Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Uberfish]

This is the best "Adapter" available
View attachment 377366

Possibly, but many of us don't have a hot air station to do the reflow work, or a major use for a hot air station after doing the mod. So while it does give the most reliable connection, it may not be the best option. Not to mention the possible issues of the balls cracking after 3 months due to not heating/cooling in correct stages. Out of interest, has anyone who did a reflow had issues with the BGA after 3+ months of use?

 

[BlueBeans]

Well that's not the point u gotta find the issue, what SD card is it that's installed maybe that has issue.... There are a lot of possibilities. But since u opened it and installed a chip u gotta get it working that's the only thing that sucks

It’s already been modded software wise. Will it even boot to ofw anymore?

 

[QuiTim]

Thought I'd share here as many of you probably don't follow the mcfly thread... I've just finished testing my first batch of custom picofly boards (I'm calling it fly2040) and they work perfectly. The design is in KiCad and completely open-source.
Some benefits are:

• Smaller than the tiny - it's 15.56mm x 18.97mm
• Does not have a 5V -> 3.3V regulator on board.
• Does not have a USB connector to remove.
• Does have an on board boot button that's so small it doesn't need to be removed.
• Has a solder jumper for an optional pull down resistor on the CPU pad (10K).
• Has 3x 47 Ohm resistors for CLK, CMD, D0
• Designed to be programmed with 1.27mm pogo pins clip.
• Easily ordered from JLCPCB with assembly (JLC parts).

https://github.com/floxcap/fly2040/tree/main/pcb/fly2040_min

fly2040 (front/back) next to a zero:

View attachment 377317

Great work. I'm gonna go ahead a try to figure out how to order a couple of these from JLCPCb.
Thank you for sharing this

 

[RiotRetroGaming]

Got to love a sexy OLED or two

 

[BlueBeans]

Great work. I'm gonna go ahead a try to figure out how to order a couple of these from JLCPCb.
Thank you for sharing this

I was just going to ask that so when you figure out how to order can you let the rest of us know?

 

[QuiTim]

Possibly, but many of us don't have a hot air station to do the reflow work, or a major use for a hot air station after doing the mod. So while it does give the most reliable connection, it may not be the best option. Not to mention the possible issues of the balls cracking after 3 months due to not heating/cooling in correct stages. Out of interest, has anyone who did a reflow had issues with the BGA after 3+ months of use?

Normally, this should never happen (balls cracking).
This issue was a "thing" when Sthetix used to combine lead solder with unleaded (used originaly on bga) which he does not do anymore.
If you do a proper reball with lead based solder this issue is practicaly nonexistent.

 

[Dee87]

Normally, this should never happen (balls cracking).
This issue was a "thing" when Sthetix used to combine lead solder with unleaded (used originaly on bga) which he does not do anymore.
If you do a proper reball with lead based solder this issue is practicaly nonexistent.

Thanks for answering the question for me

 

[QuiTim]

I was just going to ask that so when you figure out how to order can you let the rest of us know?

To be honest it's pretty straight forward, it's just that I never actually went through with it and ordered something, but you just need to register, upload the files floxcap provided (the website points you to the filenames and everything) and see if you like the end result. It also gives errors/warnings if something is not OK.
We just need to be careful and read everything thoroughly on the website so we don't miss something.
I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Dee87]

Possibly, but many of us don't have a hot air station to do the reflow work, or a major use for a hot air station after doing the mod. So while it does give the most reliable connection, it may not be the best option. Not to mention the possible issues of the balls cracking after 3 months due to not heating/cooling in correct stages. Out of interest, has anyone who did a reflow had issues with the BGA after 3+ months of use?

If u don't mix solder there is no cracking , otherwise all bga would have to be repaired after 3 Months thinks about it

U can buy a hot air station for 50 USD that does the job plus 15 for stencil and paste. If u do this kinda modding it should be worth the money

Post automatically merged: Jun 11, 2023

It’s already been modded software wise. Will it even boot to ofw anymore?

Sure it boots ofw why not

 

[blackpac]

Please delete, was trying to quote, did work...

 

[tiger111]

hi guys im installing picofly in v1 patched switch. im having issues with soldering the soldering dosent stick to the motherboard of switch especially those rst dat etc points..i soldered v1 cable 34 points to connect to cpu it worked fine .i tried on dead mobile board and soldering is sticking normal no issue .only switch motherboard is causing this issue....im also using flux ..can you guys suggest what might be causing this? ??any suggession will be highly appretiated regards

 

[LogicalMadness]

@QuiTim that new stencil\mag-holder\jig works like a dream! Reball all the emmcs! Love it!

Speaking of love for new tools...

For anyone here that uses UV curing resin, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a laser to cure, dries in under 10 seconds. Thanks to @lightninjay for the recommendation

Links for the two I purchased (if you get the stronger one, ALSO BUY UV GOGGLES!):

5mw, Battery (what Jay uses)-
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0fHses

*20mw, 5v plug-in (I don't like batteries, the other was just a 'backup')-
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m04Hly0

 

[jkyoho]

@QuiTim that new stencil\mag-holder\jig works like a dream! Reball all the emmcs! Love it!

Speaking of love for new tools...

For anyone here that uses UV curing resin, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a laser to cure, dries in under 10 seconds. Thanks to @lightninjay for the recommendation

Links for the two I purchased (if you get the stronger one, ALSO BUY UV GOGGLES!):

5mw, Battery (what Jay uses)-
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0fHses

*20mw, 5v plug-in (I don't like batteries, the other was just a 'backup')-
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m04Hly0

any uv glue would you recommend?

 

[d.b]

This is the best "Adapter" available
View attachment 377366

@Dee87 what kind of wire do you use for permanent dat0 install? i mean the one underneath the mmc

 

[lightninjay]

any uv glue would you recommend?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092LMN634

 

[LogicalMadness]

any uv glue would you recommend?

I don't. I bought a bunch of green stuff awhile ago and can't wait to use it up and buy some clear stuff next.

I see @lightninjay already recommend some and I'm sure @Dee87 has some input XD

 

[nico77]

i need answer

when using dbi installer
in MTP Responder mode
when connect to PC
transfer file, copy, etc

is it also charging your the switch ???

thx

 

[Dee87]

@Dee87 what kind of wire do you use for permanent dat0 install? i mean the one underneath the mmc

That's a solder repair pad no wire

 

[Danook28]

He use dat0 adapter same that i was add pic before. And it is not bridge how that work with him perfect job.

 

[lightninjay]

He use dat0 adapter same that i was add pic before. And it is not bridge how that work with him perfect job.

It appears as though they are intentionally shifting the adapter to the side which includes a pin that is hooked to nothing. This was discussed as a potential option earlier in the thread, but is still a messy and unreliable option.

Either get a better adapter, or set a permanent DAT0, as @Dee87 frequently suggests. But do NOT install shitty OATO adapters and then ask here why things aren't working, when you likely shorted the DAT0 on your/your customer's OLED and now have a headache of a recovery process ahead of you.