Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Darkspade]

i have the same problem, is safe this for ban?

I used Sysnand w/ CFW (your S/N is blocked) , only used nro daybreak to update.. don't install anything from sysnand w/cfw (nsp,xci,nsz)..
I used HATs pack for this.. Safe? (there is always risks when using a modded Console).. not sure if you an update in recovery mode easier.. I just did it this way

 

[Donnie-Burger]

I used Sysnand w/ CFW (your S/N is blocked) , only used nro daybreak to update.. don't install anything from sysnand w/cfw (nsp,xci,nsz)..
I used HATs pack for this.. Safe? (there is always risks when using a modded Console).. not sure if you an update in recovery mode easier.. I just did it this way

I use OFW thats clean to update since thats the point of dual boot for me, keep OFW safe. Can do anything an off the shelf switch can do. I also updated emummc with daybreak on one console and all good. Have not had a single issue with, sleep or ofw so I removed all usbc ports, buttons and 3v regulator on the zeros. Side note - They all glitch faster than hwfly's on average. Amazing work has been done here. Next is to try with mosfets since low on flex cables.

 

[Darkspade]

I use OFW thats clean to update since thats the point of dual boot for me, keep OFW safe. Can do anything an off the shelf switch can do. I also updated emummc with daybreak on one console and all good. Have not had a single issue with, sleep or ofw so I removed all usbc ports, buttons and 3v regulator on the zeros. Side note - They all glitch faster than hwfly's on average. Amazing work has been done here. Next is to try with mosfets since low on flex cables.

OFW was broken for me i couldn't boot into it without the help of atmos..

 

[lightninjay]

As mentioned earlier, I just did an install on a patched V1 Pokemon Let's Go edition console. The chip appears to show all the proper LED's (Blue, then white for eMMC write,then green for success. Subsequent boots just go from blue to green) but the console just boots like normal. Admittedly, I did rip the traces of the left capacitor when soldering the CPU mosfet, but managed to solder the mosfet to the right-side capacitor instead.

Any advice, or should I just try to recover and leave this switch unhacked? Thanks

 

[Darkspade]

As mentioned earlier, I just did an install on a patched V1 Pokemon Let's Go edition console. The chip appears to show all the proper LED's (Blue, then white for eMMC write,then green for success. Subsequent boots just go from blue to green) but the console just boots like normal. Admittedly, I did rip the traces of the left capacitor when soldering the CPU mosfet, but managed to solder the mosfet to the right-side capacitor instead.

Any advice, or should I just try to recover and leave this switch unhacked? Thanks

did you need to solder the RGB piont on the Chip?

 

[lightninjay]

did you need to solder the RGB piont on the Chip?

Yes, I had to solder the RGB jumper in order to get the LED to flash red when the firmware was loaded to it via USB

 

[Dandan0404]

I removed all usbc ports, buttons and 3v regulator

Can you circle which part is the 3v regulator and is it important? Im sure to remove usbc and buttons but i dont know about 3v regulator

 

[impeeza]

Can you circle which part is the 3v regulator and is it important? Im sure to remove usbc and buttons but i dont know about 3v regulator

The 3V3 regulator allows you to use the chip from USB voltage, converts 5V from USB or the 22 pin to 3V3 required by the chip, once you remove it you CAN NOT connect again to USB because there is no level shift.

1. USB Type-C connector
2. W25Q16JVUXIQ
   2MB NOR-Flash
3. BOOT button
   press it when resetting to enter download mode
4. RESET button
5. WS2812
   cool RGB LED
6. ME621 THIS IS THE 3V3 LEVEL SHIFTER.
   low dropout LDO, max current 800MA
7. RP2040
   dual-core processor, up to 133MHz operating frequency
8. RP2040 pins
   10x solder points, 9 of which are for GPIO

Source:
https://www.waveshare.com/rp2040-zero.htm

 

[Dandan0404]

The 3V3 regulator allows you to use the chip from USB voltage, converts 5V from USB or the 22 pint to 3V3 required by the chip, once you remove it you CAN NOT connect again to USB because there is no level shift.

1. USB Type-C connector
2. W25Q16JVUXIQ
   2MB NOR-Flash
3. BOOT button
   press it when resetting to enter download mode
4. RESET button
5. WS2812
   cool RGB LED
6. ME621 THIS IS THE 3V3 LEVEL SHIFTER.
   low dropout LDO, max current 800MA
7. RP2040
   dual-core processor, up to 133MHz operating frequency
8. RP2040 pins
   10x solder points, 9 of which are for GPIO

Source:
https://www.waveshare.com/rp2040-zero.htm

Last question, i have an OLED, after removing usb c and buttons ( probably regulator) does it fit on the back without cutting bulging anything? Anyone know the best spot/placement?

 

[impeeza]

Last question, i have an OLED, after removing usb c and buttons ( probably regulator) does it fit on the back without cutting bulging anything? Anyone know the best spot/placement?

as far I has seen on the important post may be that is correct.

