Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Hey, I'm late to the party (differnt time zone and all) but reading through your conversations I saw that you mentioned that you are getting this error on every installation. That is statistically almost impossible considering all the installations people have done here until now.
And if the error goes away after SDA/SCL lines are soldered that points directly to mosfet installation.
You either have a really bad wire (as Abal suggested) or you got a bad batch of mosfets.
Are you using same supplies (from a single shipment) in all your mods (same wire, mosfets, picos)?
If this is the case you need to introduce some variable in this equation and see what changes.
- I would change the wire and solder S point to the shield (it's easier and makes better contact, also less possibility of damaging apu).
- Then I would use a different model of mosfet (bigger in both size and specifications)
- Another thing that is worth trying is flashing the Pico with 2.67fw just in case that your Pico does not want to play along with the latest version.
Thank you so much for your response. Here is my latest install. I haven't plugged it in yet. Wanted to get feedback first. I order my Pico's off of Amazon. That's the only place that I've ordered them from. The mosfets i ordered from digikey. I ordered 100. On this install, I grabbed a new mosfet, soldered S to the shield, and soldered to a single cap.
 
For practice to the first timer, after all wires soldered like these, make sure the switch can turn on until home and wake from sleep also working. After that you can continue installing pico board.
 

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YEAHHHHHHHHHHHH MY BROTHERS THE SWITCH LITE IS LIVE!:hrth::hrth:
- Not without going through a lot of trouble, with a purple screen, error, =*** eMMC init failure
I combined the instructions of the two of you and voila! Switch lite is alive!


Be proud of yourselves @QuiTim and @abal1000x , I adapted the solution a little, but the method is all yours. I used one of those crap dat0 cables and did extensive testing using the emmc diagram, and the https://balika011.hu/switch/lite diagrams, to make sure my dat0 and dat1 weren't shorted, (in the end they were, hence the purple screen, since the cmd track resistor was ok) I made a jumper using the rest of the broken track, to what was left of the old track and that's it, I got the SD screen.

It is worth mentioning that since I did not have the correct dat0 adapter, from Munia.io, I used one of those horrible ones, properly cuted, TEMPORARYLY, to obtain the measurement of dat0, and check if the solder of my point was having access to dat0, I knew that dat0 and dat1 could be shorted (purple screen), SO I REMOVED it once I fixed the broken dot, and here we are, working!

* I had to add an extra resistor to dat0 pico, as I had intermittent =*** eMMC init failure issues, which I haven't experienced again so far. In any case, I managed to make a full backup of the Nand, with all the prodkeys. benchmark emmc, seems normal.


I get back with pictures and more details to leave as a reference for sufferers like me in the future.

My personal message is: Don't give up, have faith in God and be humble in heart, he will bring blessed people to your aid. "I called upon the Lord in distress: the Lord answered me, and set me in a large place". psalms 118:5
I'm still dealing with these crappy OATO adaptors. How did you modify it to ensure it wasn't shorting dat0/1?
 
For practice to the first timer, after all wires soldered like these, make sure the switch can turn on until home and wake from sleep also working. After that you can continue installing pico board.
Only power on in this state if you have a flex cable (that includes MOSFET pulldown resistor) or if you have a pulldown resistor installed on a bare MOSFET install.
 
Only power on in this state if you have a flex cable (that includes MOSFET pulldown resistor) or if you have a pulldown resistor installed on a bare MOSFET install.
No pulldown on mosfet ever. I always put it on pico.
Even with this boot to ofw, no issue yet.
No voltage is applied on the gate , so it will stay closed.

When like this Its only considered like cable extension, you solder wires but not connected it to anything. Nothing should happen except normal unmoded switch boot.

It can be from AON mosfet that i didnt find any issue when doing like this, but i doubt it, all n channel should always do nothing without voltage applied on gate.

The moment i connect to pico.. then bam... nosdscreen..
 

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Would this work if I was soldering directly to the nand module instead of the board?
A few back someone found that cmd resistor is broken even when not touch by anything during instalation.
From my exp : broken clk, dat0, rst will result in black sod.
broken cmd will result in purple sod.
Once i had blue sod, thats when i made a scratch on pcb traces near apu n ram when tried to cut the shield bridge.
 
