Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Any mistake in steps that we could learn from you? Will do an oled adventure soon.
Everything went smoothly, the only thing I remember was taking more than usual with CLK. This suspicion was later backed up by @abal1000x since the error indicates that it didn't even reach the glitching stage.

I always treat CLK nicely, but my new soldering iron was a bit too much for it maybe.

The weird thing is that I got a diode reading as usual, 0.7v, that's what made me turn on the console.

If I still had the console, I would have wire-jumped CLK to the nand directly, for diagnostic purposes only.

Sorry, can't really say for sure.
 
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Everything went smoothly, the only thing I remember was taking more than usual with CLK. This suspicion was later backed up by @abal1000x since the error indicates that it didn't even reach the glitching stage.

I always treat CLK nicely, but my new soldering iron was a bit too much for it maybe.

The weird thing is that I got a diode reading as usual, 0.7v, that's what made me turn on the console.

If I still had the console, I would have wire-jumped CLK to the nand directly, for diagnostic purposes only.

Sorry, can't really say for sure.
I tried to back left capacitor on my cpu taken from pico, but it doesn't turn on after that. I also had cut clk, but it is soldered back now and resistance is 47ohm. I also tried to solder it from emmc to trace near cpu and no results. It doesn't even boot to ofw. Maybe I killed my switch too:(
 
View attachment 376502
i mean specially this cable her and make sure u dont squeeze it under the heatsink so it doesnt break

if it was already before the install maybe there is a issue with the soldering points (cracked) on the sdcard pins or with the sdcard holder itself
I was under the impression that soldering to the ground of the SD card tray was a mistake, as it can induce interference into the SD reads and writes. That seems to have been an issue with someone in the past, and once they changed that ground to somewhere else away from the tray, the issues went away...

But I could just be high on somethin right now. :yay:
 
I was under the impression that soldering to the ground of the SD card tray was a mistake, as it can induce interference into the SD reads and writes. That seems to have been an issue with someone in the past, and once they changed that ground to somewhere else away from the tray, the issues went away...

But I could just be high on somethin right now. :yay:
Must be high then, Extra ground carry no signal IMO
 
Was
He said its problematic even before the picofly installation, and it disconect totally when the case closed. I suspect its mechanical problem, something like corrotion make the trace mechanically unstable, or the tin cracking.
Was it the one stated all SD slot pins solder "well" from the picture?
 
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I checked all the points are well welded...
Maybe try refluxing and flowing the SD reader pins? They might also be occasionally bridging (especially when pressure is applied) I included a pinout, I guess for no real reason, other than to see what could be messed up from bridging the wrong things.
MicroSDPinout.png
 
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Maybe try refluxing and flowing the SD reader pins? They might also be occasionally bridging (especially when pressure is applied) I included a pinout, I guess for no real reason, other than to see what could be messed up from bridging the wrong things.
View attachment 376570
Did I just see the DATA1 is touching the ground sheild?
1686195987776.png


FYI, pin3 from left is ground.


1686195911495.png
 
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Hi.
I have a v2 switch and i installed picofly with flex cable. I used the 3.3v point on the emmc. The console boots in to ofw, i dont get the no sd card logo. I am on the latest 2.74 fw. And the error light is =*== eMMC test failure - read failed. This means do i have to try to use 100ohm resistors instead of 47? Thank you
 
Need some help. I’m having a hell of a time with this switch lite. I’ve gotten it to boot to the correct screen twice and now it’s just constantly flashing blue. I’m not sure what to do.
 

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  • IMG_6501.MOV
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Before revise the resistor, try to check the Dat0 line maybe its dirty or short circuit with others.

Before the read test, pico monitor the voltage of Dat0, CMD and RST, so Dat0 is connected. Then monitor the initialization on CMD line, cmd1 request and cmd1 response. Then do the read test on Dat0 then write to Dat0. In your process it failed on read test. So logically speaking, the Dat0 line problematic. It does connected but the connection is unstable (noise).


But if everything okay on Dat0, then change the resistor to around 100ohms.
Post automatically merged:


Check your Dat0 line, if necessary resoldered it.
Everything was soldered correctly. Throwing in a new cable now and redoing everything to be sure. Turned on the switch and it works fine
 
srry but installing with dat0 adapter is not called skill.

:-)
Mate i reball and change charging ics, i have fixed broken traces and reballed many iphone 7 audio ics and much more, which is much harder that this big emmc but why should i reball if i dont have to. Its a waste of time and money especially when i dont have returns after many months. I am starting to think that you just love reballing ics :rofl:
Only if i get returns, only then i will start reballing!
 
Last edited by snaker,
Nothing is working. I’ve replaced the ribbon cable, all the wiring, and even the rp2040 zero. It pulses a blue light. When I unplug everything it boots up as normal. Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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    CBECAB91-B5D0-43D4-BE53-6E38362A3B5F.jpeg
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