Thanks. Looks to be similar to mine. Though the wires I used were all 30awg. Maybe I should try 40awg. Ofcourse, not on the mosfets but data lines. @lightninjay did say mixed results with different sized wires in his guide could give varied results.Well I'm not a text book example I also made a lot of mistake in my "career" as a technician we always make mistakes that how we learn to avoid them even the best technicians make mistakes that normal we are just humans.
U just gotta learn from ur mistakes and try to keep avoiding them that's all I can say about that point.
Prying open the metal shield I use a needle to open the latches
Yeah cheapest mini cutters fur the sides of the shield
Soldering iron just a cheap Chinese station 909d+ there are different makers its with soldering iron and hotair gun.
Flux I use Kimbo RMA 218 I think
Sure I striped traces , knocked off components and and and.
No kapton tape to protect anything just learn to control ur soldering iron/hot air/tweezers/knives.
All I can say is get defective boards and train and learn how to accomplice ur work everyone has a different way to get there work done.
No static map , if u live in a place with low humidity and have a carpet I would recommend it.
Sure lots of different PCB holders from aliexpress
For soldering point on boards like switches I always use lowmelt solder and thin wires so if I accidently to rip on a wire it breaks before the pads.
On switch boards I use 0.1mm enameled wires.
But that's just my preference
Well anything else u live and learn with the jobs u do don't go to confident on ur work and always assume anything can happen just be carefull that's all I can say
@rehius
if i remove that 2 caps
and regulator
View attachment 375516
can it still run normal??? i mean to glitch.
since i dont need to flashing firmware rp2040 anymore
is there side effect if i remove those 3 ?
okIt has no sideeffects, just remove it. You only need it for powering through USB, since its desoldert, no need to be on the board.
Which messages?These messages say that they are unusable and will cause boot0 problems
Check your installation. I have installed in more than 20 Lites without any problem.Hmmmm your not alone with the exact same problem as me and like 4-5 switch lites. Something is being reproduced here but I have no idea what it could be! Weird thing is, I've not seen this problem with HWFLY lite installs but lots of pico installs with this problem. What is going on? Is the Pico drawing to much power from the lite that is more power starved than the other switch versions or something!?
Surely xecuter would have done itOk guys. Who remembers old school RGH on xbox 360 to get the cpu keys. Do you remember the CPU Postfix Adapter? I think that this is what we need! Look at my pics.If someone could make an adapter like this it would be absolutely stable and work 100% fine.The cpu pin that you can see at the photo has a spring and the needle pin is pushed with tension from the spring. I used it a lot at good old days of xbox 360 era to get the cpu keys and flash the dvd drives with custom firmwares. This is the real deal.
But now you create another problem. What if A4 creates sc with A5? You need to create these test pads for every pin on that side so it can be tested properly if it sc.View attachment 375412
This is what in my mind, which i thought its more secured.
Also the left and right part might be extended like usual to secured it even more.
I probably should have said "improper tools and supplies". Bad soldering irons with tips that are too big, wire that is too thick, no flux, etc.Depends on what u mean with poor tools , the most expensive tool that I have is my HDMI microscope 200€ my solder iron and hotair station cost 100€.
Its more lack of not being careful enough
reminds me of the postfix adaptors for 360 slims
Color code is deprecated in the current firmware. Now using pulse code.Hi everyone, I just bought my second RP2040 zero, the first one I bought I thought it was faulty because no matter what I did the LED kept flashing the green light, of course I bridged the RGB pins but the result was the same. So I just tried to flash the other one and the exact same thing is happening, green light flashed, then I bridged the RGB pins, but the LED keeps flashing green. I cheked for continuity with my multimeter and everything is fine, its not bridging anywhere else. I'm using flash_nuke between flashes also. Can anyone help me please?
IF you are using firmware 2.7 or over then read @lightninjay latest (v6.1) guide about the new colour scheme convention and setting up the Pico. Just read!Hi everyone, I just bought my second RP2040 zero, the first one I bought I thought it was faulty because no matter what I did the LED kept flashing the green light, of course I bridged the RGB pins but the result was the same. So I just tried to flash the other one and the exact same thing is happening, green light flashed, then I bridged the RGB pins, but the LED keeps flashing green. I cheked for continuity with my multimeter and everything is fine, its not bridging anywhere else. I'm using flash_nuke between flashes also. Can anyone help me please?
Not bad. Mosfet double with pull down resistor.How is this looking? First time soldering at that scale.
I don't have a microscope or anything, just my phone.
Still waiting for my mosfets, they'll arrive today.
What is community opinion on one vs two mosfets?
What do you mean by pull down resistor? The ones attached to the RP2040 in the guide?Not bad. Mosfet double with pull down resistor.
Without microscope, i strongly recommend using flex then manually soldering the mosfet.How is this looking? First time soldering at that scale.
I don't have a microscope or anything, just my phone.
Still waiting for my mosfets, they'll arrive today.
What is community opinion on one vs two mosfets?