofl2:.
Once i had black screen.. from a working unit before .. 3 days after install. Then i remove all,, clean,, still bsod.. clean the second time ,, carefully ... still bsod.. Then i take a break .. came back .. clean for the third time ... it works .. boot to ofw.. then i redone the mod and renew all (mosfet, wires, pico, resistor).... and booommmm... nosdcard screen greets me ..
I get this after the update... it's strange...
 
I get this after the update... it's strange...
It was the same, the user told that after they connect to wifi on cfw mode then suddenly bsod.
Also when it cameback to me the battery is drained to zero... so its not like bsod because cannot turn on but must bsod because pico have conflict with whatever updated and got in endless loop of bsod until battery is drained.. hahaha.

But i realiaze that for that specific unit i also created some mistakes when installing let say 90% percent confidence level, that can be the root of issue on why updates gives bsod.
No other unit have issue like this.

Just try to restore to stock first if youre able to.
 
It was the same, the user told that after they connect to wifi on cfw mode then suddenly bsod.
Also when it cameback to me the battery is drained to zero... so its not like bsod because cannot turn on but must bsod because pico have conflict with whatever updated and got in endless loop of bsod until battery is drained.. hahaha.

But i realiaze that for that specific unit i also created some mistakes when installing let say 90% percent confidence level, that can be the root of issue on why updates gives bsod.
No other unit have issue like this.

Just try to restore to stock first if youre able to.
I have no backup, i need to try on recovery mode or there is payload to restore the console ?

I see we can restore the console witch SystemWipe.te on TegraExplorer, is it safe ?
 
Last edited by chronoss,
abal100x, thanks for confirming that they need to be connected, I wasn’t sure if they connected underneath. Do you have any idea whether this broken trace would create the issues I’m experiencing? Or is it something unrelated?
 

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