 

[Donnie-Burger]

Last question, i have an OLED, after removing usb c and buttons ( probably regulator) does it fit on the back without cutting bulging anything? Anyone know the best spot/placement?

Kapton tape over chip once all tests are good to avoid any shorts. Cut kapton tap a little smaller to not cover wifi connection. No bulge. I re-routed reset wire around coil to not cover bq and get smashed by thermal pad.

 

[lightninjay]

Just an update, I went ahead and put in my 2nd rp2040 board after programming it and confirming the LED was the proper color after USB flash.

After installing it, the LED was showing CYAN rather than GREEN. I asked my GF to look at the first one and she confirmed it looked green, but this new one was definitely cyan. After seeing that, I went back over all my soldering joints concerning the MOSFET and CPU pins.

I am now currently able to boot to Hekate and am performing an eMMC nand backup. Strangely, it seems to have a 50/50 shot at whether Hekate IPL is loaded or not, but I have not shortened the wires and permanently installed it yet.

At any rate, I can't be upset about having to reboot one time to get into Hekate from OFW.

LET'S GO, PICOFLY FOR THE WIN!

 

[dkabot]

After some successful boots, subsequent failure (as a consequence of the horrible hack to the chip), switching to a -ZERO like we should've started with, a further amount of successful boots, and now further subsequent failure... Any ideas?
It blinks orange (D0) currently, and boots without the chip.

 

[d.b]

does anyone know if cpu flex v2 from lite will work on oled?

 

[Dee87]

Just an update, I went ahead and put in my 2nd rp2040 board after programming it and confirming the LED was the proper color after USB flash.

After installing it, the LED was showing CYAN rather than GREEN. I asked my GF to look at the first one and she confirmed it looked green, but this new one was definitely cyan. After seeing that, I went back over all my soldering joints concerning the MOSFET and CPU pins.

I am now currently able to boot to Hekate and am performing an eMMC nand backup. Strangely, it seems to have a 50/50 shot at whether Hekate IPL is loaded or not, but I have not shortened the wires and permanently installed it yet.

At any rate, I can't be upset about having to reboot one time to get into Hekate from OFW.

LET'S GO, PICOFLY FOR THE WIN!

On the board with the 50/50 rate u need to install a second mosfet , check the aio picofly. Thread last pages there's a picture where u need to install it on Marino board

 

[Donnie-Burger]

does anyone know if cpu flex v2 from lite will work on oled?

All mariko cables work on all models.

v2, lite, oled cables all work on each other.

 

[lightninjay]

On the board with the 50/50 rate u need to install a second mosfet , check the aio picofly. Three last pages there's a picture where u need to install it on Marino board

Appreciate the comment, but this is also what I feared... I think you may have missed my earlier post about how I accidentally ripped the pads of the second mosfet position, so I am basically doomed to a single mosfet setup.

 

[Dee87]

Appreciate the comment, but this is also what I feared... I think you may have missed my earlier post about how I accidentally ripped the pads of the second mosfet position, so I am basically doomed to a single mosfet setup.

what u mean u ripped of a solder pad on the Apu Xd lets see a picture

Post automatically merged: Apr 3, 2023

Just an update, I went ahead and put in my 2nd rp2040 board after programming it and confirming the LED was the proper color after USB flash.

After installing it, the LED was showing CYAN rather than GREEN. I asked my GF to look at the first one and she confirmed it looked green, but this new one was definitely cyan. After seeing that, I went back over all my soldering joints concerning the MOSFET and CPU pins.

I am now currently able to boot to Hekate and am performing an eMMC nand backup. Strangely, it seems to have a 50/50 shot at whether Hekate IPL is loaded or not, but I have not shortened the wires and permanently installed it yet.

At any rate, I can't be upset about having to reboot one time to get into Hekate from OFW.

LET'S GO, PICOFLY FOR THE WIN!

the one that boots sometimes with cyan if u put a second mosfet there it will always boot to hekate.

lets see a picture of the first one with ripped of pads.please

 

[juanvlc]

View attachment 362824
Kapton tape over chip once all tests are good to avoid any shorts. Cut kapton tap a little smaller to not cover wifi connection. No bulge. I re-routed reset wire around coil to not cover bq and get smashed by thermal pad.

Sorry mate, with this configuration, are you able to close everything well w/o trim the back metal shield?
Regards

 

[Donnie-Burger]

Sorry mate, with this configuration, are you able to close everything well w/o trim the back metal shield?
Regards

Yeah with kapton tape covering chip so nothing shorts and tape also holds it in place. Wifi cable can be tricky to connect, you can route wires better but you get the idea. Can also put resistors facing inward and route cables that way or flip chip and wire other side but I wouldnt pinch any cables under heatsink/pipe like some do, simply route them around shit.