Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[KeeperCP1]

Is there any reasons to put a modchip on an unpatched switch like mine instead of using a jig or AutoRCM?

 

[danwellby]

Is there any reasons to put a modchip on an unpatched switch like mine instead of using a jig or AutoRCM?

Not a hwfly/picofly but a rcmx86 or a trinket would be good thing to install if you want auto injections (and much easier to install)

I should update and install the rcm-x86 I got years ago sometime once I get the oled done out of principle

 

[Mr Skinner]

A Thank You Post! @abal1000x @Takezo-San @Danook28 @QuiTim

A couple of months ago, I thought I had burned out my brand new Switch. I even saw pseudo smoke in the midst of chaos (I don't even think it ever existed, just the soldering iron), but I received recommendations not to give up, and I really acquired some knowledge, I followed the tips and realized that my Black screen could just be a disconnected clk track, and it really was. There were tense moments, I had never done such a small one under a microscope, but luckily I did it, thank God.

Here are the photos of the drama, I made a bridge according to @jkyoko 's recommendation, and with previous experience of the switch lite case. The real cause of the black screen was the lack of communication between the Switch processor (NVIDIA) and the EMMC, thanks to the island being formidably toasted by a soldering iron used to scrape the dot.

- From left for right:
• Day 0: Switch does not boot, no apparent reason for error. I suspect the low quality Dat0 flex cable from Aliexpress. The reading of the CLK point ( image1), shows a reading of 0.700v in diode mode
• Day:62: I suspect (based on the tip I received @jkyoko and previous experience with my lite switch, that the CLK could be disconnected. In fact it was, The smaller dot reads 1050v (for emmc) and 0.700v (for the Processor).
• Day64: I made a long bridge, using 0.01 wire with lots of flux and solder paste. I managed to read the spot with the solder. Console Boots normally, and remains unlocked now.

I want to leave a recommendation for use. Do not use the soldering iron to scrape the island of the OLED clk. there is this product, a weak acid, that is proper to eliminate the resin. A micro drop, using a toothpick, and you can remove just the spot, without heating and risking the damage I caused:

 

[chronoss]

my 1st picofly but looks a bit messy but it works nonetheless. thank you all. maybe i will try oled for another day.

What's this blue liquid ?

 

[Razorbacktrack]

What's this blue liquid ?

UV Solder Mask

 

[twins333]

my 1st picofly but looks a bit messy but it works nonetheless. thank you all. maybe i will try oled for another day.

first of all, congratulations! looks pretty neat and tidy. And the back mosfet is really nice.

note: I see you used 47ohm resistors for the picofly. I belive some of the people here prefer using 100ohm ones since they give more consistent glitching and avoid some future problems. I can't remember exactly but you can check for the explanation a few pages back.

 

[deeps]

first of all, congratulations! looks pretty neat and tidy. And the back mosfet is really nice.

note: I see you used 47ohm resistors for the picofly. I belive some of the people here prefer using 100ohm ones since they give more consistent glitching and avoid some future problems. I can't remember exactly but you can check for the explanation a few pages back.

It's more that 47 ohm isn't always enough to prevent the electrical noise from the rp2040 from interfering with the cpu-emmc communication and therefore makes ofw unbootable and/or unreliable. 100 ohm prevents such issues and has no drawbacks.

 

[VictorT]

I'm sure it's somewhere in these 600 pages but I don't know where to start. I had a working install going (no sd card displayed) but I snapped the 3.3v wire while neatening the wires up (with uv mask) and I accidentally dumped too much solder on the area around the 3.3v line (I was already using a different ground point so it was the only wire in the area)

Does anyone have a list of these resistors? I have a feeling they're going to come off when I try to clean it up. Other that thanks for all the advice I've read so far in this thread. I used a waveshare Tiny and it booted great without having to take off anything.

 

[Hassal]

if you removed the Emmc and soldered CMD, CLK, and DAT0 all at once, and combined that with the back MOSFET method. This means you won't even touch the APU. wouldn't you say this actually saves time?

You still need an adapter for that how else you're going to pull those lines?

Post automatically merged: Jul 26, 2023

my 1st picofly but looks a bit messy but it works nonetheless. thank you all. maybe i will try oled for another day.

