Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

  • Thread starter Thread starter mathew77
  • Start date Start date
  • Views Views 3,678,505
  • Replies Replies 17,052
  • Likes Likes 15
When turn off my switch through atmosphere, the console shows hekate boot screen three times before turn off.
This happens in all "firmwares" (CFW, emuMMC CFW or OFW)

My Switch is Oled model with Hekate v6.0.4, ATM pre-1.5.4 and Pycofly v2.74.

[EDITED] problem solved (in hekate_iniautohosoff was 1 instead of 2). Moderators, please, delete this post.
 
Last edited by Jcal,
so then what should i do? I am at a loss and i need to get this back to the customer.
Post automatically merged:


should i just try the single mosfet and go from there?
Post automatically merged:


so you would go from D to the top of one cap then to the bottom and back to S? and then G to 15?
Post automatically merged:


can you post a pic of your work? i think I've seen it but i cant seem to find the picture.
Hey, I'm late to the party (differnt time zone and all) but reading through your conversations I saw that you mentioned that you are getting this error on every installation. That is statistically almost impossible considering all the installations people have done here until now.
And if the error goes away after SDA/SCL lines are soldered that points directly to mosfet installation.
You either have a really bad wire (as Abal suggested) or you got a bad batch of mosfets.
Are you using same supplies (from a single shipment) in all your mods (same wire, mosfets, picos)?
If this is the case you need to introduce some variable in this equation and see what changes.
- I would change the wire and solder S point to the shield (it's easier and makes better contact, also less possibility of damaging apu).
- Then I would use a different model of mosfet (bigger in both size and specifications)
- Another thing that is worth trying is flashing the Pico with 2.67fw just in case that your Pico does not want to play along with the latest version.
 
Actually been thinking about it, why some pico board just cannot glitch or direct bsod.
But if we replace the pico then suddenly it can work.
Maybe this happen because now we set the pico clock to 300mhz.. i dont remember what clock before that (it seems 200mhz).
Also maybe with this high oc some board just cannot reach that clock then failed to function (or maybe theres a rollback on the code?? so its kinda no issue??).
Not yet tried to custom build the firmware myself.
Anyone have insight on this.?

1686820361569.png
 
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
@deeps @QuiTim Are there any other alternative point for gnd and 3.3v point on Lite? 2 point on V6 guide is a little bit far for me, Thank you.

gnd you can get basically anywhere, like one of the outer legs of the sd card reader. see pic for 3v3

edit: do not use this 3v3 point, it seems to cause problems.
 

Attachments

  • lite_alt_3v3.jpg
    lite_alt_3v3.jpg
    213.6 KB · Views: 67
Last edited by deeps,
I dont think its save using that 3.3v

says who? hwfly lite uses that point

edit: I found your discussion on the subject, but never saw any reports whether changing 3v3 point fixed the issue, or even if others with similar issue were using the same 3v3 point
Post automatically merged:

But from the point side its just the same 3.3v in another line.
it's not actually. the sd card reader 3v3 isn't directly connected to the other 3v3 points. it is sourced through this chip (see attachment). googling ay9127 gives nothing. not sure what it does
 

Attachments

  • a9127.jpg
    a9127.jpg
    52.1 KB · Views: 73
Last edited by deeps,
  • Love
Reactions: abal1000x
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10156012

From the guy that use that point, he said its solved. But its only one confirmation, it might be that his microsd power line troubled even before the picofly installation. I am just taking it note, if hwfly did really use that point.

thanks! the videos in that post certainly make it look like there isn't enough power available on that 3v3 rail to power both the sd card and the picofly. as i said it's not the same 3v3 source as the other points, see post above
 
I have a problem on a second Switch Oled :
- i connect battery and switch showes me blue then yellow lights == == == three times and when i power on it goes to OFW and rp2040 is not blinking.
What is wrong ???
 

Attachments

  • 20230615_133813_AdobeExpress.mp4
    44 MB
Actually been thinking about it, why some pico board just cannot glitch or direct bsod.
But if we replace the pico then suddenly it can work.
Maybe this happen because now we set the pico clock to 300mhz.. i dont remember what clock before that (it seems 200mhz).
Also maybe with this high oc some board just cannot reach that clock then failed to function (or maybe theres a rollback on the code?? so its kinda no issue??).
Not yet tried to custom build the firmware myself.
Anyone have insight on this.?

View attachment 378054
I think the 300mhz is when you connect sda and slc but i need to see the code
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dee87
Actually been thinking about it, why some pico board just cannot glitch or direct bsod.
But if we replace the pico then suddenly it can work.
Maybe this happen because now we set the pico clock to 300mhz.. i dont remember what clock before that (it seems 200mhz).
Also maybe with this high oc some board just cannot reach that clock then failed to function (or maybe theres a rollback on the code?? so its kinda no issue??).
Not yet tried to custom build the firmware myself.
Anyone have insight on this.?

View attachment 378054
It's worth a shot - but unlikely. IMHO I think the 3V3 line is more likely - perhaps low current on the line causing issues through the system. Has anyone got reference voltage & current values?
 
hello, need help.!!

Switch lite boots to no sd screen but when I insert SD card formatted to fat32 with HATS Pack, PicoFly loops on glitching. White light and then again loops.
This continues until I remove the SD card and it instantly goes to No Sd Screen.
This happened to 2 of my Switch lite but it works on Oled/v2.
If I use HWfly chip on the same existing connection then it works fine.
I have cleaned the Flux on every point properly.
 
I have a problem on a second Switch Oled :
- i connect battery and switch showes me blue then yellow lights == == == three times and when i power on it goes to OFW and rp2040 is not blinking.
What is wrong ???
The error code you are getting is not === but ==. It shows there's no signal from CLK.
 
I have a problem on a second Switch Oled :
- i connect battery and switch showes me blue then yellow lights == == == three times and when i power on it goes to OFW and rp2040 is not blinking.
What is wrong ???
wrong 3.3v location.
1686829237160.png
 
Last edited by jkyoho,

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum