Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

abal1000x

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error is in ofw, nintendo logo, then black screen
Try to remove sdcard, is it still the same?

Try to check again, maybe theres cable short or something.
When the nintendo logo shows up especially when the joycon logo shows, its the time when the voltage change. So might be something disturb the voltage line.
 

detilmalala

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Try to remove sdcard, is it still the same?

Try to check again, maybe theres cable short or something.
When the nintendo logo shows up especially when the joycon logo shows, its the time when the voltage change. So might be something disturb the voltage line.
only the nintendo logo, the joy con does not appear
 
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abal1000x

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only the nintendo logo, the joy con does not appear
Yes i know, right after the nintendo, the joy con appear.
So it might be when the voltage try to go under, it failed.

It just one probability, the other probability is the data corrupted.
I think the most safe one is try to update the firmware.
Still remember the first time the firmware security unlocked, it have that bug.
I couldn't run the ofw, by vol+ vol- also couldnt from the hekate bottom right menu.
Only could run the ofw from the Warmboot Fix option in Launch menu inside hekate.
 

detilmalala

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Yes i know, right after the nintendo, the joy con appear.
So it might be when the voltage try to go under, it failed.

It just one probability, the other probability is the data corrupted.
I think the most safe one is try to update the firmware.
Still remember the first time the firmware security unlocked, it have that bug.
I couldn't run the ofw, by vol+ vol- also couldnt from the hekate bottom right menu.
Only could run the ofw from the Warmboot Fix option in Launch menu inside hekate.
i dont know what is warmboot, i search it
 
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SorataVP69

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First note for oled is do it very carefully, especially in clk and dat0.

I think its better to upgrade the firmware to 2.73 first. Be safe than sorry.
I temporarily installed another chip with the new firmware, it gives me this error, could it be an RTS error?
 

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LogicalMadness

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I don't know that, apart from reading the rating and general info available, but after some years of trying different ones you eventually end up with a brand you like.
But if you open up a 1yr old piece of equipment which has never been opened before and you see thermal paste hard as stone which crumbles like sand when you try to clean it then you know it was a sh*tty quality to begin with.
COUGH
PS3
COUGH
 

abal1000x

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I temporarily installed another chip with the new firmware, it gives me this error, could it be an RTS error?
Yes it is.

** RST is not connected

Basically the code detecting from the voltage.
code.png


Detect whether the RST is 1.6 - 2.0 Volt
 

LogicalMadness

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Okay thanks I will see if that helps. Although it has never failed to glitch it just takes 20+ seconds sometimes. Its very random. Sometimes it will take 2 seconds, sometimes around 10 seconds, and occasionally 20+ seconds.

I fully believe it's the flex cable
 

LogicalMadness

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FreeLander

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This has been previously discussed. As abal1000x said, caps smooth the signal. Although they seem to not matter in most of the cases it was suggested that if you play a game/app that has a high resource demand the APU might experience unexpected behavior due to these caps not being present.
I don't remember seeing any post where this happened, but then again, if it is an unexpected behavior that we are expecting how can we know what it was :D
Nice. Thank you. Out of curiosity, What's your preferred MOSFET installation method? Caps or no caps?
 

lightninjay

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Nice. Thank you. Out of curiosity, What's your preferred MOSFET installation method? Caps or no caps?
The vast majority of us prefer to leave the caps on. Removing the caps was moreso earlier in the experimentation process when we were deciding the most efficient positioning of MOSFET's.
 

FreeLander

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Yes, that is what i'm thinking. But I would still go with 2.73 since it has a way more advanced diagnistics. Or you could try 2.67 and then 2.73, up to you.
I agree. 2.7+ Diagnostics are a life savior. I did a V2 and was working fine, then it slipped out of my hand and was hit to the ground. Ever since it's been booting OFW. I checked the lights and it was ==*. I knew it was the G point wires because it's the most difficult for me to solder and was not happy with it. I resoldered it and now it's working fine.

In previous firmware it would have given me a blue light, I would have resoldered everything again.

This community is beyond supportive. It's amazing to be part of it going forward.
 

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abal1000x

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I don't know that, apart from reading the rating and general info available, but after some years of trying different ones you eventually end up with a brand you like.
But if you open up a 1yr old piece of equipment which has never been opened before and you see thermal paste hard as stone which crumbles like sand when you try to clean it then you know it was a sh*tty quality to begin with.
Thank you for the explanation.
Now i know for sure how to differentiate between good and bad paste.
show a close up shot where you solder cpu flex pin3,4 to rp2040-zero. My eye tells me you solder rst on pin25 and cpu on pin26
It seems you're right :mthr: I see the rst goes to the flex cable.
 
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