You sure these lines are not shorted?

 

[jkyoho]

I'm sure it's somewhere in these 600 pages but I don't know where to start. I had a working install going (no sd card displayed) but I snapped the 3.3v wire while neatening the wires up (with uv mask) and I accidentally dumped too much solder on the area around the 3.3v line (I was already using a different ground point so it was the only wire in the area)

Does anyone have a list of these resistors? I have a feeling they're going to come off when I try to clean it up. Other that thanks for all the advice I've read so far in this thread. I used a waveshare Tiny and it booted great without having to take off anything.

list from top to bottom pin5 big cap:

10k ohm_0201
100k ohm_0201
10nf_0201_6.3v
100k ohm_0201
4.7uF_0402_6.3v

 

[roxzii]

Hey guys, back again. About my previous problem of only being able to use UMS-Loader, I went back and looked at the whole thing closer.
Since only that payload was able to run and that kinda points to a RAM issue, might this be the f-up I've been looking for?

Those 3 lines by the big ground from where the shield was look lightly scratched, with the middle one looking worse, actual trace showing I think.

EDIT: Hey, @Dee87 , mind if I ask for some input? Still trying to get to the error I made.

 

[VictorT]

list from top to bottom pin5 big cap:

10k ohm_0201
100k ohm_0201
10nf_0201_6.3v
100k ohm_0201
4.7uF_0402_6.3v

Awesome, thank you for the quick response! 0201 imperial / 0603 metric (correct?) So tiny but that's great I have those already. I am gonna have to order the big cap though 0402 (imp correct? so 1005 metric?) . I'll make sure to take glamour shots when I get it finished.

edit: i usually use metric, I assume you're using imperial?

 

[superxoi]

You still need an adapter for that how else you're going to pull those lines?

Post automatically merged: Jul 26, 2023

You sure these lines are not shorted?

it's not bro. i checked them on in diode mode before plugging the battery.

Post automatically merged: Jul 27, 2023

What's this blue liquid ?

it's solder mask bro.

Post automatically merged: Jul 27, 2023

first of all, congratulations! looks pretty neat and tidy. And the back mosfet is really nice.

note: I see you used 47ohm resistors for the picofly. I belive some of the people here prefer using 100ohm ones since they give more consistent glitching and avoid some future problems. I can't remember exactly but you can check for the explanation a few pages back.

thank you. i will add another 47 ohm later.

 

[NooBziN]

So my WS2812B-2020's came in finally, and I got a chance to crack open my right joycon to finish the LED mod. It works grand! Currently putting @abal1000x's rear-mounted Mosfet diagrams and @vulp_vibes LED mod diagrams in the next revision of the guide. Should be dropping it here in just a few, just wanted to share a few sneak peek photos and the video proof the working Joycon LED mod.

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[mesclagem automática]1690267349[/automerge]
Update V.6.3 to the Definitive Guide is now live.

joy con drift problem is complicated for you to have free repair by nintendo this automatically voids the warranty

 

[lightninjay]

joy con drift problem is complicated for you to have free repair by nintendo this automatically voids the warranty

I have not experienced any issues with this joycon, and it is my own personal switch that I bought off Ebay, so I am not concerned about Ninty's little warranty, I do my own console repairs.

 

[jkyoho]

Awesome, thank you for the quick response! 0201 imperial / 0603 metric (correct?) So tiny but that's great I have those already. I am gonna have to order the big cap though 0402 (imp correct? so 1005 metric?) . I'll make sure to take glamour shots when I get it finished.

edit: i usually use metric, I assume you're using imperial?

YES, imperial is standard in my region.

 

[cgtchy0412]

Hi guys, i plan to do an emmc reball, can i use .35 ball instead of .30 ? as i see my emmc chip is becoming a little concave so it should needs higher solder ball?
Any thought?

 

[TheBad]

Your problem is the famous black screen.

Hi guys, i plan to do an emmc reball, can i use .35 ball instead of .30 ? as i see my emmc chip is becoming a little concave so it should needs higher solder ball?
Any thought?

Is it bent?

 

[cgtchy0412]

Is it bent?

Yes, only a little, but still.

 

[TheBad]

Yes, only a little, but still.

To much heat I guess. I hope it still works...