Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[cowboy619]

I did a nice bullshit, short story:

I installed the picofly chip by myself, I never did a single soldering in my life before, I'm stupid, that was the challenge.
By wanting to solder the 3.3v I damaged the point very much and I had to take the 3.3v on EMMC, everything worked very well I spent hours on games etc... and when I wanted to charge the console, nothing works, it no longer takes charge. And I could not put my switch on the TV too...the USB C Port was like dead.

Suddenly I immediately thought of the thing that I had smashed, I decided once again by my initiative of stupidity, I simply completely removed the part circled in red on the photo (it is not my photo, I would have been happy otherwise) I think it was in contact with the parts just above...

But now, surprise, the charging port is working perfectly again, everything is functional... so my question: Do you know what this thing was for? I must be worried about an overheating to come or a huge problem? Here is my question, otherwise I repeat everything is functional.

My Switch is the Mariko version.

Thanks in advance !

That is linked to p13 ic which controls output to the tv


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[impeeza]

hi guys, question, even if the nand of a switch is bricked, does the hekate charge the same?

yeah, that´s why you can use Hekate to install a blank bigger EMMC chip.

 

[Jorian]

That is linked to p13 ic which controls output to the tv


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, the Console works fine on my tv, so is not really important ? I should be safe ? Thanks a lot !

 

[QuiTim]

Ok, the Console works fine on my tv, so is not really important ? I should be safe ? Thanks a lot !

Well it's certainly better to have a component missing than to have a short. That part was there for a reason (maybe not a big reason) so lets hope it does not give you any trouble in the future.
But on the bright side, you can now give yourself a new challenge: -Order a replacement capacitor and solder it back-

 

[Jorian]

Well it's certainly better to have a component missing than to have a short. That part was there for a reason (maybe not a big reason) so lets hope it does not give you any trouble in the future.
But on the bright side, you can now give yourself a new challenge: -Order a replacement capacitor and solder it back-

Haha yes yes, I will do it, not now but maybe next week, how know wich capacitor I need ? I will check it and change it soon. Thanks for your answer !

 

[impeeza]

Haha yes yes, I will do it, not now but maybe next week, how know wich capacitor I need ? I will check it and change it soon. Thanks for your answer !

there is a thread here on gbatemp about parts of the switch board

 

[jkyoho]

I did a nice bullshit, short story:

I installed the picofly chip by myself, I never did a single soldering in my life before, I'm stupid, that was the challenge.
By wanting to solder the 3.3v I damaged the point very much and I had to take the 3.3v on EMMC, everything worked very well I spent hours on games etc... and when I wanted to charge the console, nothing works, it no longer takes charge. And I could not put my switch on the TV too...the USB C Port was like dead.

Suddenly I immediately thought of the thing that I had smashed, I decided once again by my initiative of stupidity, I simply completely removed the part circled in red on the photo (it is not my photo, I would have been happy otherwise) I think it was in contact with the parts just above...

But now, surprise, the charging port is working perfectly again, everything is functional... so my question: Do you know what this thing was for? I must be worried about an overheating to come or a huge problem? Here is my question, otherwise I repeat everything is functional.

My Switch is the Mariko version.

Thanks in advance !

1uf_0402_6.3V cap

 

[impeeza]

1uf_0402_6.3V cap

Thinking about a 1uf 6V cap, pictured my self a big :

capacitor popping out of the board.

 

[lightninjay]

Thinking about a 1uf 6V cap, pictured my self a big :
View attachment 371732
capacitor popping out of the board.

The valuable part about their naming is the 0402 SMD designator, but you already knew that ;P

 

[impeeza]

The valuable part about their naming is the 0402 SMD designator, but you already knew that ;P

yeah, but couldn't help myself thinking about the joke.

 

[jv_233]

A bit of new features in the test version 2.70

- now it's only 3 colours: blue (glitching), white (flashing), yellow (error code). This was made to make possible pi pico debugging + get rid of RGB/GRB issues
Error codes list (= is long pulse, * is short pulse):

= USB flashing done

** RST is not connected
*= CMD is not connected
=* D0 is not connected
== CLK is not connected

=** eMMC init failure during glitch process
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

=*** eMMC init failure
=**= eMMC write failure - comparison failed
=*=* eMMC write failure - write failed
=*== eMMC test failure - read failed
==** eMMC read failed during firmware update
==*= BCT copy failed - write failure
===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure
==== BCT copy failed - read failure

The second major feature is CPU downvoltage. This might be useful when your MOSFET (or the wire) is not strong enough for the glitch. (do you remember the case where you press "RESET" on the rp2040 when joycon logo appears to make it working? that's it, system lowers CPU voltage)
Therefore you can solder two additional wires to the chip so it could lower the CPU voltage making the glitch easier. This is optional! only if you really need.

