I connectedThat explains it
I'm with jkyoho on this, most likely it's wrong G point
to it directly to the resistor on the works now
I connectedThat explains it
I'm with jkyoho on this, most likely it's wrong G point
The probability that the rp2040 is the main cause of the problem is minimal.I redid everything and it’s still the same. Do you think a new rp2040 zero would make a difference?
That’s a beautiful explanation but you’re speaking a foreign language to me lol. Can you give direction in more layman’s terms?The probability that the rp2040 is the main cause of the problem is minimal.
So heres the flow to take a picture about it:
1. First time rp2040 run, it check voltage on Dat0, CLK, RST.
So these three point is connected (but it doesn't remove the probability of these line short circuit with others).
2. Then it wait until boot done. In a while, the rp2040 monitor the emmc, it should initialized, detected from CMD line. So CMD line and CLK are okay. The bytes read, and the initialization is okay.
3. Then monitor the next sequence which is CMD1 request then CMD1 response. Both are detected, confirmed again that the CLK and CMD are okay.
4. The boot is okay, then goes to the next step, test read operation from the emmc. Its okay, then the Dat0 seems okay. Then write the BCT and payload to the emmc (white led), it confirmed again Dat0, CLK, CMD are okay.
5. The next stage is glitching. Do the glitch via pin no 15 (G mosfet), then check the response via CMD line. If the 'normal response' read then repeat the glitch with a different parameter. Means the glitch failed. If the 'glitched response' read, then the glitch worked, save the parameter and the 'nosd' shows.
Your problem lay on the step number 5. By my experience the Dat0 interferences make the glitch reading via CMD line noised.
The repeating glitch means, the 'edge' of the glitch has been founded, then goes to find the exact parameter, but couldn't find the precise parameter.
If the Dat0 is okay then to other suspect is the flex you used. Try to check the connection between the pin no 15 and the pin3-4 on the flex. And check also the cap solder on the flex, might be the joint is not perfectly connected.
Wait for something likd 3 minutes it will stopped with glitched timeout error.That’s a beautiful explanation but you’re speaking a foreign language to me lol. Can you give direction in more layman’s terms?
It pulses non stop until I unplug the battery. There are no bridges. Everything is clean. New wires. New cable. New rp2040 zero.
Thank you for this idea! Can't believe I didn't think of this but hammering down the wire not only made it fit perfectly, but also was much easier to position because it can't roll around.flatten the wire with a hammer against somethings like a vice, then cut it to make sure the wire isn't too wide
Hey hey, what you just did there? any picture of the wire tip shape?Thank you for this idea! Can't believe I didn't think of this but hammering down the wire not only made it fit perfectly, but also was much easier to position because it can't roll around.
Testing it on my v1 unpatched switch went perfectly. Now to try on my OLED
It is just a flat, square end. Nothing special. It is overlapping about 50% of the dat0 pad.Hey hey, what you just did there? any picture of the wire tip shape?
i wonder if people are cleaning their flux off properly?The probability that the rp2040 is the main cause of the problem is minimal.
So heres the flow to take a picture about it:
1. First time rp2040 run, it check voltage on Dat0, CLK, RST.
So these three point is connected (but it doesn't remove the probability of these line short circuit with others).
2. Then it wait until boot done. In a while, the rp2040 monitor the emmc, it should initialized, detected from CMD line. So CMD line and CLK are okay. The bytes read, and the initialization is okay.
3. Then monitor the next sequence which is CMD1 request then CMD1 response. Both are detected, confirmed again that the CLK and CMD are okay.
4. The boot is okay, then goes to the next step, test read operation from the emmc. Its okay, then the Dat0 seems okay. Then write the BCT and payload to the emmc (white led), it confirmed again Dat0, CLK, CMD are okay.
5. The next stage is glitching. Do the glitch via pin no 15 (G mosfet), then check the response via CMD line. If the 'normal response' read then repeat the glitch with a different parameter. Means the glitch failed. If the 'glitched response' read, then the glitch worked, save the parameter and the 'nosd' shows.
