Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Nice. Thank you. Out of curiosity, What's your preferred MOSFET installation method? Caps or no caps?
Cosidering that I am by no means an expert on this field, removing a cap (or having a missing component of any kind) would create a feeling of unease for me.
So my decision to leave the caps alone was initially based solely on this.
I also find it easier to solder to cap bacause the wire is pressed nicely on the side and I can know for sure that I did not put too much heat on the APU because otherwise the cap would be the first casualty :D
 
I fully believe it's the flex cable
Yeah I also suspect it's a problem with the flex cable installation. Tomorrow I'm going to solder a thicker wire from pins 3 AND 4 to the CPU point on the RP2040 and see if that makes a difference and if not I will take off the CPU shield and clean and reflow the solder joints on SP1 and SP2. Thanks for your response
 
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Yeah I also suspect it's a problem with the flex cable installation. Tomorrow I'm going to solder a thicker wire from pins 3 AND 4 to the CPU point on the RP2040 and see if that makes a difference and if not I will take off the CPU shield and clean and reflow the solder joints on SP1 and SP2. Thanks for your response

I'm willing to bet that taking the flex out completely and just installing MOSFETs will fix it. Even if the MOSFETs come from the flex, from personal experience.
 
Hi Guys any Help ?

I get this error with switch lite: eMMC write failure - write failed

I think my soldering is okay ( i use hdmi 4k microscope ), i checked evrything with multimeter in DIod mode. Also i soldered SDA and SCL points. Do you now what can i do more ?

Thanks in advance.
 
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I'm willing to bet that taking the flex out completely and just installing MOSFETs will fix it. Even if the MOSFETs come from the flex, from personal experience.
Thanks, I can try that if all else fails. I was using dúal mosfets for Picofly on previous installs up until now but I got some flex cables to make the overall job a bit faster but seems like it has just caused me unforeseen issues lol. Hopefully tomorrow I can get it sorted.
 
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hello, I have looked for an alternative point for the 3.3 v in v2, and I have only found in the nand, does anyone know of another that is not as complicated as the capacitor?
 
Hi everyone,
I bought a batch of RP2040 from Aliexpress. They looked similar to the original but a closer look revealed they have different markings, fonts and missing the Waveshare word, not surprised there. What surprises me is that the RGB/GRB jumper seems to be doing nothing. When I flash the fw in, green is what always comes on whether the RGB pads were jumped or not. Am I doing something wrong here? Or these RP2040s are not of enough quality.



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After some success with "No Sdcard", i got " *= CMD is not connected ", but i don't know why, if it's well connected.

On diode mode is giving me now 385, i know that's low, but was working before.

I tried changing the cable, soldering again and no success.

What can i do?
 

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Hi everyone,
I bought a batch of RP2040 from Aliexpress. They looked similar to the original but a closer look revealed they have different markings, fonts and missing the Waveshare word, not surprised there. What surprises me is that the RGB/GRB jumper seems to be doing nothing. When I flash the fw in, green is what always comes on whether the RGB pads were jumped or not. Am I doing something wrong here? Or these RP2040s are not of enough quality.


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Download the most up-to-date guide (located in my signature) and read the updated section on the new LED indicators.

Basically, colors became a nuisance, so Rehius switched to yellow flashes for debugging.
 
Hi everyone,
I bought a batch of RP2040 from Aliexpress. They looked similar to the original but a closer look revealed they have different markings, fonts and missing the Waveshare word, not surprised there. What surprises me is that the RGB/GRB jumper seems to be doing nothing. When I flash the fw in, green is what always comes on whether the RGB pads were jumped or not. Am I doing something wrong here? Or these RP2040s are not of enough quality.


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View attachment 374107
That is a yellow led after you flashed 2.73v, I believe any 2.7+ fw would do same yellow led flash. It is normal.

You could try flash nuke.uf2 then go for some lower version like 2.6 fw then you should see red or blue
 
Download the most up-to-date guide (located in my signature) and read the updated section on the new LED indicators.

Basically, colors became a nuisance, so Rehius switched to yellow flashes for debugging.
Thank you! This makes sense now. I guess I'll give it a try with an ealier fw version to see the difference.
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That is a yellow led after you flashed 2.73v, I believe any 2.7+ fw would do same yellow led flash. It is normal.

You could try flash nuke.uf2 then go for some lower version like 2.6 fw then you should see red or blue
Thank you! Apparently I'm confusing my colors.
"Nuke.uf2 then go for lower version like 2.6" not sure what you mean here? What version is nuke.uf2?
 
ruVAO1K.jpg

4oGZfDx.jpg

sylPyVe.jpg

V2.73 working flawlessly on Toshiba.
CtVAIBY.jpg

A couple of observations:
They switched over USBC interface but supplied doesn't fit on chip socket
Dat0 adapter supplied is crap but build chip quality is good

Just find this on aliexpress for core switch! :)
 

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Yeah I also suspect it's a problem with the flex cable installation. Tomorrow I'm going to solder a thicker wire from pins 3 AND 4 to the CPU point on the RP2040 and see if that makes a difference and if not I will take off the CPU shield and clean and reflow the solder joints on SP1 and SP2. Thanks for your response
I have a flex cable I have not yet installed and my DMM says Pins 3 and 4 are indeed connected somewhere on the cable. But no reason not to solder to both just to be on the safe side.
 

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