Waveshare rp2040: SDA=12, SCL=13
Pi Pico: SDA = 19, SCL = 20
XIAO 2040: SDA=3, SCL=4
ItayBitsy 2040: SDA = 18, SCL = 19

pinout for Mariko v2 board:
View attachment 371698

I have pinouts for Lite & OLED, but haven't tested it yet. You can easily track the i2c wires by yourself using board views here http://balika011.hu/switch/ (OLED here)

The firmware is in alpha stage, so use at your own risk

Was the issue fix when you update sysnand ofw via online, and it reboots but instead of training and glitching into hekate, it will train and boot into ofw?

 

[angelC992]

A bit of new features in the test version 2.70

- now it's only 3 colours: blue (glitching), white (flashing), yellow (error code). This was made to make possible pi pico debugging + get rid of RGB/GRB issues
Error codes list (= is long pulse, * is short pulse):

= USB flashing done

** RST is not connected
*= CMD is not connected
=* D0 is not connected
== CLK is not connected

=** eMMC init failure during glitch process
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

=*** eMMC init failure
=**= eMMC write failure - comparison failed
=*=* eMMC write failure - write failed
=*== eMMC test failure - read failed
==** eMMC read failed during firmware update
==*= BCT copy failed - write failure
===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure
==== BCT copy failed - read failure

The second major feature is CPU downvoltage. This might be useful when your MOSFET (or the wire) is not strong enough for the glitch. (do you remember the case where you press "RESET" on the rp2040 when joycon logo appears to make it working? that's it, system lowers CPU voltage)
Therefore you can solder two additional wires to the chip so it could lower the CPU voltage making the glitch easier. This is optional! only if you really need.

Waveshare rp2040: SDA=12, SCL=13
Pi Pico: SDA = 19, SCL = 20
XIAO 2040: SDA=3, SCL=4
ItayBitsy 2040: SDA = 18, SCL = 19

pinout for Mariko v2 board:
View attachment 371698

I have pinouts for Lite & OLED, but haven't tested it yet. You can easily track the i2c wires by yourself using board views here http://balika011.hu/switch/ (OLED here)

The firmware is in alpha stage, so use at your own risk

So no color in succesfull glitch? Only White>Blue>Nothing (No SD card)?

 

[juanvlc]

So no color in succesfull glitch? Only White>Blue>Nothing (No SD card)?

yes, no green light anymore

 

[Takezo-San]

I did a nice bullshit, short story:

I installed the picofly chip by myself, I never did a single soldering in my life before, I'm stupid, that was the challenge.
By wanting to solder the 3.3v I damaged the point very much and I had to take the 3.3v on EMMC, everything worked very well I spent hours on games etc... and when I wanted to charge the console, nothing works, it no longer takes charge. And I could not put my switch on the TV too...the USB C Port was like dead.

Suddenly I immediately thought of the thing that I had smashed, I decided once again by my initiative of stupidity, I simply completely removed the part circled in red on the photo (it is not my photo, I would have been happy otherwise) I think it was in contact with the parts just above...

But now, surprise, the charging port is working perfectly again, everything is functional... so my question: Do you know what this thing was for? I must be worried about an overheating to come or a huge problem? Here is my question, otherwise I repeat everything is functional.

My Switch is the Mariko version.

Thanks in advance !

Funny thing is that was my pic I sent. Ruined that cap on the install. Though the switch worked. Lightninjay told me the cap value. Ordered some off ebay. Reinstalled it nice n clean. I didn't know what it was for but replacing it is always the wise thing to do because I'm just a technician and not the engineer. But happy to know what it actually is responsible for. Good stuff

 

[Dee87]

So no color in succesfull glitch? Only White>Blue>Nothing (No SD card)?

if u have no sd card in u will still get the no sd screen .

 

[Danook28]

1uf_0402_6.3V cap

Any link on aliexpress. I need that cap

 

[angelC992]

if u have no sd card in u will still get the no sd screen .

In my opinion, I prefer old system. But I'm not the developer so Rehius rules haha

 

[bilalhassan341]

In my opinion, I prefer old system. But I'm not the developer so Rehius rules haha

I also liked the old system But I think this is due to diff boards having diff lighting system which leads to these three colors for better error finding. Because there is lot of issues with light with diff boards. So, Rehius rules because he's the developer and know what is better to make Picofly more friendly.

 

[QuiTim]

I also liked the old system But I think this is due to diff boards having diff lighting system which leads to these three colors for better error finding. Because there is lot of issues with light with diff boards. So, Rehius rules because he's the developer and know what is better to make Picofly more friendly.

The old system was Rehius holding our hand and teaching us to walk but now that we can do that ourselves he is advancing the game.
As you said, with alot of different boards now able to execute this software the new system gives us a more advanced insight into potential installation issues and standardizes the troubleshooting procedures.

 

[bilalhassan341]

The old system was Rehius holding our hand and teaching us to walk but now that we can do that ourselves he is advancing the game.
As you said, with alot of different boards now able to execute this software the new system gives us a more advanced insight into potential installation issues and standardizes the troubleshooting procedures.

I also liked this new system because it has more error list to debug the actual situation while installing Picofly.