Try to check and replace resistor on cmd trace .. it maybe break internally.
Are you talking about the resistors that go in this area?
1686856856754.png

Post automatically merged:

A few back someone found that cmd resistor is broken even when not touch by anything during instalation.
From my exp : broken clk, dat0, rst will result in black sod.
broken cmd will result in purple sod.
Once i had blue sod, thats when i made a scratch on pcb traces near apu n ram when tried to cut the shield bridge.
Where did you have to scratch? All of my dead boards are blue screen of death, none are neither purple or black so far
 
YEAHHHHHHHHHHHH MY BROTHERS THE SWITCH LITE IS LIVE!:hrth::hrth:
- Not without going through a lot of trouble, with a purple screen, error, =*** eMMC init failure
I combined the instructions of the two of you and voila! Switch lite is alive!


Be proud of yourselves @QuiTim and @abal1000x , I adapted the solution a little, but the method is all yours. I used one of those crap dat0 cables and did extensive testing using the emmc diagram, and the https://balika011.hu/switch/lite diagrams, to make sure my dat0 and dat1 weren't shorted, (in the end they were, hence the purple screen, since the cmd track resistor was ok) I made a jumper using the rest of the broken track, to what was left of the old track and that's it, I got the SD screen.

It is worth mentioning that since I did not have the correct dat0 adapter, from Munia.io, I used one of those horrible ones, properly cuted, TEMPORARYLY, to obtain the measurement of dat0, and check if the solder of my point was having access to dat0, I knew that dat0 and dat1 could be shorted (purple screen), SO I REMOVED it once I fixed the broken dot, and here we are, working!

* I had to add an extra resistor to dat0 pico, as I had intermittent =*** eMMC init failure issues, which I haven't experienced again so far. In any case, I managed to make a full backup of the Nand, with all the prodkeys. benchmark emmc, seems normal.


I get back with pictures and more details to leave as a reference for sufferers like me in the future.

My personal message is: Don't give up, have faith in God and be humble in heart, he will bring blessed people to your aid. "I called upon the Lord in distress: the Lord answered me, and set me in a large place". psalms 118:5
I'm glad that you managed to fix it. It was easier said than done. Great work indeed.
I don't think you need to change the dat0 adapter since you already managed to resize this one to your needs, just fix it place with some glue and you're set.
You can always revisit this problem in the future and recreate the damaged trace using jumper wire by reballing the whole emmc :D
 
Last edited by QuiTim,
Are you talking about the resistors that go in this area? View attachment 378137
Post automatically merged:


Where did you have to scratch? All of my dead boards are blue screen of death, none are neither purple or black so far
Maybe im just missrembering the exact color either blue/purple.. but i had them both.
For scratch its on one of the traces that connect soc and ram.
 
Thank you so much for your response. Here is my latest install. I haven't plugged it in yet. Wanted to get feedback first. I order my Pico's off of Amazon. That's the only place that I've ordered them from. The mosfets i ordered from digikey. I ordered 100. On this install, I grabbed a new mosfet, soldered S to the shield, and soldered to a single cap.
I think you forgot to attach the pictures :)
 
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I think you forgot to attach the pictures :)
ooops. well, after a lot of trial and error and with massive help from the picofly aio thread, we were able to determine that the space between my two mosfets was too much. after bringing them closer together, it immediately booted to the correct screen without any errors ^_^
 
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ooops. well, after a lot of trial and error and with massive help from the picofly aio thread, we were able to determine that the space between my two mosfets was too much. after bringing them closer together, it immediately booted to the correct screen without any errors ^_^
it wasnt just between mosfets, its was all ur mosfet wiring from apu to mosfet and gnd Xd
 
ooops. well, after a lot of trial and error and with massive help from the picofly aio thread, we were able to determine that the space between my two mosfets was too much. after bringing them closer together, it immediately booted to the correct screen without any errors ^_^
Well, as I said, It had to be mosfet related (either that or some kind of witchcraft :D )
Glad you managed to get it up and running.
 

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