Your problem lay on the step number 5. By my experience the Dat0 interferences make the glitch reading via CMD line noised.
The repeating glitch means, the 'edge' of the glitch has been founded, then goes to find the exact parameter, but couldn't find the precise parameter.
If the Dat0 is okay then to other suspect is the flex you used. Try to check the connection between the pin no 15 and the pin3-4 on the flex. And check also the cap solder on the flex, might be the joint is not perfectly connected.
Hi there, sorry for my lately answer i was sleeping so deep...I do not speak English so I do not know if you can understand me.
That job of yours is not the job of a technician.
Even if your soldering is excellent, you have a problem when you use a dat0 adapter.
So making sure u have a proper solder connection is a waste of time and money ?Mate i reball and change charging ics, i have fixed broken traces and reballed many iphone 7 audio ics and much more, which is much harder that this big emmc but why should i reball if i dont have to. Its a waste of time and money especially when i dont have returns after many months. I am starting to think that you just love reballing ics
Only if i get returns, only then i will start reballing!
I do not speak English so I do not know if you can understand me.
That job of yours is not the job of a technician.
Even if your soldering is excellent, you have a problem when you use a dat0 adapter.
Of course, it is the freedom of the "individual".
If someone claims to be a "technician", he should not do it in a way that causes problems ...
u cannot compare a flex cable that is properly soldered to the connections it needs with a Dat0 adapter that is pressed against a solder point.the adapter is just a tool. its people freedom of choice wether use it or not
same with flex
yeah ive also heard that befor but since the issue was befor pico install there is a issue with his sdcard slotI was under the impression that soldering to the ground of the SD card tray was a mistake, as it can induce interference into the SD reads and writes. That seems to have been an issue with someone in the past, and once they changed that ground to somewhere else away from the tray, the issues went away...
But I could just be high on somethin right now.
take a needle and see if u can move some of those pins , also these solder joints do not look very good.I checked all the points are well welded...
Some times glitch takes time to successful. On my switch it some takes 4s and sometimes 1 minute. But it is with a single mosfet install.Nothing is working. I’ve replaced the ribbon cable, all the wiring, and even the rp2040 zero. It pulses a blue light. When I unplug everything it boots up as normal. Anyone have any experience with this?
Does your switch shows the nintendo logo ? is there a black screen after nintendo logo? if it is then you need to dump the keys and rebiuld it, but follow the Sthetix guide for level 1 bricking. If level 1 don't work to higher level, but in a squence.Well, after shorting rst and 3v3 the board looks fine and dont boot, I check clock and data with an oscilloscope and I think the emmc is corrupt because have activity like retrosix detailled and stuck and first stage of boot.
So please, If I install pikofly again but fine I can boot with bad emmc? Maybe can dump keys and rebuild the emmc? Thank you
Another accessory you might need for microscope, is barlow lenses.I just did my first install with a scope. It should have been bought earlier. Very cool.
Ok I will wait for it to timeout. If it does end up working is it going to be like that every time I go to turn it on?Wait for something likd 3 minutes it will stopped with glitched timeout error.
In a simple word. Check your flex cable.
I don't want to insist, also because since I don't have the console here I can't be sure that everything is fine.Sure its an instalation issue because it works before, can't remotely be done.
Most likely the Mosfet is dead, or any of wires has detached or cold join decided to quit. Need to hands on to fix.
Happened twice on me, and to prevent this kind of issue in future now i always fix the solder point with a hot glue and i move to mosfets with higher spec.
For a reset point/switch i think i have an idea if somehow we can put a mini push switch which accesible from the speaker grill. We can do it with magnet switch also (but until confirmed that firmware reset can revive the glitch).
Also move/rewiring the led to be visible at least the glow when you open the game card slot (this may be ill do soon).